Planted Autumn Blaze yesterday.
Brandon Koziol
6 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (11)
User
6 years agoBrandon Koziol
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Autumn Blaze Maple In Trouble Questions :( **Pics**
Comments (8)Unless someone is thoroughly familiar with the soil and conditions in your yard, there is no way for them to know how much water is need or how frequently watering needs to be done. It's been said soooooo many times on here, but I'll say it again...use your finger to check soil moisture! You'll want to check both around and in the rootball, especially if the rootball contains soil of a different texture than the soil in your yard. And, you'll need to make sure to get down at least to your second nuckle (at least 2" to 3"). Thorough deep occasional waterings are much better than quick shallow frequent waterings. I don't understand the "2-4 mins of deep soaking" thing. Unless you are using a fire hydrant and have gravel for soil, 2 to 4 minutes is probably not going to give a deep soaking. You said that your tree had been planted for a week, but I noticed you still have it bound up with the bamboo shackles the nursery made it wear. You may want to consider freeing it. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub...See MoreIs my new Autumn Blaze maple in trouble? (Getting orange leaves)
Comments (6)I agree the tree looks fine. Normally any transplant problem will result in severe wilting, not some color change. Should you pull the tree out to add more dirt to make it higher? At this point I would say no--doing that will really stress the tree and maybe kill it. But what you should do is make sure the tree is not planted too deep. To do that, push some of the soil away from the base of the tree until you get down to where the roots flare out from the base of the tree. There should never be any soil above the point where the trunk begins to flare out to the roots. The main risk associated with this is the development of extra roots above the root flare which can eventually strangle the trunk of the tree, killing it. These are called "girdling roots." It is possible that some girdling roots have already formed in the pot you got the tree in. What you should do when you remove the soil from above the root flare of the trunk is to take some kind of tool and scrape away from the trunk in all directions to make sure there are not any roots near the surface above the main roots that go out from the root flare that could circle the trunk of this tree. These roots can already have developed if the tree was planted too deep in the pot by the nursery. Sometimes roots that will eventually strangle a tree are not real close to the trunk when the tree is planted, but as the tree grows in diameter, and as the potentially girdling roots grow, the strangling can occur much later. If you find that you have planted your tree a bit too deep, I think you should not pull out the tree to replant it, but just remove the extra soil from the base of the tree for a distance of about two feet. But you should not remove so much soil that the main roots that come out from the root flare are actually on the surface of the soil. If the tree as a result of this soil removal sits in a small depression, this should not be a problem for the tree. In fact, a small depression like this could make watering easier--the water will not run away from the tree as soon as you water it. --Spruce...See More'Autumn Blaze' Maple Budding On Trunk, Branches Dormant
Comments (5)Considering you have so many sprouts from below the the first branch set, you can select ANY of the sprouts from the trunk and make that into your new tree. I have had two instances with the same tree of a similar but different situation: I have a red/silver cross (Acer x freemanii) that I dug as a 6" seedling from my grandmother's garden. Planted it into the ground in late October of 2009 to over-winter it safely. A rabbit came during that winter and ate the stem to 1" from the ground. Determined as I was, I dug it up, potted it up and let it sprout last spring. I nubbed off every sprout but the one closest to the cut end, and let that sprout shoot up for the duration of summer 2010. It grew almost to 3' tall. In December 2010, after the little tree had turned the most amazing shades of hot red, we had a 4 day unprecedented snow fall (snow squalls, lake effect snow) the likes of which snapped the stem to 6" from the ground (in a new pot, in the ground again for the winter). As soon as the ground was thawed in March, I lifted the pot and kept it on the deck/patio. Again, the stem was enthusiastic about leafing out, and all the dormant buds were activated. I nubbed them away, only keeping the highest one on the stem. It has grown nearly 2' in the past 6 weeks. The wound has healed over completely and the stem is growing like a weed. Moral of the story: I'm determined to grow this silly weed of a hybrid. Moral 2 of the story: Even when you lose the top of a tree for an uncontrollable reason (weather, animals, etc) you can still succeed. Pick a vigorous stem and cut away all others. This stem will become the new trunk and will grow a considerable amount this summer. Remove the entire dead top to about half an inch from the shoot you will keep. The removal of all others will force all the root energy into one stem. It will hopefully prepare for winter and drop its leaves in October. Your one stem will branch profusely in the spring next year. It will look a little funny (well, a lot funny) but you won't have thrown away a perfectly good plant....See Moreneed help! planting 10 autumn blaze maples
Comments (5)Those are beautiful! I planted a twig of a Autumn Blaze Maple in my front yard two summers ago . It was 7' from Wal Mart, had one lateral branch about 1/2 inch and was bent at a 45 degree angle . Branched out quite a bit last summer. Looking forward to this summer. It is nearly straight!...See MoreBrandon Koziol
6 years agoBrandon Koziol
6 years agoUser
6 years agoUser
6 years agoBrandon Koziol
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMike Larkin
6 years ago
Related Stories
WINTER GARDENINGFire and Ice: 8 Plants That Blaze Once Frost Hits
Not everything in the garden sleeps in the cold — these plants rise and shine in fall and winter, bringing bright color to beat the blahs
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Meadow Blazing Star (Liatris Ligulistylis)
Make fast friends with the monarch butterflies and get a color show too with this adaptable U.S. Midwest native
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESInvite Mining Bees to Your Garden by Planting Their Favorite Plants
Look for mining bees (Andrena) pollinating woodland wildflowers in U.S. gardens this spring
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Liatris Aspera
Tall blazing star’s unique flower spikes bring butterflies and bees to eastern U.S. gardens in early autumn
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHelp Fuel the Monarch Migration With These 6 Prairie Plants
Try these nectar-rich beauties and help autumn monarchs
Full StoryLIFEThe Promise and Beauty of a Late Autumn Garden
Read a landscape designer’s reflections on plants, wildlife, fatherhood and learning to let go at the end of the season
Full StoryTREESGreat Design Plant: Sourwood Brings Fiery Fall Color
For a sweet spot of scarlet and orange in autumn, look to sourwood's foliage — but this tree offers interest the rest of the year too
Full StoryTREESGreat Design Plant: Acer Rubrum Brings Shade and Beauty
Red maple — a fast-growing, low-maintenance Eastern native — has spectacular fall foliage and early-spring flowers that feed pollinators
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plants: Rhus Trilobata
Plant skunkbush sumac for its brilliant fall color, and tiny late-winter flowers that provide food for pollinators
Full StoryFALL GARDENING8 Gorgeous Planting Combinations for Fall Gardens
Brilliant foliage, rich texture and late-blooming flowers — these gardens have it all
Full StorySponsored
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)