Your rod should be moveable unless you have it permanently mounted. If moveable just lower the rod so that your curtain is fully contained in the tub. I always use a double shower curtain on that type situation. A heavy vinyl or plastic on the inside and a fabric on the outside, it catches any splash out that might get past the plastic one in the tub. Any time the curtain is allowed to go outside of the tub water will get on the floor and can seep through grout or cracks etc. If there is visible water damage it is likely more severe than you can see. I have never seen an outward curved glass enclosure. To me it sounds like you have the rod placed too high which is keeping your curtain too high and allows it to get out of the tub. Keeping a small open area in the curtain at the shower head wall helps to keep the shower curtain from moving around as much because it allows the air movement to flow more naturally. It actually becomes a little bit of a weather reaction inside a shower and keeping that outside air flowing into the shower is really important to maintain a good air situation and not have the shower curtain blowing in and sticking to you. For tubs that are not metal using the little clip on suction cups is a good alternative to keep them in the tub. You can find that kind of stuff at like Bed Bath and Beyond. I also always have a good quality rubber backed shower rug in the bathroom at the tub so any water gets to the rug not the floor.

When did the fellow measure this job? The measuring should take place after the tile is installed. Most times you see plus or minus maybe 3/16". Depends on size and thickness of glass. Clear shims take the weight until the silicone sets up. Removing them will not make any change in appearance than slicing them. With 3/4" gaps I would be telling the boys to take it back and try try again. Who's glass guy? Yours or the builder? I've used the same guy for 14 years. I have sent back one piece in all that time. I have one client who dislike my guy and other than that a perfect record. These glazers should be using levels and plumb lines to do the job right. To be perfect the fix panes should go in first and then doors measured.

Hi my bathroom is the same dimensions as yours, and the entry door is 23". After we installed the tile, the interior dimensions got a bit smaller due to the thickness of the tile etc, which is why we have 52" wall to wall at the shower threshold. Think about access to your valves when you decide on your shower door design. We couldn't move ours to the opening opposite the shower opening since a) it's an exterior wall, not recommended b) we would have had to build the wall out and would have lost space inside the shower. We couldn't move our toilet or sink, this is an apartment building.

Hi Home Reborn, Thanks for your input. I had a feeling that was the problem. I even told the contractor that a few days ago but he brushed off my concerns and blamed the design of the door. So then I started looking at the metal strip more closely and that's when it hit me that the metal strip might be shaped that way because it closes up the gap between the curb and the bottom edge of the door. Thanks for clarifying that they actually got it right. Unfortunately for me, it's already too late to fix the curb issue because the entire bathroom is 90% done. I've been using a towel at the base of the glass door to keep water from leaking out and it seems to be working but I can't keep doing this forever. I was wondering if a half round style threshold would close the gap between the stone and the bottom edge of the door. He could caulk it in place where I put the towel (which you can sort of see in the original post). It's not the best way to fix the problem but I don't want to undo all the work and pay him more money when it was his fault to begin with.