Welcome -- and I hope no one was hurt in the accident. What is the "usual" price? It's only been recently that many people quit paying sticker price or higher for the car. Your handle ("organic_smallhome") indicates that you're willing to pay more for something you perceive as "greener" (that's not a slam, BTW; I do that, too). But what are your goals in buying a Prius? Lowest possible tailpipe emissions or carbon footprint? Fuel economy? Something else? Are you planning to drive the car into the ground or hold onto it for several years before trading for the next advance in "green" technology? Fact of the matter is that you can get a better deal than a Prius for a lot less money. If you're after fuel economy and interior room, you could buy one of the larger GM models (Chevy Impala, Buick LaCrosse) and get an honest close-to-30 mpg highway (hybrids are notorious for not hitting their EPA numbers) in a car that's cheap to insure and fix. If you're after pure mileage, you could go for a Honda Civic (which is now the size of the "old" Accord) or Fit, or the Toyota Yaris or Corolla and get 85-90% of the mileage of a Prius without the purchase price and the expensive maintenance. If you're really concerned about the carbon footprint, you'll go for the Civic or Corolla (both manufactured in North America) or -- even better -- a good-quality used version of either. Keep in mind that the Prius contains two drive systems (electrical and gasoline-powered) and lots of complicated electronics to make everything work. To Toyota's credit, it works well and Toyota has effectively mass-marketed a new technology without much of a hitch. (I know, Honda was first with its Insight, but it didn't sell like the Prius has.) However, most aftermarket service facilities and parts vendors don't yet see enough of a market to invest in equipment almost exclusively for the Prius, so you will be back to the dealer (at dealer labor rates) for all but the most routine parts and maintenance. And the battery pack is still a huge question mark -- how long will it last in real life? How much will it cost to replace? What will a Prius be worth without a good battery pack? In addition to the extra money it costs for all the pieces-parts, you're gambling some money on future repairability and resale value. Hope that helps....

North Texan, I'm sorry, but your point #1 is simply not correct. A gas tankless is about 92 % efficient (condensing model) any time it is running. It is that efficient because it extracts enough heat from the flue gasses that it takes the gases below the point of condensing the water vapor - and thus even gets the latent heat in the water vapor. That's true any time it's running. It's not an average between "low efficiency and off" as you suggested. Condensing gas tankless water heaters extract so much heat that they vent with plastic vent. There are 82% non-condensing units that vent with stainless steel, but the vent is so expensive it makes more sense to use a condensing unit and vent with PVC. BTW: Condensing gas furnaces work on exactly the same principle. Standard gas tank heaters are about 60% efficient and can't get much better than that. The reason is that they must leave the flue gases hot enough to rise up through the atmospheric vent (hot gases rise). Atmospherically vented (standard) gas water heaters also have higher standby losses and air infiltration / exfiltration issues. There is a 3" flue up the middle of the tank that is open to the sky 24/7. They also take their combustion air from the conditioned air in the house and dump it outside requiring makeup air. Most gas tankless units get their combustion air from an outside intake. I think that you are confusing the issue of input requirements for a tankless heater. A tankless heater (gas or electric) has to heat water very quickly - and thus the input requirements are massive (a typical gas tankless is 200k btu/h vs 40k btu/h for standard gas tank). An electric water heater is almost 100% efficient already - and an electric tankless doesn't improve on that any. Electric tankless saves about 3% on standby losses. I have no idea where you got point #2 - but since point #1 isn't right, Point #2 is also not right. There is a significant cost to retrofit to gas tankless. In new construction the cost difference should be about $500 or less. I can't really comment on the payback because the install costs are so out of whack. In my view, atmospherically vented gas water heaters should be off the table - just as atmospherically vented gas furnaces are no longer available. I would never recommend whole house electric tankless. The operating cost savings (3%) aren't enough to justify any of the additional service requirements. There is no discernible payback. They don't generally produce enough GPM either. There are much better solutions for homes without gas - such as hybrid heaters. Electric Point of Use units can make sense in some situations, but not whole house electric tankless.

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It seems like Delta hasn't offered any good deals on their Touch2O kitchen faucets in a while. Their Prime Day deals were a complete disappointment. Moen was offering way better deals on their MotionSense faucets. The reason is because I have a friend who wants to buy a Touch2O faucet. She says she prefers a touch sensitive faucet over a motion sensor faucet. Does anyone think Delta will have good deals on Black Friday this year?