There's a lot you CAN learn in the forum, but you don't need to knock yourself out trying to learn everything in order to get the satisfaction you're looking for in return for your efforts. All you need is a good soil, the right light & temperature, a sound nutritional supplementation program, and you have a very good shot at turning yourself into a pretty darn good grower. Some books or authors would have you believe that every plant is different and each needs its own specific care regimen in order to thrive. While some plants do indeed need some specialized care or treatment, a huge % of what you're likely to grow all respond favorably to the SAME treatment. I think a 1:1:1:1 mix of screened ingredients is workable, and I think the irregular surface of the ingredients will really help to keep the perlite from tending to migrate to the top of the mix. Even if it did move toward the top, it's presence in the soil isn't really necessary to maintaining the soil's structure or to holding on to nutrients, so if it is/isn't in the soil or whether it's at the top or thoroughly incorporated probably isn't cause for any loss of sleep. I suggested 2:3, Turface:grit, because Turface screened through insect screen has a lot of particles under .100 in size, which means that as they nestle between the grit particles they have the potential to create a PWT. Since a good part of what the gritty mix has to offer centers around the elimination of a PWT, the 2:3 ratio will help guard against any negatives associated with perched water. That's just how my mind works - I'm dot obsessive about it, but I don't like PWTs that can be avoided, and any that ARE in play ..... I like to minimize their impact. If you're going to use FP, don't use the gypsum or Epsom salts. If you're using a soluble fertilizer, like MG 24-8-16 or 12-4-8 that doesn't contain Ca/Mg, you'll need to cover those bases somehow. I like incorporating CRFs as opposed to broadcasting on the surface, but there's a lot of evidence that broadcasting is better - so you decide. I figure that since CRF release of nutrients is driven by temp, the release rate would be more even if the product is incorporated. Al

Some things to consider: * I don't know what USDA zone you're in, but your plant is right next to the radiator. As the radiator warms the room air, the relative humidity of the newly warmed air drops precipitously, so much so that the air becomes drier than the air in the Sahara Desert ...... and this holds true even if you have a humidifier in the room. So that's a problem. * Your plant is in a cache pot. If you're not emptying the cache pot every time you water, your plant is sitting in the salt-laden effluent (waste water) that exits the drain hole. This is a problem on several fronts. It causes soil saturation that leads to drought stress; it causes an increase in dissolved solids (salts) that makes water uptake and movement throughout the plant difficult; it raises media pH; and it compounds the low relative humidity issue in the immediate vicinity of the radiator. At a minimum, your plant's pot should sit above any effluent collecting in the cache pot. * Dave asked, "How often and how much are you watering? How are you insuring its time to water?" The question is so important it's worthy of repeating, so I'll ask that you answer, too; and, I suggest you read about using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. More on that below. * The symptoms aren't consistent with what minor stress might be associated with a move. Generally, leaf loss due to a new home is related only to the leaf loss that might occur as a result of diminished photo load (light intensity, or in some cases - duration of exposure), though a move during cold weather can be immediately damaging such that leaf loss might occur within 1-2 weeks. Low temps and especially sudden exposure to cold drafts often causes leaf loss within a week or two, but usually leaves are still green when they fall - unless they showed necrotic areas before exposure to chill. This should be helpful (click link). Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

After root pruning, plant have to regrow roots and root hairs using stored energy. It's critical time that new roots still young and vulnerable. Moving or disturb the plant should be avoided. When you move and clean the plant leaves, new roots seem broken so the plant have to regrowing them again with less stored energy, so the upper part of the tree (leaf n stem) will suffer since the energy left only enough to develop roots, no longer enough to maintain leaves vitality. I have no other way except foliar feeding on case like this. Foliar feeding is suply nutrients directly to the leaves so they able to photosynthesis and produce energy. You can googling more about foliar feeding. Plenty usefull information on the Internet about this method.

with browning leaves.. it was previously stressed ... so you stressed it more with repotting ... you are going to have to just let it settle down and see what happens in the next 4 to 6 weeks ... and in the meantime.. just water it properly ... it may lose all its leaves.. but there may be a good chance.. if the repotting solved some issue.. that it can releaf im wondering why you didnt up pot ... or if you did.. how small the previous pot was ...