I believe your light conditions may be an overriding factor as to what plants will work for you or not. There are some succulents that will tolerate at least partial shade, but most salvias will not be happy nor does lavender do well in less than 6 hours of sun. This is not to say these plants can't work for at least a season or two - it is just not their preferred growing conditions so growth may be leggy and flowering sparse due to lack of direct sunlight. I'd also discourage the planting of most herbs as they tend to be full sun lovers, but hopefully the supplemental lighting will overcome the lack of natural light. Annual herbs seem to tolerate lower light situations better than perennial herbs, IME. Container gardening can be a very enjoyable experience....a bit like landscape design in miniature that can be easily changed out as plants fade, grow too big or your tastes dictate. Certainly a lot easier and cheaper than inground planting! I do a lot of container design and always try to include something evergreen in the mix to provide the same structure and year round interest that evergreens provide to the inground landscape. Depending on container size, you may want to create compositions of multiple plants in a single container and/or use a single plant as a specimen - these work well for annuals and provide a lot of color without disrupting the more permanent plantings when the annuals fade for the season or go out of flower. Focal points, plant forms, fillers, textural contrast and colors (whether from flowers or foliage) will all play a part in the design just as they do in the broader outdoor landscape. And any plant can be grown in a container as long as you size the plant to the container appropriately and provide proper ongoing care. This may involve periodic repotting and root pruning of larger species. I'd look to whatever plants your local nursery/garden center offers that are suited to part shade and make your choices accordingly. January may not be the best time for this, however :-) Select from flowering annuals and perennials as well as small shrubs and trees, both deciduous and evergreen - I could definitely see a dwarf Japanese maple included in your collection as a focal point! And if you need help to compose your design, there are all sorts of publications that focus on container design - Fine Gardening publishes annual special interest editions on this topic that are excellent. For a very rough rule of thumb in container design, think in 3's for multiple plant compositions: a "thriller" plant as a focal point (something dramatic or upright/more vertical), "fillers" to fluff out the middle ground and "spillers" to trail, cascade and soften the edges. For long term viability of container plantings, it is recommended to select plants that are hardy to at least one zone lower than your own....and more is better :-) This of course does not apply to annuals or single season plants. And proper container soil is a very important consideration, as is irrigation and fertilization. You may want to check out the Container Gardening forum here on GW for additional helpful tips.

Thanks windowsonwashington. I did a little more research today and am starting to lean towards the Marvin full line door with LoE-366, prairie 9 grids and the integrated blinds. I was never a big fan of in the glass mini blinds, and I like how they've come out with the Levolor style push/pull fabric shades that sit behind the glass. Might end up with sticker shock when I get a quote, but thankfully only have to buy one door at the moment. Will check out Andersen and Provia as well. Not familiar with Provia, but I was thinking that either Andersen or Pella had a door that was similar. Simonton has been great for the windows ... no complaints ... but I think I'm going to pass on them for the patio door. Just seems like there are better options available. Thanks again for the feedback. John

Does it have a garage as well as a carport? A metal roof would be modern. If the brick is cracked, have a pro stonemason take a look at it. Have your inspection report ready for the stonemason to compare his findings with. The landscaping needs a professional plan. An arborist can walk the property with you for an hour to tell you about the trees' care and siting, including the best time of year to prune them. In the meantime, trim the shrubs to a foot or so below the height of the window sills and a foot away from the walls to let air circulate better.

Agree with one larger dining space. This would free up some needed space for a larger family room. Do you use the living room? Do you have a need for a small office or away room? The mudroom does seem a bit awkward. Better access to the covered porch from main living areas would be nice as mentioned. But, with the back facing north, you also don't want to block more windows, otherwise it will feel dark. Some added windows on the side of your house would be great for some additional light into those spaces. I know you had said, the laundry is in the basement, but I might plumb for them in a mudroom, especially if you're going through the trouble of remodeling. On that same thought with the powder room, maybe consider a shower as well if you plan to stay in this house for a while. Might be a time where stairs proves to be difficult for any number of reasons. For instance, if an adult or even a child has a broken foot or leg, having an accessible bathroom on the first floor would be a benefit, not to mention for selling. Good to really evaluate your needs and how you want to live in the home. Make your architect aware of all this, conversation is key and should be a team effort. If you honestly don't feel she is listening, then yes, maybe you find another. It's your home and you're money. Might also post in building a home forum for advice or critique. The kitchen forum would be helpful once you have worked out some layouts. Good luck!