Old Camellia turning yellow after transplant
Sil72
11 years ago
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Sil72
11 years agoRelated Discussions
arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.
Comments (11)1 minute per tree per day with hose end shower spray is grossly insufficient. Lose the spray nozzle, turn the water pressure onto a slow trickle and leave the hose in place at the base of each tree for 15-20 minutes or so. Do this at least every 2-3 days (more often if soil very fast drainage or weather demands). And skip any ammonia (??) or other fertilizer - newly planted trees and shrubs are typically shocky and with insufficient root development to assimilate nutrients properly. Wait until next spring if you think you need to fertilize. Clearing out the weeds or whatever between the trees and mulching well will be a big plus. No weeds means more nutrients and soil moisture for the trees and mulching will help prevent evaporation, lowering the need for more frequent wateri8ng....See MoreCamellia dying after transplant
Comments (4)It is normally called transplant shock and we can only speculate if it will recover. The older the shrubs, the more difficult it is to recover from transplants. Some leaf losss is to be expected but daily watering sounds like too much water, which can then lead to root rot. It sounds like it isgetting to be too late for this one but keep trying. I would wait until next Spring before pulling it out. Try the basics: a little sun only (before 10-11am); 3-4" of mulch; try some very low strength root stimulator; instead of fertilizers, use liquid seaweed which is weak and can be used to feed thru the leaves; control daily watering; water only when a finger feels dry or almost dry if you insert it to a depth of 4"; whenever you replant, make sure you place it slightly above the surrounding soil; transplant when the shrub is dormant if time permits; choose a location that is not windy....See MoreAfter Transplant, Loss of Fruit and Yellow Leaves of Meyer Lemon
Comments (9)Hi Christy, Yes, that MG citrus soil is toxic!! I have no idea why they sell that soil as citurs soil when it is so far from being citrus soil. Here is my experience with MG citrus soil. I used it last spring when I bought my dwarf keylime and my dwarf moro blood orange. A year later, and the dwarf moro blood orange is no more, and lucky for me dwarf key lime has thrived. I would urge you to repot the Meyer lemon ASAP. If the Meyer's roots stay moist for more than 2 days, you run the risk of having root rot and a whole slew of problems. I was turned on to Al's gritty mix. You might be able to make a version of the gritty mix but PLEASE don't use the vermiculite! That is also moisture renentive and therefore will keep your mix moist. From what I have learned from Mike, the point of the gritty mix is to have a mix that drains frelly and dries out completely in 1-2 days. I had a hard time deciding on using this or not. I was concerned about how well my citrus trees would do when I go on vacation since I really don't have anyone to water for me. However, I have seen a rapid big change in the 3 trees that I have this mix in. We should get together and write a complaint to Miracle Grow. They really need to change the name of the mix to just cactus soil!! Good luck with your tree. Once you change the soil to Al's gritty mix, your tree should improve greatly and yes it is extemely important that you remove every last bit of the soil mix before you repot it into the gritty mix. I would take the tree to the sink after you remove the majority of the crappy MG citrus soil. I would have the water at luke warm and rinse all the soil off those roots. I would not wait another minute to repot this tree. I don't remember who said it here, but someone had said that the average life expectancy of a potted citrus is two years because they normally die from root rot. The thing that is really bad is that us newbies don't think that we are doing anything wrong in using the MG soil since it is MG. I have been growing tropicals and other plants since for quite a while now and the biggest lesson that I have learned is that a prepackaged soil is not necessarily a good soil to use. For the past 4 years or so, I have been mixing up diffrent soils based on the needs of the plant. Citrus and mango were the last two fruit trees that I had problems with making a mix for. Andrew...See MoreLace cap hydrangea yellowing and losing leaves after transplant
Comments (3)I doubt you've done anything wrong to this plant :-) Transplanting a hydrangea in the early part of November is only going to hasten the very natural seasonal yellowing and dropping of foliage. Honestly, I'm a bit surprised to see any foliage left at all. And a bit of spotting on the leaves now is nothing to be overly concerned about either - most likely some combination of transplant, seasonal and/or weather stress. It should be fine come spring. In zone 6 it is a good idea to provide Hydrangea macrophylla with some sort of winter protection to prevent excessive dieback and potential loss of next season's blooms due to cold damage. If you search the archives of this forum, you'll find a variety of posts that discuss this topic and recommend methods....See Moreluis_pr
11 years agoluis_pr
11 years agotamararly
11 years agoSil72
11 years agotamararly
11 years agoSil72
10 years agoluis_pr
10 years agoBronwyn Woodbury
2 years ago
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