Patience is an important aspect of gardening, so this will give you a good opportunity to practice. :-) I agree with Al... it's best to gather everything together so you have all necessary ingredients on hand, make a small batch of the Gritty Mix, and work with it through the coming season to gain familiarity with its properties. By next spring, you'll be an old hand at knowing how it works, why it works, and you'll have made any necessary adjustments in watering technique, etc... and your Maple trees will be the better for your experiences and patience. Learning beforehand and having that knowledge to draw from is truly the key to being successful. :-)

I think I will just save the repotting for next year. Except . . .there is one hosta in particular that I purchased early September through our hosta society. There are roots coming out of the bottom. I just tried to take it out of its pot and I couldn't do it. So tomorrow I will cut the pot off, try to loosen the roots and then up pot. I don't think this hosta is planted in media for pots though. But I won't be able to remove too much of the original media. I can then see what happens next year.

If the blooms fall off before setting it will flower again. Plant now.

I heartily agree with Dave. That's a nice looking plant. Is the potting mix fine grained and peaty or more coarse grained? Fine grained soils usually stay soggy long after you water, which suffocates and kills the fine roots that are responsible for taking up water and nutrients. The challenge, then, is to figure out how to make sure the roots spend most of their time in an environment that's moist, not saturated with water. As you'll learn by reading the posts Dave linked, the solution is to repot the plant into a fast-draining highly aerated mix that will retain very little or no water after watering. Don't despair, though, because there are ways to keep your plant healthy until next June. First, you need to monitor soil moisture in the bottom of the pot, which is where roots get damaged by excess or 'perched' water. The easy, sharp, and reliable way to monitor moisture is to sharpen a thin dowel (1/4" or 3/8" work well), push it all the way through the soil to the bottom of the pot, and water only when the dowel comes out clean and dry to the touch. A wooden skewer or disposable chopstick work too. Check daily until you know how fast it dries up, at which time you'll know how long after watering it needs to be checked. Once the dowel comes out dry, water evenly and thoroughly so all the soil gets wet, until 10-15% of the water exits the pot. Leave it upright until water stops draining, then prop it up at 45 degrees for 15 minutes; if your drain holes are around the outside of the pot, most of the perched water will drain out while it's tilted, and for spot with a hole in the center it will drain out when you set it upright. Repeat the last step if you think you didn't get it all.