Thnik of gravity. Water only goes down. Unless your kitchen waste falls through piping which you can intercept at a point LOWER than the one you are planning for the basement, your friend is correct. Do you have an ejector pump in your basement? If so, you might be able to run piping around the perimeter to meet up with it. That would save cutting your concrete floor. Ours runs on the peremiter walls. A diagram of our basement is posted at "My Page". Though it does not specifically indicate plumbing, I believe you can get the idea. Only need to drop 1/8" per foot of run, so you can carry the waste a long distance.

Hi Anna: A possible solution for your triple sink is 2 completely separate pipes, traps, and faucets. Each DW could be connected to different pipes and would not back up into the wrong sink. 2 faucets will give you better separation and you won't need an extra-long faucet that can reach all three bowls. The treif garbage disposal in its own small basin will have to connect up with one of sink pipes, but that could occur lower than the DW connection and the water from a disposal backup is not normally hot enough to treif up the sinks. Have you considered putting 2 single sinks next to each other with a vertical divider rising several inches above the counter in between? You could put a garbage disposal in each sink and have everything separate while using about the same amount of space as a triple sink. Similarly, if your layout permits,you could separate 2 sinks just enough to deal with splashover. With an 18" or 24" separation, you could put one of the DW's between the sinks. Other posters have already noted the desirability of using metal sinks in a kosher kitchen. B'Hatzlacha, Ellene

your thinking is about lowering the risk of cross-contamination to a certain threshold, deemed right. It is impossible to reduce the risk to Absolute Zero and any discussion of that leads to ludicrous scenarios, never likely, but still conceivable. The threshold is one that you will call "good" or that a kashrut inspector will call good, if he (or she) gets into that level of the building process. There are many ways to achieve what you seek, all leaving some possibility open that water sullied with compound A will come up the drain of compound B sink. If Even if a separate P trap were to be installed on all five drains (2 DW drains, 3 sink drains) it is conceivable (but almost never going to happen). Perhaps you'll consider a "proper for kashrut" preventative operation like closing the strainer on the appropriate sink, and cleaning it if you see the seal was not made. Since sink drains can be deemed to be dirty, perhaps you will decide to use grids on the sink bottom. Some sinks have grids suspended in space above the sink bottom (they rest on ledges on the side walls, e.g. Franke sinks like the Orca, and e.g.2. you can solder a ledge on a stainless steel sink), and this may be deemed one step closer to fine. If your sole concern is about dirty water when it is hot warm or lukewarm, then lengthening the drain can resolve that single concern. How you do it will depend on your licensed and insured Master Plumber and his professional decisions given your space and your DWV constraints (your plumbing's venting, your DFU's, and your pipe diameters downstream of the five drains). Only he (or she) knows for sure. Not a repair plumber who may often be called upon to work on P traps and drains. HTH -david

Good morning all. I am plumbing a new bath in my basement and have some questions regarding size of distribution/supply pipes. The following is existing: (1)DWV system is in place (2)water supply is a private well (3)Water enters house via a 1" rubber hose and connects to a 1"brass pipe and anti back-flow device (4)this 1" line goes to Amtrol pressure tank and exits tank via a 3/4" copper distribution run with a whole house filter close to the beginning of this run (5)the 3/4" pipe runs approx. 12' towards the center of the house and then starts to branch off to kitchen, 1 bath, laundry, boiler, hose bib, AND doubles back to water heater all with 1/2" copper and exits the water heater also with 1/2" copper and supplies hot water (obviously) to fixtures requiring it (6)house is small - 24x30' (7) new bath is 29' from water supply entry point into house and also 29' from water heater. OK. Now my questions. (A) Shouldn't the line to and from the water heater be a 3/4" distribution size (as is the cold)? If so, should I upgrade it to 3/4 or leave it as is? (B)Should the distribution pipe from the existing 3/4" cold run to the new bath also with 3/4" and then go to 1/2" branch lines or should I use 1/2" branch lines all the way from existing to new bath? Whatever is done with the new cold (3/4" or 1/2") will be done with the new hot run. (C) I assume that running branch lines down from ceiling to new fixtures (via 1/2") is OK and won't adversely affect water pressure to a significant degree (D)I plan to run new supply line first to shower then branch of it to sink and toilet. Is this OK? (E)Finally, when complete, farthest run from entry point/water heater will be 30' as the crow flys and a total of approximately 70' total pipe run each hot/cold (not including hose bib or boiler) and will service 2 vanity sinks, 1 kitchen sink, 1 tub/shower, 1 shower only, 2 toilets, 1 washer, 1 hose bib, 1 boiler. Will this work? Appreciate any advice you can give me. Hope I've given enough info (probably too much)