Jeld-Wen Siteline Auralast vs Windsor Pinnacle: Large Window Arrays
Marc Helman
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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millworkman
6 years ago
Marc Helman
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Need Help With Windows For New Home
Comments (13)Swampwiz- Thanks so much for the info on Monarch. Will check them out. Energy rater la- Thanks again. A couple more questions if you don't mind. My DH and I had our apppointment with the building supply co that carries Windsor in our area yesterday. After seeing the windows & hearing the info on all 3 lines, the aluminum clad with wood interior & GBG sounds like the way to go for us if we do Windsor. They also had some Andersen displays in vinyl with wood interior. This is probably one of the very few vinyl exterior windows that I liked. What are your thoughts on Andersen? They recommended the 200 series & I brought up the 400 series. (Haven't done alot of research on Andersen--name is popular but just about everyone we've talked to has volunteered the info to stay away from Andersen without us even asking.) As far as the white vinyl clad wood windows vs. white aluminum clad wood windows, have you seen or heard of yellowing, sagging or warping at the level of quality we are using? The wood on the interior will be painted white as well. I plan on this being the last house (we're in our 30's) and I really want to minimize the chance that we will have to replace windows during that time. Lastly, hoping you could clarify something for me: low e2 is high solar gain (use in predominately cold climates), low e3 is moderate solar gain (use in climates that are pretty equal with hot & cold months), and low e4 is low solar gain (use in hot climates)-I know I probably have 2&4 mixed up, please correct me if I do. Considering that the front of our house (formal living room & dining room & kids rooms) faces south, rear (family room & kitchen & bonus) faces north, master and garage faces west and outlaw suite faces east, should I use a variety of low e2 & e3 or would you just triple pane the north & maybe west sides? (Keeping in mind that the rear of the house has a 16' covered porch & is almost completely windows on both levels to take advantage of the awesome views & the front of the house also has a 10'covered porch). Thanks again for all your help! Mythreesons- Our Pella Arch quote was $55K for SDL, $43K for GBG with similar # of windows. Jeld-Wen was $44K SDL & $37K GBG. We're waiting on the quote from Windsor. None of our quotes included the front door system either, but they did include 2 sets of double operating aluminum clad french doors & 1 single aluminum clad french door. We're building in northern Randolph county about an hour or so from Charlotte. We plan to break ground as soon as another property we own sells (know anyone interested in 46 acres in central NC?). I'm excited but I'm also scared to death! If you see the owner of the house like mine, please ask about the windows. If you wouldn't mind, would you please let him know I'd love to talk with him about any changes he made to the original floor plan and what he has found works really well about the house & what he would change. My email is lroberts72@triad.rr.com. Thanks for offering to talk with him if you see him! Anyone else out there with opinions on windows, please post. Thanks!...See MoreAthensmom/others - Lincoln windows questions
Comments (37)We looked at many of these brands as well. Our price for Pella Architect Series double hung vs. Windsor Pinnacle Clad were virtually identical. Windsor was able to show me their extruded aluminum which looked solid. When I mentioned this difference to the Pella guy, he told me Pella is far superior and that extruded aluminum is really just a fancy marketing phrase used by the competition. However, he couldn't demonstrate the superiority of the product, so in the end we are planning to go with the Windsor. We priced Anderson - it was a bit less than the Windsor / Pella quote. I was not sure about the Anderson product as it doesn't seem to be aluminum at all (but maybe I just misread). Some things that had a big effect on the price (which I didn't previously think about): 1.) Number of lites --- the more you have, the more expensive the price 2.) Hardware -- ORB can drive up the price a bunch. 3.) Anything tempered costs more, so windows close to doors cost more to pass code. 4.) Colored cladding --- I wanted ivory vs. white white --- this is a 2-3% upcharge for Pella --- standard pricing for Windsor. 5.) Screens --- obviously, if you have them, they cost more I played with my quote quite a bit, and fine tuned it --- I was able to save a lot of money by taking screens out of places like the garage, or hidden windows. I used ORB hardware everywhere except attic windows and garage -- this saved me some money. I fixed (made non-operable) some of the windows where appropriate and finally, I am using Emtek hardware made for Windsor vs. Windsor hardware (this will be seamless to me as Windsor handles it), but it saves me several thousand dollars. I am sure I have been a pain to the Windsor guy, changing and changing to try to save some money, but the savings have been worth it to me as I am getting lots more included for much less now. He has been very helpful in working with me (in Charlotte). Anyway, my point is, whichever window line you choose, you can probably find some efficiencies if you spend the time going through the quote. Thanks for all of the great info above! Rachel...See Morerain and wood windows
Comments (6)Hi, I have been entrenched in the window industry and I have definately had my share of questions like this before. I'll try to stick to the facts only, and then let you decide what you believe to be best. 1) Pine will warp just as bad as fir, or as little as fir, their is no difference. The major difference between fir and pine, as kec01 said, is the staining. Fir is definately a "prettier" wood and will stain up much nicer than the pine. That being said, their are two different types of grain you will find in fir windows, flat grain and edge grain. Flat grain occurs when the wood is cut parallel to the grain, you end up with a large "flat" grain pattern. Edge grain occurs when you cut the wood perpendicular to the grain which shows off the "edge" of the grain. Edge grain wood is more expensive and more desirable. If you are going to stain the windows then edge grain fir is definately the best choice. If you are going to paint the windows, pine would be the best choice as it is less expensive, and you are going to end up covering the grain anyways. 2) your window guy made a comment about how his windows are "TDL" This would be relating to the glass in the window. His windows are True Divided. This means that in a window with wood grilles you could potentially have 9 seperate pieces of glass in each window. TDL windows are outdated and as far as energy efficiency goes are not nearly as efficient as Simulated Divided Lites. SDL windows are constructed to look like a TDL window but use one large piece of glass with a "shadow bar" inbetween the two panes and an external wood or metal grille. Esthetically you can not tell the difference between the two windows, but you can tell the difference when looking at U values and Solar Heat Gain numbers. 3) Issues with Double Hung Windows. Double Hung windows will definately not be as efficient as a casement window, and they do not have the same ratings as a casement window either. In Canada the rating for windows are governed by the CSA - A440. This is a testing standard that major window manufactures test to. There are three ratings, A,B,C, highest value for A is 3, B is 7, C is 5. The higher the number, the better the window. A is Air Infiltration, B is Water Penetration and C is Wind Load (DP rating in the states). Traditionally a well constructed double hung window will rate at an A2, B2, C2, a well constructed casement will rate as an A3, B5, C4, smaller casements will rate at the max, A3, B7, C5. 4) Pine windows in the rain. All wood rots, it's a constant problem in the market place. JELD-WEN has created a treatment for their pine windows that allows them to warranty the windows for 20 years against any rot or termite infestation. The treatment is called Aurolast, and has recieved a ton of commendations and awards in the industry. On top of the 20 year warranty on the wood, JW will warranty their Custom Wood windows for 20 years against sealed unit failure, 20 years on the hardware, and 20 years against manufacturer defect, it is trully the best warranty in the business. If you do not want to use pine, they also produce the window with edge grain fir, mahoganny or knotty alder. I live in southwestern BC (think of Seattle but north of the border) and these windows are awesome up here, I definatley believe that the JELD-WEN Custom Wood windows would be your best bet. if you go to www.jeld-wen.com and view their custom wood window section you can get a great feel for the product. I hope this helps....See MoreWe need help in choosing Windows in new construction
Comments (53)So, your double pane U-Factor appears to be a 0.27. Good, but what about that "will add thermal performance that far exceeds the vinyl options". I am quoting you directly from above about 6 posts ago. There are more than a handful of vinyl windows that will best that thermal performance in the case of double pane and more than a handful that equal or best the thermal performance numbers that you show in triple pane. To be certain, 0.15 is a good U-Factor, but it is only equivalent in this case to just the handful of vinyl windows that I know of personally not to mention the more exotics that are designed solely around performance. I do love nice wood windows, but to claim they are more efficient because of the wood is sketchy science to put it mildly....See Moremillworkman
6 years agoOK, you did not mention the Integrity line earlier that was what was throughing me for the loop. Essentially what you have is this setup (but 5 wide) and in a wood window?
millworkman
6 years agoMarc Helman
6 years agoMarc Helman
6 years ago
PROWindsor Windows & Doors
6 years ago
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