Clip a few of the affected leaves, put them in a plastic bag with a wet paper toel to keep them fresh, and take them to either/both a good nursery with knowledgeable employees or to you county's extension agent. Just be a littl leery of any pronouncement at the nursery that goes along the lines of "oh yes, it's thus-and-so, and if you buy this and use it, the problem will go away". This may or may not be true, but I would do some homework first, as it may be that the true answer to the problem is another remedy, or that it's NOT that problem. You may be lucky, and hit upon a truly knowledgable person, but too nursery workers are seasonal, and don't really know - try to get the manager or the resident horticulturist. If the extension agent doesn't know, s/he can send the leaves on to the state university, which sponsors county extension agents. You might also, if there is a college or university near-by with a good horticultural/forestry department, take the leaves there and ask around. A local arboretum may also have someone who can help. And, if you can post photos, you may get more help from here.

Hello, Silvia. I would routinely monitor to see if the symptoms persist or not. A smaller and more limited root system could be making it difficult for the plant to absorb the same amount of minerals needed to support the growth above ground. Here are a few of the basics that I would check: * make the soil as evenly moist as possible. maintain 3-4 inches of mulch up to the drip line and test the soil to make sure it is not wet. Water if the soil is almost dry or dry to the touch to a depth of 4" * the soil should be kept acidic (they will tolerate lightly alkaline soil too); test it with a soil pH kit available at many plant nurseries. * the soil should not be heavily fertilized as this can burn some roots; test the soil for high/low nitrogen/phosphorus/pottasium levels using a kit available at many plant nurseries. * check for salt built up in the soil too; it can cause a brownish-yellow leaf discoloration * make sure the plant leaves are not getting too much sun. If moved from an area where the leaves got little sun to one with more sun exposure, the leaves may temporarily react to the sunlight. If the exposure is not high, the leaves should adjust after a while. * make sure the plant has not sunk below the surrounding soil. * make sure there are few air pockets * the plant is stressed so try not to over-fertilize. * keep an eye for signs of camellia cankers and die back, a fungal disease (see the link below) Luis

Red Maples like their feet wet, Water them and water them well especially during the establishing period. I water my trees once a week for four hours on the full hose a ways back from the drip line to not mess up the soil and to get the full area wet. It's funny, the area gets saturated, I mean it's a lot of gallons of water(!), but by the time I've put the hose on the tree next to it and walked back, the water has already sunk into the ground, completely disappeared.That's my sandy soil for you. It is literally impossible to over water trees here. Anyway, I do that once a week and my red maples are doing outstanding, no transplant shock occurred at all. And my October glory that I planted 2 years ago grew 2 1/2 feet this spring and summer. My Red Sunsets grew just less than a foot, but that is because they've only been in the ground 11 1/2 months. None of them dropped leaves early and that is because I kept them well watered. That is basically transplant shock, a tree that is not getting enough water during that critical period following transplanting. Of course it also depends on your soil type. I have sandy loam that is super fast draining.

Well.....it's dead. I scratched the bark on the trunk, and it's brownish/white. I dug it up and inspected all the soil in the planting hole. I ran my hands through all of it. The soil wasn't at all wet, it was damp. It was planted so you could see the root flare. I'm disappointed about this one; it's almost impossible to get a multitrunked amur maple, unless you want to pay Sooner's ridiculous $100, which I won't. I'm going to look at other types of maples to plant. I know I could put a sugar maple in there and it would grow effortlessly, but I don't want that big of a tree. Thank you for your replies.