Replacing older well-established rose with a baby. How do you do it?
needmoremulch
6 years ago
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Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How well do you do in winter, window sill growers?
Comments (19)This is a great thread! There are so many considerations for us summer out/winter indoors people. In the summer I have cattleyas, dendrobiums, oncidiums, and bulbophyllums out on a porch, with direct sun in the morning and late afternoon, and shade overhead at midday. This year I put out paphs too, on the bottom shelf where they had more shade. Everything does very well and adds a lot of growth. In the winter, they all move to a sunroom facing west but with a south exposure too. Life for my orchids improved immensely when I added Wonderlites (in the west and south windows) and big humidity trays to this set up, and it cost very little. Most winter days it is about 60% humidity, high of 80 F and low 55F. I have a tiny space heater to boost heat on really cold nights. My electric bill is just $25-30 a month. It helps that this room can be closed off to retain the humidity. I have the catts in clay pots and water about once a week. I think the humidity helps them cope with drying out completely. Another factor I think is that I choose catts that aren't seasonal bloomers but bloom at various times of the year. Originally I chose them just because I wanted to get more blooms, but I also figure they have a built-in urge to keep growing and not go dormant when the light and heat wane. They make lots of leads and lots of blooms during winter. My only basket plants are brassavolas that I water every other day. Calvin, I think your plan to cut back on water and fert until you see signs of growth is exactly the way to go. Generally I think it's important to observe the plants really closely and follow their lead. By the way I suffered from tinted windows for a month or two before I realized what was going on, but mine came with a little label that warned against using ammonia or detergent to clean them. The anti-UV tint was just a surface film that was gone with a few vigorous washings. By the way, I also remove the screens in winter as they cut down on the light. Good luck and keep experimenting! Margo...See MoreBreeders whose roses don't do well for you
Comments (19)Wow, it must be hard to make rose decisions in a place where it's hard for a rose to die, Suzy. Sometimes i'm secretly glad when a rose that really doesn't thrive in my yard has the good grace to die over the winter, so I don't have to be a rose murderer. As for the rate of failure, it's definitely a product of being a zone pusher and wanting to try something different. Plenty of people in my zone have never lost a rose because they're smart enough to only plant roses suited for their climate- imagine that! I'm more like Ingrid, in sandandsun's timely quote, that I prefer to look at winter survival as a challenge rather than the roses of a particular type (or breeder) having a specific death wish in my garden. You're all absolutely right that knowing the breeder isn't enough to judge health, survival, or any other qualities in your yard. I absolutely do the kind of trial and error experimentation that Lyn was talking about in my own yard, it's just that I haven't really come up with particular patterns for what thrives in my yard, except for the obvious ones like "lavenders and russets are usually weak" (understatement of the year) or "roses with teas in their heritage are a long shot". Rick, I admire you for checking the breeding history of the roses, and it certainly would be a more logical approach with fewer failures. I'm afraid I don't follow the breeding history or even keep track of which parents do well for me, though I have noticed that climbers with New Dawn as a parent are likely to be a good match for my yard. Wow, Nastarana, I hadn't been familiar with Jacobus as a breeder but I looked up Dream Girl, and - wowza zowie is she ever! I love those fat blooms with swirled packed petals, and it's great to hear it thrives in zone 5. Might be a nice counterpart to Nahema on my fence. You ought to share your observations with Helpmefind, since there was very limited personal information on this rose. Where did you get yours? Cynthia...See MoreDo you water established OGRs?
Comments (17)I water new plants, esp bands, once or twice a week in the heat. The second and third year about once every 10 days if no rain. If it is a hot, dry spring--when the plants are actively growing and setting blooms--I'll water a couple of times. If it is a hot, rainless summer I'll water about once a month. I put in a drip irrigation system when I fist started my garden (and everybody was a baby). Now I use it only if I am away or have expanded a bed and therefore have a lot of babies in with more etablished roses, or if I am away or too lazy to stand out there with the hose. The advantage of the hose is that it gives me time to check out each rose....See MoreRain, rain, go away! What roses do well for you in rain?
Comments (21)Oh, my -- A rose lover tries to get some useful information from other rose folk, only to be hearing about needed rain in California and a mythological definition for rain. Aren't there any other websites where you folks might "bless" others with your non-sequitarian comments? My heart does go out to the Californians along with a financial contribution of support for those in need. And certainly, mythology is quite fascinating. Everything has its place. Perhaps, there is a weather web or a mythology web where you can chat with others who are interested. All that I really wanted to know was about roses that still bloom in rain for future reference. Anyone else out there who might offer some useful info? CJ...See Moreneedmoremulch
6 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
6 years agoneedmoremulch
6 years agoneedmoremulch
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoneedmoremulch
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agojacqueline9CA
6 years agoneedmoremulch
6 years ago
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