The TN-EPPC doesn't list Fallopia baldschuanica (Silverlace Vine). If it is invasive at all in TN, it would be very minimally. Actually, relatively few vines are invasive in TN. The TN-EPPC only lists 15 species of vines including the ones listed as possibly invasive (alert). See link below. Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon) is an invasive in Tennessee. There are a few "sterile" (actually they aren't completely sterile, but are much better than the typical species) cultivars, if you really want to use that plant. They produce pretty flowers, but overall are, IMO, only marginally attractive as an ornamental shrub. I really like the idea of blueberry bushes. Soil preparation and careful selections of cultivars, to match your climate, would be very important for this plant, BUT, think of the payoff (lots of fresh blueberries and happy birds). Evergreen blueberries might be useful to block the view / provide privacy year-round. Here is a link that might be useful: Invasive Plants in Tennessee

Am constantly suggesting,in this forum and others,especially for my zone, 7 and warmer,Gelsemium sempervirens. It has been vigorous but controllable,looking almost the same, year around.The Winter Sun bronzes mine up a little. Mine is in half day Sun and may not do as well in total shade. It may become top-heavy but mine is green and thick to the ground. An electric shearing every 3-4 years after bloom seems like enough to work with it's tendancy to mass at the top. Brief bloom of yellow flowers with some odor. Some sorts have double flowers.

I'd look at passionflower (Passiflora sp.) or star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides. Both are evergreen and rather dense vines (star jasmine sometimes trimmed as shrubby hedge or even groundcover) and should provide good cover. For a 30' hedge, I would pick one or the other but plant them in multiples for the fastest coverage. Vines always want to grow up but if you start early, you can train them to spread sideways as well as vertically.

There are quite a number of wonderful perennial vines that grow in NH. (I am assuming that the NH in your user name indicates location, but if not these may not be good suggestions.) Some of the non-invasive honeysuckles include Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), European honeysuckle (L. periclymenum) and a couple of hybrids, Goldflame and Mandarin. Lonicera sempervirens 'Major Wheeler' last week There's a wide range of clematis available in sizes ranging from just a few feet to 15 feet or more, and they come in shades of purple, pink, reddish, and white. Clematis Mikelite late June Clematis Gravetye Beauty early July Clematis Prince Charles early July Clematis Venosa Violacea early July Clematis HF Young early June Clematis Ville de Lyon mid June The native pipevine (Aristolochia macrophylla) is mostly a foliage plant, with large heart-shaped leaves and pipe-shaped flowers tucked into the foliage. It provides food for one of the types of swallowtail butterflies. Another vine that can be grown for foliage is hops, Humulus lupulus, which is another really large plant. Besides the various green forms that provide the hops for brewing and their ornamental value, there is a gold-leafed form. There's a great photo of mature hops vines in this thread. Climbing Hydrangea will grow in part to full shade and has white flowers in June. It gets to 20' or more if untrimmed and needs a surface to climb such as a masonry wall or tree trunk so I don't think would work for your chain link. Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) isn't great for a small garden as it is a large, vigorous plant, but is good for a woodland edge where it produces fruit for birds and has crimson fall foliage. It can be grown successfully on chain link fencing also. If you are interested in edible fruit, in addition to grapes, hardy kiwi vines produce clusters of grape-sized smooth fruit that taste just like tropical kiwis, but without the fuzzy coat. Both Kiwi and grapes will produce best with proper training. There are also various annual vines such as scarlet runner beans, sweet peas, and black-eyed Susan vines (Thunbergia) that you can plant between the perennial vines for a season or two while you wait for the perennial vines to get some size. Unless you have a really narrow area, you might also want to consider shrubs planted close enough to the fence so that some of the branches grow through the fence to help hide it. Hydrangea paniculata such as Limelight, Quickfire, or Vanilla Strawberry might work for this if the area is at least 7' wide.