I'm chiming in late, so I hope you see this. First, congratulations on your new house. Second, if you bought the house in autumn, and one hydrangea's flowers were starting to brown, that's exactly what it should have been doing in autumn. My guess is that the brownish one is the healthier of the 2. It probably flowered on time in the summer while the one in shade flowered late. That's why the one in shade was still blue in fall. You're probably not going to love my advice because I can tell you're itching to get out there and fix that yard, but I'm going to suggest that you wait. See what your plants do this year. Learn what the sun does in your yard throughout the season and adjust your plan accordingly. You may find that although overgrown, some plants are in exactly the rght spots. You can transplant the ones that did not do well in fall or next spring. Plants can do fine with a transplant. Plants will not do so well with several transplants. So learn what you've got before digging. Good luck.

Thanks morz8. Yes, I understand that they take awhile to establish. I think I will try to get a photo and see if anyone thinks I should shape it. I am happy to know I don't need to prune it but it is looking pretty ugly right now and after I thought about it awhile, I was thinking it might need some shaping to get a better start. I will try to come back with a photo this week. Thanks :-)

Given that your are under the IRC the solution to your problem is fairly easy. in your original post you stated that you want to move your sink about 15" to one side of where the existing sink is. You didn't state whether you were moving to the right or the left, but then that really doesn't matter anyway, except for the sake of illustration allow me to say we are moving to the right. If you are in fact moving to the left the procedure will be the same but in the opposite direction. We can use the simple triangle formula which states that the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle is equal to the square root of Side A squared plus side B squared. We are moving 15" horizontal along the wall from the existing fixture arm, so let us say "Side A" =15" and the center of the drain is approximately 12" forward from the wall so let us say "Side B"=12". L= the square root of (A squared + B squared) Where A = 15" and B= 12" L = the square root of (15 x 15 + 12 x 12) L= the square root of 225 + 144 L= the square root of 369 L=19.2" If we were certain that there is a vent behind the wall in the manner that i showed in the previous illustration this short length would be of no consequence, however since we don't know whether that vent exists we must then presume that the fixture arm in the wall may turn horizontal and run a short distance to the vent stack. Understanding that the codes are very specific in regards to the maximum length of the fixture arm from the trap weir to the vent we must then assume that an additional 19" could extend us beyond the allowable limit. Fortunately you are under the IRC, which allows us to use an AAV and no one will ever fault your for having additional venting so we may proceed without opening the wall. You stated that the existing fixture arm exits the wall, then turns down and back up. That in itself is a code violation for two reasons. 1. dropping down then back up creates a trap and the codes prohibit have two successive traps in series. 2. There must be an even 1/4" per foot downward slope from the trap weir to the vent. I would begin by cutting the existing fixture arm about 1-1/2" from the wall then attach the discharge end of a Wye on the fixture arm with the side opening of the Wye pointing in the direction of your new trap location. One the end of the Wye I would install a female thread adapter and a cleanout cap. i would then install a 1/16 street bend in the side opening of the Wye. (NOTE- A 1/16th street bend is a 22.5 degree sanitary elbow that has a female hub on one end and a male spigot on the other end.) Next cut about a 2" or 3" section of sched.40 PVC and insert one end into the hub on the 1/16th street bend. Position this Wye with the side opening pointing up and install a 18th street bend in the side opening of the second Wye.(The side opening of a Wye comes off at 45deg. adding the 1/8th street bend will then complete the 90deg upward turn. (Note-you must use a wye & 1/8 bend here because the code prohibits a Tee on a horizontal line.) Cut another 2" length of sched.40 PVC and insert it in the top of the 1/8th bend, then install a female thread adapter on the top end of that PVC nipple. You can now screw an AAV into that thread adapter. NOTE-With the Wye, 1/8th bend, PVC nipple and the thread adapter you should easily have the required 4" from the top of the fixture arm to the base of the AAV.) Now connect your trap to the sink tailpiece and direct the tailpiece of the trap towards your new fixture arm. You can then compute the final length from the opening of the second Wye to the position where your new Trap adapter will be. (When all is said and done, you may need to cut a bit off the end of the trap tailpiece. that is ok)

Thank you for the advice! The leaves are not wilting, its the blooms that are turning brown. I keep running into big healthy hydrangea plants all over town that are out in the middle of sun, no chance of shade and they are fabulous! I don't know why mine are having such a hard time. I wonder if it is the Endless Summer variety? My Annabelle is HUGE full of blooms with no sensitivity to sun. All planted on the same day. Is it because it is their first year and they will be more established next year?