I've never been a big fan of the weeds as indicators concept. I think part of the reason is that I spilled some 21-0-0 fertilizer (years ago, when I was using it) and it killed the grass in that area. The first thing that popped up there was black medic, supposedly a sign of nitrogen deficiency. I'm now convinced that clover (or black medic) popping up is a sign that you had seeds there ready to germinate. What do you mean when you say your soil is slightly sweet? I think I've heard of soils being described as sweet or sour, but I don't really know what it means. I'm not a big fan of spreading sulfur over a lawn. My soil is alkaline, but spreading the sulfur on the surface never seemed to help. I've targeted specific plants by drilling holes around the drip line with a bulb auger, pouring sulfur in the holes, then filling back up with soil. If it's spread on the surface, too much of it goes into the atmosphere. For a large surface area like a lawn, you'll probably have better results just trying to increase the organic content of the soil.

I suggest you get as many quotes as you can. The more quotes you get, the more educated you become. Make sure that the model numbers of both the condenser (outside unit) and air handler are written on the quote. This will avoid the "bait and switch". Your true cooling costs are determined by the Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) and not SEER, much to the misunderstanding of many people. Whichever SEER system you get, you want a 12 EER minimum. In my opinion, a 14 SEER / 12 EER offers you the best combination of purchase price and true operating costs. A good installation is more important than the brand name. For example, a properly installed Goodman will perform much better than a poorly installed Trane. Equipment is properly sized using a heat gain/loss calc called a Manual J. Most contractors do not do it. Consider a PARTS AND LABOR warranty for your peace of mind. Good luck. __________________ Gary G

Doing what you like with more than "cosmetic choices" is a freedom that only someone who is pretty well funded can take. If it only involves painting your walls passionate purple and filling it with tiki room furniture, then that's a low cost risk that almost anyone can take, because that's easily rectified if your spouse loses a job and you can't afford the home any more. If (true story) you've taken a 3 bedroom home 2 bath home and used one of the bedrooms to expand the master, used another to make a walk in closet and combined the two bathrooms into one, then you've done what you like and what works for you---but at a SIGNIFICANT detriment to the value of the home. A 1 bedroom 1 bath home simply will not appraise the same as a 3/2. And then, if you're forced to sell the home because of a health change, you're really going feel those dollars lost because of "doing what you liked". However, if the home is paid for, and retirement is very well funded, perhaps it's not as big of a "sting" to you to lose 200K in home value. That's the economic freedom I'm talking about. And, most Americans are 3 missed paychecks away from poverty rather than flush enough to be able to take the chance of adversely affecting the largest asset that they own adversely. So, "do what you like", but keep the "bones" mainstream would be my advice. And never extend yourself financially for anything too personal. Because the moment you commit yourself financially to those permanant personal choices is the moment you risk losing it all. No one is immune to the economy!

Plllog, I had that very notion going on Kitchens lol! Divotdiva, that's a big reason I'm getting the Bosch. I was at my SIL's and said something about running the DW, and she said "it's running now." I was standing right in the kitchen and couldn't hear it. g5spark, that's a good question. The place I'm getting it from is a huge appliance dealer so hopefully they are prepared for common modifications. I just looked and I think it just be hard-wired. Nothing is plugged in to the outlet under the sink, the disposal is hard-wired, and I can't see the DW wiring, must be under or behind.