Hey! They just painted my entire apartment (what's left of it after the demo) with mold resistant paint. It all looks very nice now ;+) I will post the link to ALL my demo pictures. For the white paint just go the end of the group. way cool! sadie Here is a link that might be useful: My Demo after catastrophic flood

An attorney told me to have an industrial hygienist evaluate and form a mold treatment plan. - go to the American Industrial Hygiene Associationî (www.aiha.org) for the names of professionals in your area. Members in this organization are experts. The hygienist will form a remediation plan. This is not cheap - I paid over a thousand dollars. Remember, these professionals are independent scientists - not someone trying to sell you a waterproofing job or someone who got âÂÂcertificationâ by going to a few classes at a convention. The plans will be very detailed. The plan will specify any demo, cleaning, mold resistant sealants; antimicrobial paints etc. to be used.Inspections are visual and air and surface samples will be taken. Be prepared to pay for each sample. Independent labs do the analysis. The hygienist can give you the names of reputable mold remediation firms that they have worked with in the past. Please use a professional so that you have peace of mind that the job was done right. If you sell the house in the future you will have to disclose the mold problem. Prospective buyers will be less fearful to buy a home that was remediated properly. Mold remediation can be very expensive. Think the cost of a new luxury car if the mold is extensive. The areas to be treated are cleaned under negative pressure by individuals using head to toe protection HEPA vacuums are used. Your electricity bill will soar during the time that they are working in your home. Often your HVAC systems will also need to be cleaned and sanitized. The cost of remediation depends upon the hygienistâÂÂs plan. Your remediation company should spell out everything in their contract. Demo can mean mean dumpsters and baging all porous items like sheet rockin plastic. Remediation firms remove mold on surfaces by using wire brushes, dry ice blasting or baking soda blasting. Then all surfaces are cleaned with detergents. Wood surfaces will need to be sealed with special sealants. This is not something that you can take care of with a bottle of Tilex. See http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/html/epi/moldrpt1.shtml for guidelines on mold remediation. Use this info as a guideline for your own project. After the remediation is completed the hygienist will come back and take air and surface samples from inside and outside the house. The hygienist will look to see if the remediation meets the specifications in his/her treatment plan. The mold spores inside the house have to be lower than those outside the house. There is no EPA standard for mold. Good luck ��" I hope this info helps.

@Celadon We were told by a former contractor that if the square footage affected is collective less than 9-10 sqft and if there is no splintering, warping, sagging nor separation of osb panels replacement isn’t warranted for osb subfloor. We also personally referenced/double-checked to ensure that those assertions were accurate. Therefore, we chose the remediation path. Although I can appreciate your insight, you did not address my inquiry.

We are in Indiana so the summers are warm / humid but not year round. We did have a problem with two of the gutters when we moved in about a 1.5 years ago - they were routed underground and started backing up so we had a company come out and re-route them with pvc and guards - no problem since. We have an industrial strength dehumidifier in the basement but there is a giant crawl space - about 750 square feet - my husband crawled around down there and didn't see anything, but who knows...maybe a professional would see something we don't. This is a 1970s home so I don't know about the waterproofing on the outside of the basement...it's probably 2500 square feet around the outside of the first story footprint so not insignificant if that involves having it dug around. But when we renovated the basement - pulled off paneling and put up framing, insulation, and drywall - we painted drylok as instructed on the concrete blocks before framing. We did see evidence of water damage on some of the paneling, but it was in the same place where the gutters had backed up. We left everything off the walls for a few months in the spring just to make sure there wasn't still an issue. Never saw mold (again - we're not professionals so if it wasn't obvious - like the typical black or fuzzy stuff - we may have missed it). I appreciate all of the feedback...all of the renovations are about 2x what we ever thought (mainly because of things like the underground routing, having to replace all of the plumbing, some windows failing - the boring stuff that's also necessary) so we want to do what's right with this mold situation but also not break the bank. The reason we initially had it tested was some new allergies when we moved in and high cholesterol (otherwise healthy without a history and we are nutritionally conscious - both of us tested high a year after living here - prior year was not high - , and that can be the body's response to mold). For reference, the testing in the basement has an ERMI result of 22.6 (anything over 20 is high and the report says "re-occupancy is ill-advised until futher remediation and re-assessment are conclusive"). Sounds scary - not like we can move out until we figure it out. The Group 1 - Water Damage Molds were a sum of 35.2, and the highest (100 fold higher than normal) were Aspergillus sclerotiorum, aspergillus versicolor, eurotium (asp.) amstelodami, and penicillium corylophilum.