I think they might still be recovering from the sunburn. I sunburned a bunch of plants last year, and after I picked off the white crispy leaves, the remaining leaves got that same dark color with the same slight transparency. This is just the opinion of an inexperienced gardener, but most of the time it's impossible to tell what's actually wrong with a plant-- unless you can see bugs crawling on the leaves, or something like that, you're pretty much guessing. Then you start adding phosphorous, messing with pH, spraying with insecticide, or overwatering, and stress the plant worse. It seems like most of the time the plant recovers on its own-- so my approach would be to keep checking on them and looking for changes, but not to do anything drastic yet. As for the watering, there is some flexibility here, I think. Last year I watered my garden twice all season, and I still got tomatoes every day. With overwatering, the issue is that the roots need oxygen. When you water, the dirt squishes together and fills in the little air holes, and the roots can suffocate. This is probably less of an issue in the ground than in a pot, because the roots are more spread out, and go deeper, so they probably have some oxygen even after it rains or you water. It's also probably less of an issue in soil with large particles (wood chips, rocks) because the large particles prevent the soil from compacting as much. (Think about a cup of slivered almonds, how there's little air in between the pieces, and a cup of walnuts-- the large, irregular pieces don't fit together, so air gets stuck in between.) Taking a look at your soil might help you determine how careful you need to be. If your soil tends to pack together, you need to be careful. If it looks loose even after you water, it may not be as crucial. As a general guideline, I would recommend waiting until the soil feels DRY an inch or two down before you water. (Especially this early in the season-- when it's really hot, you may want to water more often, because it may seem like the water starts drying up in the hot sun immediately after you water). Remember that tomato roots will go deep, and find wet dirt deep under the soil, so even when the top inches feel dry, the tomatoes may be well hydrated. Happy gardening!! :-)

Miesenbacher, I can fertilize twice a week even if the label on a fertilizer bottle states once in 2 weeks? The nutrients ratio is 2-3-1. There are umpteen discussions (linked above) here about how to feed container plants. Weekly or even more often if you use diluted 1/2 strength solutions and have to water frequently. So the answer to you question is most definitely yes. And what it says on the box isn't relevant since most are written for in-gound plants. You cannot treat plants in containers and plants in ground the same way. Container gardening is a whole other world and has nothing in common with gardening in ground. One reason why the Container gardening forum was created here. Miesenbacher uses a drip irrigation system for plants, which as I mentioned above just for that benefit, makes growing in such small containers much easier. Your leaves look like Gray Leaf Spot and/or Early Blight. Both fungus and treatment is the same. They could still be transplanted but likely not worth the trouble. But in your zone there is plenty of time to take cuttings from them to grow new plants with. Lots of discussions here about that too. See the link to all the container discussions I posted above. Dave

Looks like damage from a Tomato Fruitworm. Once in the tomato, the tomato is no good....you can't "cure" the damage. Prevention is the only step, now, from spreading to other fruit. If you see a tomato with a hole in it (some up to the size of a pea), pick it and get rid of it. I am not talking about "bites" such as tomato hornworms make, but holes that look like they were drilled into (or out) of the fruit. BT, Neem, or Spinosad can be applied to the plant and fruit, and I believe they are organic approved; but read the instructions. The little worms are the color of the stem and leaves, and prefer new green fruit. Good Luck!

Agree. Tomatoes in the home garden are grown from transplants, not by direct seeding. You can grow your own transplants indoors if you start at least 6-8 weeks prior to the plant out date. Or you can just buy the transplants for planting in your own garden. That is what most people in the US do. If you have a choice of planting in the ground then that is best IMO. Containers can work well IF you invest in a large enough container. How well the container will work depends on the variety of plant you get. With over 5000 different varieties of tomatoes there are plants that will range from 1 foot tall to 12 feet tall and from 1 foot wide to 6 feet wide. So the typical "flower pot" will not work. Dave