I thought I'd give you an update. We removed the mulch around the condenser unit and found that it was already on a pad. We excavated around the pad and were able to lift it up enough to put some small rocks under the low side to level it. The existing pad was pretty low compared to the ground around it, so my husband and I lifted the condenser unit a couple inches while my 8-year-old daughter shoved a new pad over the old one. All the connections were on the high side, and I don't think they were disturbed by the tiny bit we moved them to put a new pad under there. Thanks again for all the input!

I am taking your advice and going to do the HVAC on my own. I've had 2 authorized dealers take a look so far. Will have 2 more. I've gotten one proposal back and the second guy will do one but his will be time-consuming and I hesitate to have him put a lot of work into the proposal when I'm still interviewing others. He said he would not be happy if he didn't get the job. I can't promise he'd be the one. NOTE: No load calculations were ever done on this house for heat or AC. I just learned this yesterday - 1 year into the job. The second AC dealer wants to do load calculations but, as I said, we've come so far and have limitations. Would it be worth his time? The first proposal goes like this: Remove incorrect air handlers and install 2 Trane variable speed Hyperion AH 2 Trane 2-stage SL16i condensers install Honeywell control system - digital programmable with WIFI replace all flex ducts on 2nd floor (I believe they're 6 or 7") with new 10" round flex with larger difusers Install 2nd return in ceiling on 2nd floor, redo existing return ducts The total cost of all this is $14,650. He also proposed installing a secondary heat source. We have Viega radiant heat panels in the floors but there is some concern that it will be adequate given the level of quality of the HVAC work and a poor experience with the electrical sub. There are 4 options for supplementary heat proposed: 1. Hot water coils in the AHs: $3400 2. Electric heaters: $700 plus cost of running electric lines 3. Carrier Heat pump (would mean using carrier equipment, not Train) $2900on top of AH price 4. Carrier Infinity 20 greenspeed heat pump - $5400 on top of AH price I have no specific model numbers from him - I suppose he doesn't want me to be able to compare prosals directly. Any reactions?

Look at the specs for the pump you intend to buy; should have ample 'lift' (greater than 9'). You could size it by eye, as they are designed to empty when full. Take careful note of the wiring of the old unit, as some pumps have extra wires (beside power), wired to the furnace, to shut it off if the pump will not empty (safety switch). If yours is so equipped, good idea to replace with same type. If you have a high efficiency furnace (90+%), you want an acid resistant pump. V

It would probably be a good idea to call repair service and then have him explain it all to you, and watch carefully, so maybe it would be something you could do, if it happened again. Water running on to electric is not a good idea, so I would call repair service, sooner rather than later. It is unfortunate when things happen when you are all excited and just moving in, but, it does sometimes. First night in one of my homes, I woke up to go to the bathroom, and stepped in water. The hot water heater had sprung a leak. After turning off the water, my hubby and I spent the rest of the night with a wet vac, cleaning up the mess.