Did you harden off the plants by gradually exposing them to outside conditions? If they went from being inside next to a sunny window to straight into containers outside, it could be sun burn or wind burn. Cucumbers and zucchini don't like their roots disturbed so most people direct seed them into their permanent growing space. They grow so fast from seed, you don't really gain much by starting them inside. And you risk setting them back with transplant shock.

Early Spring whilest it's still cool is the best time to transplant your clematis..dormant is even better but since yours has awoken and still just starting you can!!..Have the new hole dug and ready..then dig out about 2 feet wide from the center and dig deep to encompass all the roots you can and move to the new planting hole..If you don't have problems with critters..I highly recommend using bonemeal in the planting hole..really helps to aid the roots and helps against transplant shock... make sure to try and plant a few inches deeper than it's previous home to ensure the roots stay moist..firm the soil very well and water deeply until the water seems to stop sinking in and STOP..it's very important to stick your finger in the soil around the clematis to make sure it stays moist during its adaption period..once you see it starting to put on new leaves then it is saying it is happy and you can resume your normal watering times...Jeanne

gardengal, My clematis keep growing and blooming until the first hard frost/freeze. For my area, that can be any time between the end of September to about the middle of October, but it happens earlier or later some years. By that time, the night temps are already low, the soil gets too cold, so the roots don't do much growing after that. I know because I planted 4 clematis in fall one year (to hold them over until spring) then dug them up in spring as soon as the ground thawed. The roots showed little to no new growth. It has been suggested that our fall season begins in the middle of August, which I can believe because the maple leaves are already starting to turn color, some years it's early August. The problem is, at that time of year, the ground is usually bone dry because most years it rarely rains in July and August. Plus it can still be hot during the day throughout August. By the time the day temps cool, the nights are already getting colder. The opportune window to transplant sometimes is so short you miss it. Just a little anecdotal info... the 2 clematis I moved from a holding area into their new spots a couple of weeks ago were cut back, and started growing almost right away; no typical lag. One has buds, the other is growing like crazy. Another.... I moved 3 group 2's last spring that weren't doing well in their location. I figured if they didn't do better this year, I'd get rid of them. All 3 are growing like crazy. What I'm trying to say is that zone 4 is so different than zone 8. The original poster needs to find out what works in her location. I know, for example, the best time to move evergreens in our area is in fall and until the ground freezes. All the landscaper tuck away the deciduous shrubs and perennials to make room for the evergreens. It's not just me and msgal from Minnesota, it's our nursery owners and landscapers.

The best time of year to move an existing clematis is while the plant is dormant before the new seasons growth begins - usually in late winter as long as the ground is not frozen. At this time of year the plant's energy is stored in the root system. Prune back the top growth to about 12 to 18 inches and dig at least a 12 inch diameter root ball as deep as possible. Mature clematis roots can reach 4 feet down into the ground so the more roots you can save, the better. It is best to dig and prepare your new location before you dig up the plant to be transplanted. Dig a large hole, and dig it deeper than needed to make some room for compost or rotted manure in the bottom. You will also want to plant the clematis two to three inches deeper than the old level. One can use a post hole digger tool to get a nice deep hole. It is best to bury one or two pairs of latent buds, leaves and all, so that the plant can sprout from under the ground. It becomes a good insurance planting policy. The buried stem will develop roots. Before you place the plant into the new hole, throw in a handful or two of bone meal or other fertilizer high in phosphate to aid in root growth (see the FAQ entitled "How to feed a clematis - choosing fertilizers" for more detailed information on the feeding requirements of clematis). Bulbtone, an organic fertilizer, can be added to the hole without fear of burning the roots. Mix the bone meal and fertilizer with compost in the bottom of the hole, fill the hole with water, and place the new plant in it's new home, submerging it in the water. Fill in around the plant with the best compost or enriched top soil you can find, and water it in. Keep the plant well watered and fertilized the first few years until a deep root system capable of supporting the plant through dry times has had time to develop. It is best to mulch a large area around the base of the plant to keep the soil moist and reduce evaporation. Watering your plant is critical to its survival!