Ive purchased probable 200+ crosses in the last three or so years this is what I look for... 1. Be a professional, doesnt matter you are not in full time business, try to send items out on a quick basis and be communicative as possible. If easier for you, do sales ending on 1-2 days and ship every tuesday or something. 2. PLEASE make sure you have no doubts about seed viabilty, dont send out seeds that our moldy, squishy to the touch. Make sure you allow all of your seed pods to ripen to maturity before you crop them. Dont try to cheet there, no matter what you do. It takes me one year to figure out who the better sellers are, I usually try a seller once or twice , I spent 50 bucks on one seller this year and none NONE of her crop of seeds she sent has been viable. Im not impressed, I use the same storage method on all of my seeds, directly into the fridge when I get them. She is the only seller with 0 percent viabily on multiple packs Ive recieved. 3. Wrinkled or raisend or plump or fat /small or large, USUALLY doesnt make much of a difference, its just in their genetic code of those parents to produce it that way. However, sometimes the smallest seeds are not viable, sometimes they are. 4. ACCEPT paypal. Some people dont like it, buts its soooo much easier for buyers, it takes them a few seconds and they are done. Now if its a primo cross, Ill write the check. 5. Make acceptable refunds/new ships, Ive recieved some moldy bad crosses this year, the sellers took care of it ASAP. Im willing to offer a digital pic of the bad seeds if need be of what they sent, thats just reasonable. 6. Be careful with your crosses, do a little bit of research, THERE is a pleathera of Stamile / kinnebrew crosses, I jump at the hanson, mason, carpenter , korth crosses when I seem them. Too many people selling the same thing, of course alot of those parents are nice, but its also nice to see different hybridizers being used. 7. dont be afraid to use your own seedlings, sometimes they are just as nice, just provide accurate descriptions and pictures of them. Try to stay away from blurry pics, it doesnt help the sale. 8. Follow this patteren and people will rebuy from you time and again, I make a list of the best sellers IMO every year. Every year 3-4 are usually the same near the top, top notch, professional and passionate sellers, who do not cheat people. RUBY, RICH, YARDMAN, ZJILDGEN, Scooter30 Ive never had a problem with them, with any of thier seeds, always VERY high germination rate. Ive had others who are very similiar and if I keep getting good results will get my business again. This is all JUST "IMO" Stuff , other buyers might have different experiences, but this is my honest opionion on sellers. Hope it helps. Silverkelt

At the direction of a local daylily grower, I have planted fresh seeds, maybe 4-5 days out of the pod, directly in cups with Miracle Grow seed starter. They grew fine, but that was summer. I also put a large number of dried seeds in a solution of 1/2 gallon of distilled water mixed with 6 tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide, refrigerated them for three weeks, and began to plant them by two different methods: 1) professional potting soil placed in plastic bins with drilled drain holes, and 2) first putting the seeds in a dark closet, still in solution, for a week or more. Once they sprouted, I sowed them in plastic drink cups with the Miracle Grow. Of the seeds that I planted directly from the refrigerator into the professional potting soil, few ever sprouted and grew. I think the potting soil was too heavy and coarse for DL seeds. All but seven of the seeds placed in the warm, dark closet sprouted and grew. Transplanted to the field bed in September, they are now happy and healthy young daylilies and I expect some will bloom this spring. I started to throw away the seven seeds that did not sprout. Instead, out of curiosity, I put them back in the solution and stashed them away in the refrigerator, suspecting that they might have needed a longer time to chill. Months went by. On Feb. 1, I found that one seed had sprouted while still in the refrigerator. I wasn't sure if it would grow or not, but I planted it in a cup, anyway, and put a loose ziplock bag over it to help keep the seed starter medium moist. I set it in the kitchen where I could keep close watch over it, but nothing happened. Again, I started to just toss it, but decided to move it into a small room that is kept warm for one of our dogs. I watched it for a few days, and it didn't look like it was going to do anything. I forgot about it until yesterday. When I went to check on it, I discovered it had sprouted and was about two inches high already. I realize some of you can plant the seeds outdoors with success. Here in East Texas, fire ants carry flower seeds back to their nests. Some years back, out of 5,000 red poppy seeds, I ended up with two plants, and one of those was growing out of a fire ant mound. I'm sure it depends on where you live and what kind of critters and insects you have. I'd never trust a valuable daylily seed to nature where I live. If you have a lot of daylily seeds, and it is immaterial if you lose a few, it certainly would be a lot easier just to plant them directly in the ground. I may reach that point one day, but I'm a long way from that for now. I have made one other interesting observation about seedlings. The transplanted seedlings that were placed 6" or so apart in the field bed have been growing vigorously. In the section of bed that we thinned, those left in the bed are growing, but not nearly so well. Those removed and transplanted to a fresh new bed, with long-acting top of the line fertilizer and all sorts of other good stuff, are the slowest growing. It appears that young daylily seedlings, like many animals, may thrive better when they have to compete. Nancy

I was afraid that heat was causing my problems. Most of my plants are in the shade atleast 6 hours of the day after the first of June. The ones that I use the most are in light dappled shade more than that. I know I lose bud quantity by not being in more sun but since I'm fighting the heat, I figured the shade from my big old oaks would help. This year our weather was really freaky. It was so cool in April and the first of May that I didn't start having blooms until the last week of May. I usually have some the first week in May and by the second week, I'm getting around 100 blooms a day. So, the blooms were late and then, Blammm!! It goes from 40 at night to 95 in the day and the lows only in the 70s. I dare not even try to explain how high the humidity was. Next year, I'm going to be up before dawn putting on pollen. I hate getting up early, but I hate worse working 4 hours everyday for nothing. No, I don't freeze my pollen. I leave it in the vials, in my cool home until I get ready to use it. I don't know the science behind pollen, so I hope pollen doesn't "die" for the lack of a better word??? I did freeze some the first year, but it would sweat in the vials before I could use it and this just didn't work for me. My blooms usually don't have fluffy pollen until around 10am. The ones in the early morning sun fluff up first and then the ones in the shade will be ready to gather by the time I finish gathering the ones in the sun. It's amazing, the little bitty bees can sniff out dry pollen the second it gets ready and they are gone with it before I can get to it!! I use the little light weight hair nets to keep the bees off if they really get to greedy. I sure appreciate the feed back. I thought maybe you had a magic potion to hold the pollen to the pistol or something when you said you were getting such high success. I even wondered if some were wetting the pistol since I see so many photos made with water showing on the petals. Ya'll made me feel some better. Now, I'm going to work on getting my plants in good shape for next year. I need to repot about 300 pots and it will probably take atleast 600 pots to put them into. Sooo I have a lot of potting to do. Any recommendations on good fertilize. I'm using Mircle Grow garden soil in my pots and topping them off with mini pine bark mulch and using MG slow release fertilze. It gets expensive to repot this way, but when you think about paying $50 for one fan, using $3 worth of soil to put it in, isn't outrageous. I just haven't been able to pay $250 for one fan. I'd have to sleep with it to make sure the ______!!! voles didn't eat it. While I'm asking, what's your favorite parents this year? I'm going to purchase about 10 plants later this year, and I'm wanting to get the best pod builders I can. One more question: When the bud count is listed in the description, does this mean the total buds on all scapes for the year?? I have never seen a scape with 50 buds on it. I do good to get 15, most of mine is 8 to 10. I do have some that say they should have 35 - 40. Have a great day, Mona

Hi Judith... it is hard to say exactly what your soil needs without a soil test - you can use Texas A&M University (AgriLife Extension). I live in between Dallas and Fort Worth, and the test really helped to identify what I needed to add, and what I needed to leave out (I needed tons of nitrogen and iron). Once you get your soil going, I would HIGHLY suggest adding worms. They will keep your soil strong aerated. Good drainage is necessary, so the green sand is proabably a good idea if you have clay and/or black gumbo. Be sure to mix your original soil into all the amendments(rototill), otherwise the plants will grow shallow roots to stay in the "nice" soil on top of your difficult soil underneath. Hope this helps some...