i have 4 different ones.. as far as i am concerned.. it was frost/freeze damage ... but they hung on and struggled to bud out .. until that intense heat wave and drought hit ... the rest of the plant looks OK.. doesnt it ... ruling out a root problem ... and disease really isnt selective to certain branches.. i have been contemplating such for weeks.. as i watched it happen.. but i cant really say any other thing could have done it ... with your old wood there.. i surmise you dont cut it to the ground.. and neither do it.. but i am pretty sure.. some peeps here do do that ... especially warmer zone peeps ... so i wonder.. had we cut it to the ground.. would we be having this issue now ... probably not.. if i am anywhere close to being right ... thats my theory.. and i am sticking with it ... ken

I think they might still be recovering from the sunburn. I sunburned a bunch of plants last year, and after I picked off the white crispy leaves, the remaining leaves got that same dark color with the same slight transparency. This is just the opinion of an inexperienced gardener, but most of the time it's impossible to tell what's actually wrong with a plant-- unless you can see bugs crawling on the leaves, or something like that, you're pretty much guessing. Then you start adding phosphorous, messing with pH, spraying with insecticide, or overwatering, and stress the plant worse. It seems like most of the time the plant recovers on its own-- so my approach would be to keep checking on them and looking for changes, but not to do anything drastic yet. As for the watering, there is some flexibility here, I think. Last year I watered my garden twice all season, and I still got tomatoes every day. With overwatering, the issue is that the roots need oxygen. When you water, the dirt squishes together and fills in the little air holes, and the roots can suffocate. This is probably less of an issue in the ground than in a pot, because the roots are more spread out, and go deeper, so they probably have some oxygen even after it rains or you water. It's also probably less of an issue in soil with large particles (wood chips, rocks) because the large particles prevent the soil from compacting as much. (Think about a cup of slivered almonds, how there's little air in between the pieces, and a cup of walnuts-- the large, irregular pieces don't fit together, so air gets stuck in between.) Taking a look at your soil might help you determine how careful you need to be. If your soil tends to pack together, you need to be careful. If it looks loose even after you water, it may not be as crucial. As a general guideline, I would recommend waiting until the soil feels DRY an inch or two down before you water. (Especially this early in the season-- when it's really hot, you may want to water more often, because it may seem like the water starts drying up in the hot sun immediately after you water). Remember that tomato roots will go deep, and find wet dirt deep under the soil, so even when the top inches feel dry, the tomatoes may be well hydrated. Happy gardening!! :-)

There is a bypass pipe from the supply to the return on this basement radiator. Apparently the water is whistling by the supply. Are there "Mono-flow" fittings on the supply and return to this register? A monoflow tee fitting has a sorts scoop that catches the water and forces it down to your radiator. You need one on both the supply and return. They have to be oriented correctly on both the supply and return. Water, like electricity, will take the path of least resistance.

Do you have reduced pressure on both hot and cold, or just one of them? Check the screens on your faucets. Sometimes work on the pipes disturbs sediment in the pipes and it collects in the screens on the ends of the faucets. Be sure you hooked up to the hot and cold sides of the hot water tank properly. There is a little ball in the hot side that prevents water from flowing backwards, if they are reversed. Did you solder the fittings too close to the tank, while they were on the tank? There is plastic inside the tank fittings and it will melt and block the pipe if it gets too hot. Is the shut-off valve before the meter wide open? When you have all your taps closed, does the meter stop? If it doesn't, this could indicate a leak someplace. Buy a pressure guage that screws onto any of your faucets and see what the pressure really is. They are only about $7 at any hardware store. Just a few thoughts off the top of my head.