How countertops and splash should be caulked

6 years ago

Many fabricators are downright sloppy about how they caulk splash to walls, splash to countertops, and countertops to walls and cabinets.

Caulked joints should be taped 1st, then caulked for the best results.

Use blue masking tape and tape each side of the joint. The tape should be less than a 1/16" from the joint. This requires being really fussy with the taping.

Take 100% silicone caulk (important because caulks with an oil base will stain the stone) and put a very small bead in the joint.

Take a shim or something else with a square corner and run it along the joint. This pushes the caulk into the joint and removes most of the excess caulk. If you laid a fat bead you'll have a big glob of caulk on whatever you use.

Remove the tape being careful not to let the caulk on the tape touch anything. If you used cheap masking tape it tears when you go to remove it and makes a mess.

Properly done the caulk on splash to countertop is very nearly invisible and joints between stone and walls or cabinets have caulk in the joint space and none on the adjoining surfaces

Hacks lay a bead and strike it with a wet finger. Takes about 30 seconds but it leaves caulk smeared on the stone and adjoining surfaces. The process described in the above takes a lot longer but provides a vastly superior finished product.

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Granite City Services
Original Author

6 years ago

javiwa; never had a problem with the silicone pulling up with the tape. The silicone caulk takes a couple of hours to set so you have plenty of time. We normally do all the taping at once and then caulk. Taping takes far longer.

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Comments (11)

leela4
6 years ago
oldryder-thanks for that description. We need to redo the joint between our backsplash and soapstone counters and I have been afraid of doing it. This really helps.
User
6 years ago
Wonderful! I bookmarked this. Thanks for the info.
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Thanks AZstone et al! Now I'm mad that the installers did a half-a**ed job but at least I know that it is yet another thing to throw back at the fabricator. It may be worth adding a section to the big stone FAQ thread about what to expect from templating, fabrication and installation. Heare's what I have figured out from all that has gone wrong with ours: Templating: Crew arrives and either uses balsa wood or digital imaging to map out the countertop template. Sink must be in place for this. Make sure to note which walls will not have backsplash as those will need to be scribed to match the wall exactly. Also need to decide on sink reveal at this point. Fabrication: Slabs selected are sent to fabricator who cuts them based on the templating done. Advisable to visit the fabricator to determine where seam is planned and ensure best parts of stone are used. Installation: Same crew should be doing the installation. They bring in each piece and put them in place. Sink should be caulked by the installers. They should also caulk where the countertop meets the wall even if a backsplash is going in there to ensure water cannot travel behind the counters. Installers clean the stone and seal it. Does that sound about right? Thrilled to report that we got barely half of that right with our install! E
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They make a little tool that helps in removing caulk.It has a little hook on the end to help pull it out. Any paint store should have it. I'll guess that your builder used the wrong kind of caulk. It needs to be specifically made for use in the bathroom in wet areas AND it needs to sit for 24 to 48 hours before you get it wet. Heating it can help. Use heat gun or a blow dryer. For indoors I prefer the blow dryer. When you go to redo it. Cut the tip of your caulk at a angle and make it smallish this gives you better control when the caulk comes out. Remember if you click on the gun handle it should stop the flow of the caulk. Use a wet finger to gently push on the caulk and in a single continuous stroke move your finger across the caulk. Any holes just dab a bit of caulk on your finger and press it in and then run your finger across the caulk line again. It takes some practice. Trick is not to be afraid of making a mistake with it. Worse comes to worse you wipe it all off with a wet disposable rag and do it again. Some folks I know claim using a piece of plastic cut from a detergent bottle to spread a smooth caulk line is the way to go. I've never done it because I think my finger works just as well but it's something for you to try.
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User
6 years ago
Oldryder, thanks for sharing your knowledge! I recently had some tile work done in a bath and the guy used grout between the two planes. I was a little upset as everything I read is that the two planes should be caulked not grouted. He used a "power grout" and said it was flexible. I guess when it starts failing in a year or two, I will be digging it out.
javiwa
6 years ago
Helpful as ever, oldryder -- thanks! In our 25+ years in the house, I've successfully re-caulked quite a number of linear feet using the wet-finger-no-blue-tape method (learned from watching the original builders do touch-up). However, I've never needed to use 100% silicone. I've got a backsplash job coming up that I'm 99% certain will be DIY. My concern is the silicone bead 'pulling up' as the tape's removed. Is that not a concern with silicone, or does it just not show up? Also, how many feet can be siliconed before you suggest pulling the tape up before the silicone starts to set?
cpartist
6 years ago
So you're pulling the tape while it's still damp?
PRO
Granite City Services
Original Author
6 years ago
"So you're pulling the tape while it's still damp?" Correct.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Taping for caulk is a waste of time.

Wipe the deck and splash with acetone. Push a nice bead in place. Spritz the bead with Windex. Spit on your finger and smooth the bead. Wipe up the over-sprayed Windex without touching the fresh bead.

I'll have the kitchen caulked by the time you've got your first line of tape laid and mine will look and function better, I promise.

Guys even tape sinks and edges for a sink reset. No tape; let the caulk squeeze out, Windex, wipe the excess on a paper towel as you work your way around. Maybe a little acetone cleanup if you had a big gob.

No acetone between wall paint and backsplash. Paintable caulk, Windex, paper towel, done. Smooth walls only; textured, get out your tape.
PRO
Granite City Services
Original Author
6 years ago
"Taping for caulk is a waste of time."

Well, Joe I guess your approach is good enough for your customers.
barnaclebob
6 years ago
When I did my back splash it was only necessary to tape walls where the tile met our textured walls. Because of the texture it was hard to get a clean line and the caulk was hard to wipe out of the texture. Taping was definitely not needed at tile to counter joints.
kirkhall
6 years ago
Tell me more about the windex?
My contractor used WD40.

I'm wondering if it is all just whatever is the magic spray of the local contractor.

How countertops and splash should be caulked

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