Anyone have any treatment or trick to keep rodents out of your engine?
always1stepbehind
6 years ago
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marcopolo5
6 years agoUser
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Something took my lemons - Any animal or rodent eat green lemons?
Comments (15)Scott, I have the same problem with Mockingbirds and with Thrashers. They will peck at all my fruit - citrus, stone fruit, figs. I have had success with mylar strips. My yard looks ridiculous, but at least I'm keeping fruit from the birds. Squirrels, however, are a different issue. I have resorted to poison bait stations as no amount of shooting with a pellet gun or humane trapping (and we have to then dispatch with the squirrels, as it is illegal to trap and release them here in San Diego county), has not made a dent in our ridiculous ground and tree squirrel population. It is a battle every year for stone fruit. We cannot have cats outside here because of our high coyote population. The cat would be gone in a day. Even though we have a VERY high number of predators here - hawks, kites, falcons, eagles, Great Horned owls, Barn owls, foxes, weasels, bobcats, coyotes, roadrunners, snakes galore (at least 4 or 5 different kinds), we still have a huge squirrel and rat problem. I even have a Barn own house on my property (which I think was used this year, haven't taken it down to check, but have a resident Barn owl we see often in the evening). Actually, one of my three Aussies has become the official "squirrelinator", having gotten 3 of them over the last 3 months. He is really smart and REALLY quick. Patty S....See MoreTricks to keep pots moist
Comments (25)The primary ingredient in most potting soil is peat. Its acidity makes it bacteria and fungus resistant, so seedlings won't get damping-off. While it holds water like a sponge, when it does dry out it is difficult to re-wet. Water flows around the outside of the soil, only wetting the surface. You generally have to submerge the entire pot in a container to get the root ball soaked. I tell everyone to add coir to potting soil. Coir refers to all the fibers from the coconut husk, but for gardening it refers to short fibers that have been processed to break them down and remove natural salts. Also known as COCO PEAT it's available as bricks or bales, and looks very similar to peat once expanded. Coir holds more water than peat, and water soluble nutrients can be added when a brick or bale is being moistened. It is also a sterile medium though its pH is less acid than peat (5.5-6.8 vs. 3.6-4.5). Most important for hot, arid climates is that coir is easy to re-wet. It is also considered a renewable resource compared to peat. Search online for "garden coir for sale" to find numerous outlets. It may also be found at local nurseries, but avoid the LUMPY, FIBROUS type more suited for orchid growing....See MoreShouldn't the inspector have found a rodent INFESTATION?
Comments (21)"When we looked inside the closet, it was obvious of a problem, even if it was hidden (former owner tried to paint over it). So we had a mold test done and it was determined that we had a toxic mold. A cleaning company came in to give an estimate on the clean up and discovered the mold came from a leak in the roof and that mold was running from the roof to the bottom floor or a 2 story unit. Since the homeowner didn't want to help with paying for clean up, we backed out of the deal. Since then, we've been very leary of home inspectors. I suppose most are good and anyone is capable of making a mistake, but this was kind of major and in areas he should have caught." Yes and no. First and foremost, inspecting for mold is outside the scope of a home inspection...both by nationally accepted standards, and most if not all licensing regs. That said, unless the contract stated that an inspection for mold is included, there is no reason to expect otherwise. Now, that said, a reputable HI will note if he observes anything that COULD be mold...and advise the buyer to have it tested. However, without testing, no HI should equivocally state that something is mold....as there is no way to know for certain what it is until it is tested...even if it appears to be pretty obvious. In addition, although many HI's do inspect and test for mold, most do so after taking a meaningless 8 hour "mold" seminar. However, true qualification for mold testing involves the knowledge of testing protocol...which is far more complex than taking a couple of samples and sending them to the labÂand far more complex than what is taught in the 8 hour "mold is gold" seminars. Be that as it may, mold IS gold for many HI'sÂ..as mold inspection is basically unregulated pretty much everywhere...so, many take advantage of that...as well as the unwitting consumer...and charge a bundle to perform testing that they are not truly qualified to perform. Best bet is to hire a reputable environmental firmÂ.. with a documented track record in proper testing protocol to be assured of the most reliable result. Last but not least, the HI should have noticed the roof leak IF there was visible evidence at the time of inspection. If he did not, you do deserve an answer as to why. The best way to not be leery of home inspectors, is to educate yourself on exactly what is and isn't included in the inspection. Know the limitations. If your state regulates the profession, find out what your state requires. When choosing an inspector, get referrals form unbiased people who donÂt have a stake in the sale (such as a real estate agent) ask friends, your attorney, etc. Above all, check references. This is your best chance of finding a competent and ethical inspector. Otherwise, its catch as catch can, and buyer beware....See MoreTrick to keep drills from burning?
Comments (10)A couple of posts have already mentioned this more or less, but I wanted to emphasize the point about sawdust jamming the teeth. If the spaces between the teeth gets packed with dust, which can happen very quickly if the teeth are designed to be able to cut metal, then your saw stops acting like a saw and acts more like a spinning punch, which is bad. Twist drills evacuate chips fairly well because the chips are pushed back out of the hole through the helical grooves around the sides of the bit. Holesaws inherently lack this evacuation route. Instead of just leaning on the drill and trying to cut it all in one go, try cutting for 5 or 10 seconds, then pulling the saw out of the cut to clear the dust, then cut again for another few seconds. You can feel through the body of the drill motor whether the drill is actually cutting or spinning in place. When you stop feeling the drill bite into the wood and start feeling it slip without forward progress, pull it out and clear it....See MoreJasdip
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