Thanks very much for your response. The brand is West Shore. They only sell in PA. Since you responded to me, and I had around the same time decided to cancel the contract, which I conveyed to them via email, they came back (basically overnight) with a price of just under $20,000. I'm beginning to think that is more reasonable for 11 windows. The trapezoids, though, are approximately $2400 a piece (I had mistakenly written $1800 in my previous email - I thought that is what the salesman had said when we met with him - in coming back with the new price, he emailed the before and after cost sheet, though I had not seen the price of the trapezoids written down when we met with him so I don't know if he changed the original sheet), which are the biggest cost hitters (a little over $12,000 for 5). Other details: the 4 large windows are double hung, but the trapezoids do not open (and as I had noted, they are double pane rather than triple pane). With respect to installation, the company hauls away the old windows (whatever materials besides the glass that includes). I guess the primary question I have is, do specialty shapes like trapezoidal windows drive up the cost that much, especially given that, at least in our case, they don't open? Also, they showed us the various layers of materials that cover the surface of the glass that stop UV light and possible infrared (maybe through better reflection), but allow the visible to come through. I assume those treatments would drive up the cost. The company also uses it's own installers (i.e., they don't contract out). I believe their products are good quality. Also, they have an A+ from the BBB and high ratings from the industry itself (I don't know whether these things are easy to acquire or not). Finally, one other thing he said, which may be baked into the prices of the large and trapezoidal windows, is that because there are relatively small distances between the windows (the array of 4 large and 5 traps effectively forms a giant picture window in the front of the house), they are going to cover wood between with vinyl so that we will never have to paint the wood around them again (I didn't request that, so maybe it's something they do with such structures). Anyway, that may be something to consider as well, though it's not an explicit cost line item on the cost sheet. Thanks in advance for any advice you might be able to provide.

Inserts are fine if your original windows were installed really well and there are no air leaks etc. around the old frames. In my case, I'm dealing with a 100 year old home. 30 odd years ago someone came along and did aluminum insert windows. So they hauled out the double hung sashes and slapped aluminum inserts in the cavity. What they of course missed was the fact that the original wood windows were installed with little to no insulation around the rough framing and the brick walls, and the wood window frame itself just sits nailed into the rough framing with little to no insulation (no spray foam in 1910). Plus, there are massive cavities on either side of each window where the counter weights still reside. Nice big open unsealed uninsulated cavities. On top of that, the lathe and plaster construction on the interior of the solid brick walls is such that there is a 1 inch cavity behind all the plaster (vertical strapping on the walls to which the horizontal lathe is nailed). So, all the nice cold air comes in around the old window frames and permeates the walls. Runs into the floor and ceiling joists and continues its journey putting a chill through the house. Factor in a 3 story house with very tall 5-6 foot windows and you get a ton of heat loss. In this case, a full tear-out is the only thing worth doing. Interior trim is all going, the counterweights will come out, loads of spray foam will go in around the rough framing to seal to the brick walls, and the new windows will be installed properly in the rough framing sealed up with more foam. Fresh trim inside and out. Expensive yes, but the only reason to do this is to make the house more comfortable. The few dollars we might save in heating and cooling costs are irrelevant. So again, if the current windows are installed well and you have no heat loss around them, inserts are fine.

Hi, Over the last 3 years I have installed the following casement windows. Summary: Of the 3 windows I have now installed I would probably go with the Marvin "Essential" All Ultrex windows if I wanted an All Fiberglass double pane window. Unfortunately they do not offer a triple pane option for the Essential series. If we ever build new or have to redo windows in our next home, I will likely go with the Marvin "Elevate" Wood Interior / Fiberglass Exterior Triple Pane windows. Or I would further investigate the other higher end triple pane fiberglass options on the market. Since I live in MN and Marvin is based in MN and they are really nice windows, I would probably pick the Marvin Elevate's triple pane still. The other higher end fiberglass options may have better thermal glass spacers, but I think with a triple pane, this likely matters much less compared to double pane glass spacers for condensation resistance. The real advantage of a triple pane window is you can use any window blinds/shades you want and still have no condensation. For my double panes I have to open our blinds around 12 inches so the bottom of the window is exposed to the room otherwise they get pretty bad condensation on colder nights which completely defeats the purpose of having fancy thermal efficient double cell cellular blinds. Crestline Acclaim Triple Pane with 366/272 coating Good Excellent condensation resistance, virtually zero even at -20 deg F Nice wood like side jamb visual design look Stiff frame that doesn't move based on summer vs winter Nice gaskets Cheap Bad Single Operator cranks are pretty bad, especially for a heavier triple pane Gives off a greenish hue tint due to the 366/272 coating I really wish they would update to a double operator crank and give more glass coating options, could be an excellent window with those updates!! Marvin All Ultrex "now called Essential" Double Pane with 180 coating Good Stiff frame that doesn't move based on summer vs winter Double operator cranks are nice and smooth Option for 180 coating Okay Mediocre condensation resistance, typical double pane Jam visual design Bad Kind of expensive No option for high transparent screens No option for self clean glass Anderson 100 Series "Fibrex" Double Pane with 272 coating Good Cheap Double operator cranks are nice and smooth Okay Mediocre condensation resistance, typical double pane High Transparent screen option very expensive Can't remember if a self clean glass was an option Bad Frame gets smaller in cold weather and larger in warm weather. I installed in summer and windows opened and closed great, then winter came and they would get slightly stuck due to the outer frame shrinking enough for gaskets on sash to get slightly stuck on fixed window frame. Likely due to the fibrex material's coefficient of thermal expansion and mediocore frame design that allows the thermal expansion/contraction to deflect the frame.

Thanks @todd!! Hopefully the heat buildup won't be an issue. I called up Provia (such nice people) and after describing my set-up and the lack of direct sun, they said it shouldn't be an problem. For issue 2, the window that came was smaller than the exterior rough opening, which leads me to believe it could/should have been bigger. My general contractor had already framed the walls using the original windows as guides, so this smaller window throws everything off. Anyway, they are in now. Have you ever saw drywall put in at an angle, where I'd start it where the wall framing is and angle inward to meet the window frame, or is that a ridiculous thought? The caulking you use sounds more sensible. Alas, that ugly, gloppy white caulking with whatever crap blew by in the wind and stuck to it is in, so I guess I'm going to have to live with it. And the softness of the pine, oh if i knew this, I might have made different choices. The guys filled the gouges with putty, but of course you can still see them. Brand new windows and they are already looking cruddy. What a bummer this all is.