I've always read that energy for the fruit comes from the roots (at least in peaches) up to the pit hardening stage. After that the fruit gets it's carbohydrates from the leaves. Below is an article I've linked before, but provides a little more detail to my statement above. I agree completely that fruits absorb carbohydrates from local foliage. For larger fruits 30-40 leaves. For cherries 2 only leaves are required. As an interesting aside, I've also read that leaves have to be ahead of the peach/fruit for it to benefit from the leaves. While I think this is generally true, I've seen many peaches grow on little shoots that only have a little tuft of 2 or 3leaves at the end of the small shoot (These peaches should have been removed.) These peaches are certainly smaller than other peaches, but interestingly if they are left on the tree for a long time they generally end up with an acceptable flavor. I've also seen some peaches at the very end of the shoot with no leaves past them. They too are smaller, but also generally end up with a decent flavor. Because of this it's my theory peaches can absorb some carbohydrates from foliage downstream, even though the literature says otherwise. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow big peaches

Well, I did go crazy cutting little pears before seeing the last 2 posts and the fruits are now a foot apart. I don't know the varieties---it's one of those 3 type grafted trees from Raintree, as I only had room for one tree. (They did tell me which 3 types, but not which is which, so the information isn't very useful to me!) As a general rule, I err on the side of over-thinning to ensure good long-term growth and health---I'm really not sure what came over me with this little tree. I'm new at fruit-growing (I've been in my house for 5 years) but hope to be here forever, so I don't mind the possibility of losing out on some fruit to know I did the best for the tree. I really do appreciate all the discussion and advice from you pro's... Ann

I see my neighbor stealing some of the raspberries between the houses (kind of a shared spot). Not a big deal, as I steal some beans on my side of the fence, and she also gives me some food as well. I have gotten her addicted to blackberries! I do grow more plants then just fruit - like castor beans, and I had to chase down some teens who a bunch. I managed to track them down - they thought it was weed, and man would they have gotten a shock when they smoked it....... I had to tell them what it was. OF course they didnt believe me. I had to use one of their phones to show them the differences. Ive had cops stop and ask what it was as well.

Thanks everyone for your advice! It is very helpful! Applenut, you are 100% correct! I got my tree from Lowes when they had it on clearance for $5. Wasn't planning to get it but just couldn't resist the price. Like you mentioned, the Fuji and Beverly Hills are definitely not competing very well with the others ~ they did not have much growth and no flowers. I am planning to plant it in the ground next spring. I am also planning to get a separate Fuji tree next spring. In the meantime, I guess I will try to let the Anna and Dorsett Golden to keep some fruits like you suggested. But I do have another question: you mentioned the tree is expected to flower and fruit this time of the year. Does it mean we can have 2 crops of apple every year, one from spring flowering and one from fall? It would be great! By the way, can anyone advise me on the difference between bareroot trees (I mean like the ones you find in the home centers) vs. bench graft trees? Are bench graft ones better than the bareroots? Also, does anyone know of a good source to buy low chill apples? I have heard of a variety called Tropic Sweet but could not locate a place to buy it in So Cal. Thanks!