For an easy overview of the unfamiliar garden plants you're seeing, you might go to the local public library and look for books about garden plants for your region. And if you're looking for a particular book your library doesn't own, their Interlibrary Loan service can obtain it for you (sometimes charging a small fee). === "Plants for a Livable Delaware" talks about invasive plants which should be avoided, and those which might be substituted for particular invasives. http://www.dnlaonline.org/information/plants_for_delaware.php === The University of Delaware Botanic Garden has -- besides the garden itself -- plant info, events, plant sales, etc.: http://ag.udel.edu/udbg/ === NCSU has wonderful lists of garden plants in various categories (bulbs to trees, and everything in between). I've seen this information in the same format for other states, so I assume there's a USDA database which the states adapted for their particular climates. Unfortunately I could not locate such a database for Delaware (though that doesn't mean there isn't one). Anyway, NC's zones include DE's zones, so the NC database would be useful for you: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/index.html First, click on the category you're interested in. Then choose whichever arrangement of data presentation is most useful. Don't ignore the "By Scientific Name" and "By Common Name" at the top of each category.

Also, is there a $900-1200 cooktop even comparable to the Bluestar? No. The BS so massively outperforms the competition I don't think $300-$600 savings is worth it. A year from now and 10 years from now I think it will be your favorite feature in the kitchen once the wow factor of the beautiful granite countertop,glass backsplash, or new cabinents wears off.If there is only one piece of advice I could give you it would be to get the BS. If you are deadset on spending under $1k for your cooktop( because not getting it over a $300 savings is really dumb IMO)then I would look into that discontinued Caldera (CASSK305SNG) jsceva suggest. I am 99.99% certain any parts you may need in the future can be found in the generic parts market and you don't need any proprietary Caldera parts. I'm trying to decide if the Bosch SHE3ARL5UC is worth the extra $100? The reason the Bosch is quieter and uses less energy is not because it has superior sound insulation and/or superior engineering of pumps and motors. It is a European style dishwasher and it eliminates the food grinder. This requires you to use enzyme based dishwasher detergent.Most detergents available in the US are enzyme based .This breaks down food chemically instead of mechanically. This means you should not rinses dishes before placing into DW. The enzymes need something to breakdown.If there is no food residue/grease it will etch you dishes. It also requires you to clean out the filter from time to time. Most people will find a piece of this or that in there but not emulsified goo of food. The enzymes prevent this but some people find this too "ickey." Bosch SHE3ARL5UC uses less water in large part due to a "half-load" and "eco" option that many people use too aggresively. The half load option should be used for half-loads of moderately to lightly soiled dishwes or 3/4 load of lightly soiled dishes. The eco mode is for full loads of lightly soiled dishes. If you put more dishes or dishes with more dirt than you should there is not enough water to get the tub clean and the DW stinks. Once the stink is in it can be difficult to get out. Another nice feature of the Bosch is the SS tub vs the plastic one in the Whirlpool. Is the Bosch worth the extra $100? If you are willing to read the manual and follow directions then I would say yes. I would also use something like Affresh dishwasher cleaner every 6 weeks or so. German engineered appliances can be bossy. If all this sounds like you have to take a class of Dishwasher 101 and you don't want to deal with it; you just want to throw dirty dishes and soap in,turn on,and remove clean dishes I would get a Whirlpool. Maybe one in the $500 range with better insulation.

When was the house itself built? The interior design aspects are on point with the mid 1980s but the architecture is earlier mid century. I can't really picture someone building a house in that style and decorating aspects of it in late Modernism/post Modernism at the same time. I can picture someone updating a 1960-odd house this way.

Thank you all! To add some context, we are working with a custom builder and will have the architect draft our plans however, we get only two revisions upon the first draft. That is why I wanted to come in extra prepared. I'm sure our process is not like a truly custom home -- but I agree I want to leverage the expertise of the architect. Sounds like you're using the builder's "architect". I'm guessing the builder's "architect" is really a draftsman and not a LICENSED architect. Why do I say that? Because our builder basically had us work with his "architect" who turned out to be a draftsman, and a very poor one. Can you instead get your own architect? Even if the person you're using is licensed, chances are they will make it easiest for the builder and not what is best for you because he/she is "paid" by the builder. You bringing him/her your plans is not how a REAL architect works.