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Acrylic tub tile flanges - which is best?

15 years ago

We are considering two different acrylic soaker tubs for a bathroom remodel. I now understand that one (the Maax Topaz in a 60x36 size) comes with an optional "field installed" tile flange. The other, a Jason, has a factory-installed flange. I have no idea which is better or if it matters -- does it? One tile installer today told me he finds the factory installed flanges vastly better and dislikes the field installed ones.

The tub is replacing an existing one in an "alcove" installation (3 walls tiled). One tub has a separate (added on the job site I assume -- not sure how they attach?) skirt and one has an integral skirt. Which is better in terms of function and/or looks if we want a skirted effect? And what would have to be done in terms of installing the tub in order to be able to tile the skirt area instead of using an acrylic skirt? I assume there would have to be some sort of framing so the front could be tiled? Is this a big deal in terms of the contractor and what he would have to do to install this tub? Also, how would an "field-installed" skirt be attached and how satisfactory are those over time?

Thanks for any thoughts... we'll be asking potential contractors about this but would like to be armed with some information going in...

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Comments (3)

advertguy2
15 years ago
I just went through this exact thing. Three wall aclove, 60x32.

My order of preference was 1) integral tile flange 2)factory installed and 3) field installed. Obviously the integral will have no chance of seperating or leaking since it's integrated intot he tub. The only difference between the factory applied and field applied is that the factory one is done in a controlled environment. From talking to Kohler, they use the same 3M double sided adhesive tape.

In terms of the skirt, integral skirt will have no chance of coming lose later on. Seperate acrylic skirt may come lose I might think. I have no idea. There would also be a seam which could collect crud. I decided for looks that I would tile the front.

So after all is said and done, I only found a limited number of tubs that have an integral flange and didn't have a skirt. I ended up getting the Kohler Hourglass (K-1219). I believe the other manufacturers that had options were Alcove Ficus and Mirolin Azzura Amalfi. I haven't installed it yet.
mtiwhirlpools
15 years ago
Both integral and factory installed tile flanges work really well. Field installed units can work well if installed properly. MTI Whirlpools manufactures drop in and integral skirted models with integral tile flanges. We also manufacture products with factory installed kits as well. If you would like an acrylic front apron, you can purchase the integral unit, or purchase an acrylic skirt separately. We also have a framing option. We 'frame up' the tub using hardwoods and pre-level the tub using a high density foam. If the acrylic skirt is ordered, we attach the skirt to the framing. Makes installation really easy. If you have any specific questions, you can call our customer service department at 800-783-8827 or email me. We also have a great website.

Here is a link that might be useful: MTI Whirlpools
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I don't do tile for a living but I do have just such a tub, which I tiled around four years ago. I did not use any sheet metal (don't see the purpose), but I did use tar paper behind the cement board. I think stuck it to the (minimal) tub flange with something... a bit of roofing cement, maybe? I can't remember anymore. I used Hardiebacker instead of Durock for the tile substrate. I chamfered the back bottom edges of the Hardiebacker so that the inside faces of the backer could be a bit closer to the tub deck (since the flange is too thick to be pinched between backer and studs). I filled the gap between Hardiebacker and tub deck with clear siliconized latex caulk and let that caulk dry completely before proceeding with the tile work. After setting and grouting the tile, the vertical corners and the joint between tile and tub were caulked with sanded, color-matched caulk from the grout manufacturer. After a few days' curing time, the grout was sealed with Miracle 511. Four years later, the installation still looks great. If you caulk the space between the Durok / tile and the tub itself, how does the moisture get back to the tub? Grout and Durock / Hardiebacker are both moisture-permeable. They are "waterproof" in the sense that water doesn't hurt them, but they are not waterproof in the way that a fish tank is waterproof.
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bill_vincent
15 years ago
I'm sorry, but I've seen and heard of alot of problems with flange kits. It might be true that if installed properly that they'll work fine. But from what I've seen, they must not be very user friendly. Any time I see someone trying to make a decision like this where it's between a unit with and a unit without a flange, where tile will be used I'll recommend the unit with the integrated flange every time, hands down.

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