if anyone reads this, please respond...need info about dricore. What happens if you do get a flood?? How does the dricore hold up? If we get a flood the water recedes pretty fast....My basement is normaly dry except the 2 times (in 10 years) when we had Noreasters, and it rained for 13 days, there was a full moon, the ground was saturated and everything else was working against me. Needless to say we had to rip out carpet twice. We use the room as a kids playroom and there was the 2 times we got ground water. I'm looking for an inexpensive solution to just make the floors look good. I was thinking of dricore with an inexpensive floating laminate on top or just putting a big remnant rug had have on the floor now. If anyone has a suggestions please let me know. What happens to tile if you get ground water? thanks

I'll just make a couple general comments: 1) For the record, my Eagle casements and awnings have been excellent. Installed in 2010 there have had zero issues. That said, when the framer was ready to install I had the Eagle representative inspect the installation of the first window and explain in detail how they needed to be installed. I think that was critical. 2) Not all window designs are the same and although there are general "good practice" installation guidelines like mentioned earlier, each manufacturer has a specific set of installation requirements. It's hard to find framers that know every window, and unfortunately many don't read the enclosed installation protocol. It's my belief that much of the window failures come from not following the manufacturers procedure. Of course, any window can't be expected to survive a faulty architectural design. And when you do have failure, you have the trifecta of blame of the manufacturer, builder (framer), and architect, which usually gets ugly with the client held hostage. I hope this ends happily. Just watch out where the blame is laid.

Oh dear. That's what I thought. Here's the skinny on 'prep'. Prep is the UGLY stuff that NO ONE sees and NO ONE knows to ask about...nor do they usually OFFER the ugly stuff in their quotes. The ugly stuff is expensive. And in the past they have quoted it and they have lost jobs to lower bidders who did NOT offer prep. Over and over again the 'good' companies offer quotes on prep and time and time again they LOSE the jobs. So they have started to work like everyone else. To stay in business they drop the preparation quotes. Which is how they get jobs....because their bids are now 'in line' with the companies around them. Subfloor prep needs to be paid for. And the company that promises it must deliver it. The basis is, you pay for it = you get it. This company has not quoted nor were they paid for prep work. Sadly (oh so sadly) you were the one who 'got what you paid for' (not meant in a mean way). So...to get preparation done, you will need to pay for it. An upstairs preparation costs = $1-$3/sf for a bit of sanding...a bit of levelling...a bit more sanding. The concrete slab can require $2 - $5/sf for preparation...and in this case the sealant will need to be paid for as well. A slab that is in good shape that is nice and flat, that only needs a good scrub to get a bit of bite to it = $2/sf. A concrete slab that needs a good cleaning (may have old carpet glue all over it) and plenty of grinding and plenty of patching (Self Leveling Compound = SLC) and more grinding can and will cost $4+/sf. And these numbers are why they didn't quote it. The upstairs = $2/sf x 609sf = $1,218. The downstairs concrete (just for fun we'll use $4/sf) = $4/sf x 694sf = $2,776. The prep alone *should have been quoted at $4,000. Their quote should have been more than $25,700. ***At this point, assuming you can prove they were all wrong on all things, they owe you removal of the improperly installed floor. They must replace with 'like for like' subfloor plywood that was there BEFORE they arrived. Be aware that you *might be required to pay the extra $4,000 for the subfloor preparation that you did not pay - that needs to be done...you may not. It depends on how good you are at negotiating. If they won't do this voluntarily you will be required to pay for the NWFA Certified Inspector to come out and document what you spoke about over the phone. And then you present the findings (but do NOT hand over the document...SHE who pays for the report OWNS the report). The findings will push them to do the right thing. Hopefully they will come to their senses before you have to spend several hundred dollars on the Inspection.

This whole thread is so much facepalm. First of all, neither bleach nor vinegar "kill" mold. They can inhibit its growth by providing an environment that is not conducive to spore reproduction, but they can't "kill" it. Secondly, you ALWAYS have mold spores everywhere all the time in your home. Always. If you have conditions for mold, mold will always grow 100% of the time. If you don't have conditions for mold, mold won't grow, no matter how many spores are around. The biggest lie of the mold remediation industry is that you can "clean" your home of mold spores and that will stop mold growth. As long as mold has not structurally compromised your sub floor, you can clean it up yourself and there is no reason to tear out the floor. Let everything dry out, get a bottle of concrobium from the hardware store. Concrobium can actually for REAL "kill" mold spores in wood by crushing them, and making the wood inhospitable to future mold growth. Apply it liberally to the areas with mold, let it thoroughly dry, vacuum up all surfaces in the the room, and you're done. After that, going forward, you won't have mold growth as long as the floor stays dry. If it stays dry, no mold. If it gets wet again in the future, you'll have mold again. This is always the way it will be whether you dump a $20 bottle of concrobium on it or pay a remediation company $10,000 to rip out your subfloor.