These the branches I had cut completely off from the top.

Hi, Gabby. The tree shows severe chlorosis, which is usually associated with improper soil pH and/or nutritional deficiencies or toxicities - sometimes chronic over-watering. The trunk and branches are extremely thin and weak. This means the better part of the tree's life has been spent producing barely enough food (plants produce their own food via photosynthesis) to ensure it remains viable. The tendency for foliage to be concentrated immediately proximal (toward the roots) from apices (growing tips of branches) is symptomatic of severe root congestion. The tree needs human intervention if it's to survive much longer. Al

Just got my fiddle two months ago and I've been reading up on this a lot. You can notch your fiddle to encourage branch growth lower down the trunk and you can also pinch the top part off (the green part not the woody part) and that apparently encourages it to branch in two at the top. This guys shows how to notch and pinch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bI2u2FOu1eo and I found this guy helpful for all around fiddle leaf care https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eBVv9y2E1U

I don't want to overwhelm you to the point where you decide "this is too much info", and give up; but, the rocks are large enough that they probably were acting as ballast instead of a drainage layer. If a medium supports a 4" column of excess (perched) water, it supports the same 4" of excess no matter what the pot size or shape happens to be. The shaded part below represents perched water: I don't want to overwhelm you to the point where you decide "this is too much info", and give up; but, the rocks are large enough that they probably were acting as ballast instead of a drainage layer. If a medium supports a 4" column of excess (perched) water, it supports the same 4" of excess no matter what the pot size or shape happens to be. The shaded part below represents excess/perched water, and that portion of the medium is 100% saturated. A few rocks in the pot bottom displaces soil that would otherwise be saturated, so it reduces the amount of water the container can hold. The perched water column is still the same ht, but because of the bricks/stones, there is less soil (and therefore, water) within that height. IF the layer at the bottom is such that disallows a continuous soil column from the upper layer of the soil to the pot bottom, the water will perch above the drainage layer. The water must follow a path through the soil to the bottom of the pot, then out the drain. The image on the right works as ballast because there is a continuous soil column from top of soil to pot bottom. Water perches in the middle image because there is no continuous column of soil from top of soil to pot bottom because it's disrupted by the "drainage layer". I'll leave you 2 links to look at when you have time. In the meanwhile, keep using a tell to avoid over-watering. It won't matter if you take a couple of weeks or a month to plan your course. Once you understand how important aeration is to root health and thus to the health of the entire organism, and how to effectively control that air:water relationship in the root zone, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how large was the step forward you took. A basic overview of good growing habits. Using ballast to combat excess water retention. Al