I think I have a plan worked out where I can use the Mayflower tub in a corner installation, without the extra side enclosed alcove style. The existing situation is a small back-to back full bath/powder room set up where the powder room was jerry rigged into a three quarter that is not code compliant I don't think. The plan is to redo both baths but there is no way to expand (at least in one direction) so gaining space for the 3/4 involves stealing a few inches from the full bath. This tub provides the answer, I think, and it would be appropriate because it's a mid-century house. Not being able to add a flange actually made me look at both bathrooms differently.

I just went through this exact thing. Three wall aclove, 60x32. My order of preference was 1) integral tile flange 2)factory installed and 3) field installed. Obviously the integral will have no chance of seperating or leaking since it's integrated intot he tub. The only difference between the factory applied and field applied is that the factory one is done in a controlled environment. From talking to Kohler, they use the same 3M double sided adhesive tape. In terms of the skirt, integral skirt will have no chance of coming lose later on. Seperate acrylic skirt may come lose I might think. I have no idea. There would also be a seam which could collect crud. I decided for looks that I would tile the front. So after all is said and done, I only found a limited number of tubs that have an integral flange and didn't have a skirt. I ended up getting the Kohler Hourglass (K-1219). I believe the other manufacturers that had options were Alcove Ficus and Mirolin Azzura Amalfi. I haven't installed it yet.

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

Great pictures you've linked to. If you want to post them here, this is how I do it. If there is an "embed" button available click it and a box will come up with large file option or a small file option. I always take the large file option cause I love pictures :) click on the text in the large file and the text will turn blue. Copy this text. Paste the text in this message box on GW. Simple. Sometimes I can't find an "embed" button, so on my Mac, I two finger click on the image and the box comes up. I am really partial to the this soft blue in both of the post that I copied from your link. I prefer ceramic over glass, but that is a minor point. Glass is more modern to me. [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by Austin General Contractors Greenbelt Homes This one is very nice, calm, and a safe bet. It is a bath anyone would like. Do you see how the counters don't compete with the tile? I like that. You can use solid surface or natural stone on the counters. If you went with the blue ceramic (my fav) something like this vein cut tile might look pretty on the floor. If this is natural limestone, you have to be very careful with colors. Sometimes limestones can look pink. Also with a natural stone, the sample board that one sees in the shop may look different than the actual stone that comes in the order. There have been multiple complaints on the forum about that too. [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by San Francisco Architects & Designers Mike Connell This is my favorite of these two blues you've posted. I love glazes on ceramic that look like watercolor. How much area are you covering. This looks fabulous on this wall, but to be honest I'm not sold on the floor they used. And I don't like the carrara counter top with the tile. I am thinking a thassos white marble would be nicer to help keep the focus on the glaze of the tile and the pretty wood vainer. But as I look more I do like the carrara used as the jambs around the door and shower a lot. So maybe its the wood that is throwing the scheme off for me. I love the wood, but maybe it would be better used in another room. [Contemporary Bathroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-bathroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_712~s_2103) by San Francisco Architects & Designers Sutro Architects