Pattern sizes vs. ready to wear sizes

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

I could use some advice on commercial pattern sizing …

I decided I needed to make some lightweight sleeveless cotton shirts, as I couldn’t find 100% cotton in the stores. I need to look nice but still be cool, as I sell my work outdoors at art fairs all summer.

I have not sewn any clothing in at least 25 years, though I have kept my hand in with other projects, mostly household; draperies, etc. I’d call my skills intermediate. When I still made clothing I did some pretty complicated things like dress blazers with linings.

So it’s been a long time since I bought patterns. I used to just buy what ever size I was. Patterns didn’t come in 5+ sizes printed on one sheet then. But that was 25 years and the same number of pounds ago.

I bought 3. All are for sleeveless blouses / shirts, 2 fitted with front and back darts, one flowy. I was all ready to lay out and start cutting yesterday, when I read the sizes on the packages.

In ready to wear I wear a 12 to 14 or a Large, sometimes a medium depending on the darts. I am small busted but have a large back and shoulders. I am bigger at the waist and hips but figure that’s not relevant for doing tops only.

When I checked the sizes on these patterns, according to the bust size on the fitted New Look pattern, I am an 18! I would swim in a ready to wear 18. In the flowy McCalls pattern I am a 20! The 6 panel fitted Burda pattern lists sizes but no body measurements, so I don’t know what to think with that one.

What do I do? I don’t want to waste time and fabric cutting out the largest size then have to take it all down. I might not even have enough fabric to cut out the largest size. I bought yardage based on being in the middle of the range, not the largest.

I thought of laying a shirt that fits well on top of the patterns and seeing where it falls, taking seam allowances and darts into consideration. Then choose the size I cut out based on that.

What do you think? Thanks for your advice.

Featured Answer

User

6 years ago

http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-complete-measurement-guide/complete-measurement-guide.html

Downloadable fit guide

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Comments (9)

c t
6 years ago
Sewing patterns have not been upgraded or modernized since about 1967. and the size Size 10 has been kind of standardized as 'average.' Average has gotten larger in 40 years. 10 is still average, but it's very different than it was 40 years ago.

My advice would be to measure something that fits you now, and trace off that size (remember to exclude the seam allowances), regardless of what the number is. I would also add an extra 3/4" or 1" to each of the side seams when I cut out, and sew wide side seams, just in case.

It's very frustrating. I made a dress this spring and took it in at least three inches even though my measurements indicated i should cut our a size 16. This is why I don't sew clothing for myself, in spite of being a professional seamstress.
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago) thanked c t
clt3
6 years ago
Yes, I agree. Measure something that fits you and choose a size based on that. If you have B cup or smaller, you should use your full bust measurement. If larger, you need to use your high bust measurement. https://www.sewlisette.com/blog/2015/03/finding-your-sewing-pattern-size/
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User
6 years ago
Measure yourself ... ready to wear sizing is all over the place and is based more on appealing to vanity than anything. There are shops where you would be wearing a 10 and a slender woman wearing a -4 !

I am small busted but have a large back and shoulders Pick the pattern according to the "high bust" (under the arms, above the breasts) because altering the upper bodice area is a PITA compared to adjusting for breast size. The less messing your do with shoulders and armholes the better.
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago) thanked User
User
6 years ago
And there is this method - measuring straight across the upper chest, which gets you a pattern that needs the fewest shoulder alterations.
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago) thanked User
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
Original Author
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Thanks to everyone! According to my measurements and the Simplicity chart, I AM a size 18. The Right Size measurement also makes me an 18. I need to just get over it and start making these shirts.

I did see in clt3's link that " In general, I’ve found that most women’s pattern sizes are approximately two dress sizes larger than their ready-to-wear size. "

That makes me feel better: that would correspond to my usual 14.

I thought of using some swedish tracing paper or thin interfacing to copy the pattern in this size for a test fit, but that really increases the work level of this project.

I think I'll start with the least fitted, flowy pattern and see where that takes me.
c t
6 years ago
RTW i could be anywhere from 8 to 12, and larger if I ventured into a bridal shop for a special occasion dress. I measure 16, sometimes it fits, sometimes it's huge. The last dress I made, that I took in 3 inches on the sides? The sleeves were barely big enough around. I don't have beefy arms, either.
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago) thanked c t
kittymoonbeam
6 years ago
You would think the time has come for a universal set of sizes. Eventually it will be metric.
stillcool
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
It's crazy. Just get some help getting your measurements together and use those measurements, only. Retailers have decreased their sizes because we keep increasing our's, lol Everyone in the fabric store's in the same boat. Your custom made clothes will fit while the retail clothes will need alterations!

Pattern sizes vs. ready to wear sizes

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c t

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Pattern sizes vs. ready to wear sizes

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