Thinset is useful for that purpose but it is hard to do. You would have to have a gauge like the aluminum screed and level and therefore shimmed rails to run it on. Then with a thicker thinset use a mallet tapping method to bring tiles level. They will rock in the thinset and tilt, which is hard to deal with. Easier to use a rented diamond toothed concrete floor buffing machine and work it level first.

But, how about the idea of varying the thickness of the tile cement as a way to end up with the tiles all leveled?

How big are the tiles, what size spacing? Is it just a slope or are there multiple high points? A slope is fine if you are ok with a floor that slopes, multiple high points or a high point in the middle of the foor are a bit more tricky. Have you ever laid tile before? The John Bridge forums have tons of experts that post and lots of useful information.

Not gonna happen without an expensive tile expert, and that obviously ain't you. Plus, thinset shrinks as it dries, and you go to park a car on that, and get busted tiles the first time. You'd need an old fashioned mud set job, with a not quite retired at the top of his game even more expensive tile professional. With a lot more expensive materials.

Why you want something like tiles instead of an industrial epoxy is it's own head scratcher to begin with.

We have a vinyl tile floor my wife parks her hotrod on. Its not a superheavy car but they have held up 15 years because straight in, straight out, no real twisting wheels. Its a Porsche so those tires are most definitely the hot soft and sticky type.

Seriously go to Home Depot and look at the concrete prep disks. They are like 24" across and would be good for high spot removal. Sand it smooth with diamond teeth and electric motor, beverage in hand. Foundation is everything.

If all you're doing is parking cars, are you sure it needs leveling?

I've never used any of the "self-leveling" pour on compounds, but have you researched them?

Come to think of it, I have tiled a couple of cement floors before, one quite flat and level, and I put the absolute minimum tile cement down - too little probably - but at least the tiles were level. Another floor I tiled, as far as I remember, I used much more tile cement, maybe around 2 cm (in fact it might have been a mortar mix). Anyway, I was happy with the end result, and the tiles seemed quite level.

So, with the garage floor, I will probably just level the tiles as I go - I don't see why it should be any more difficult than previous tiling I did.

I did shave down some high points.

About why I'd prefer a level garage floor - one reason is that if I want to check the oil level in the car, I can get an accurate reading on the dip stick.

Thanks!

Oh I'm sorry - you're kidding about the dip stick, right?

No he is not. I think the same way. But really a garage needs a slope to exit liquids. Even if just for cleaning. And most self levelers are cementatious plaster at best, and the compression strength sucks as a result. I would prime and float sand mix before I used any of those because I have experienced fracture under the flooring with them.

Well sure, but a garage is such a multi function area that level becomes a component of so many projects performed there not just oil checking oil of course. And I would point out that a 1 inch threshold is not necessary if the external pad has a similiar and continueing outslope. Still - back to the point- resurfacing raises the plane anyway.

Pouring/leveling/finishing a garage floor to provide proper drainage will have no effect on oil levels in a car/truck.

I'd grind the high spots rather than trying to level tiles with thinset.

"...a 1 inch threshold is not necessary if the external pad has a similiar and continueing outslope..."

Except in wind-driven rain conditions and flooding. :-)

I build or cut drains mainly for that. I see one every now and then that was built by someone that did not appropriately consider groundwater though. I can see why it would be a problem.

Not that I'm any tiling expert - I did notice a little lippage on some of the tiles I laid with the approx 2 cm of tile cement / mortar, but seems ok in general - of course I'd prefer no lippage at all! I agree that the ideal would be to start off with a very level floor. Actually, in the end, I'm also thinking of leaving the floor as it is, untiled. We'll see.

As regards preferring a level floor, I think it makes sense that an oil reading can vary depending on whether the floor is level or not and I've seen it's recommended anyway.

The main thing I learned from laying the new floor is that I should have used better straight edges, and especially better straight and strong screeder, not thin board!

Thanks for all the feedback!

Well...a level, or near-level, garage floor means standing water for any spills or back-up into the garage. What's more important: positive water drainage or a floor designed for a dip stick?

I should go there but..no. Give me a slight slope. even 1/8" would do for me.

Self-leveling cement will handle 1/4" difference and make it level, but its expensive to use over a floor that size.

Bruce

I just buy the portland. Personally I would mix marble or other glistening mica for mi eral and use white portland. Once polished, women will gravitate to you because of the way it looks.

I agree with Bruce. I've used self leveling to cover up a horrendous subfloor I found under w2w carpetting in a tract house bedroom, but a garage might entail a lot more.

Actually, there is a bit of uphill slope to garage floor - but outside the garage door. Thanks

perfect. conrete people knew their game.