Energy Efficiency not valued by lenders
sherwoodva
6 years ago
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8 mpg
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Energy efficiency upgrades � what is worth it?
Comments (58)Sorry for that UT A&M article, its a tough read but in the conclusion, does refer to energy loads. This one Iam linking to now is more appropriate, informative and easy to read. Author John Straube needs no introduction in the building science community. Its a good article for anyone building a home that explores air infiltration impacts on homes other than energy use. On infiltration's impacts to energy use related to HVAC, he agrees with wickipedia too: 1/3. Verifying Airtightness with blower doors saves energy, prevents rot and helps ensure we have CONTROL over mechanical ventilation. Manual J is an amazing tool. Its incredible how accurate it can be in the hands of a skilled user. I dont think Manual J or other energy software results are being used appropriately when extremely detailed outputs from limited samples involving many variables with built in fudge factors are being used to talk the community into building below energy code minimums. Here is a link that might be useful: Building Science.com link; Air Leaks--How they rot homes and waste money This post was edited by Brian_Knight on Tue, Feb 5, 13 at 22:19...See MoreStruggling with insulation/roofing options and energy efficiency.
Comments (13)To elaborate on thermal bridging since it was brought up again... there are several ways to calculate it, but to keep it as simple as possible, here is how it affects your total wall's insulation. First thing, if you put in r20 rated insulation product, you are certainly not getting an r20 wall for cavity walls. Other products such as ICF and SIPs (some SIPs even have thermal bridges) are nearly thermal bridge free and have what is called continuous insulation. My home is an ICF house from the footings to the roof, and there are no thermal bridges anywhere until the roof line. This gives me an r28 continuous insulation. However with wood frame structures, you have a framing reduction to take into account. Most new homes, studs, heads and plates take up anywhere from 18-25% of the wall area. (lets keep the numbers whole and rounded for easy math) Say you select blown fiberglass in a 2x6 wall, gives you roughly r20. You have 1000sqft of wall surface. That r20 is only for the stud bays, and every 16" roughly you only have an r1 due to the stud (framing factor) So you have 800 sqft of wall at r20 and 200 sqft of wall at r1. . Your "r20" wall is performing at an r16 on average with the studs acting like heat sinks. Add just 1" of XPS foam to the exterior (r5). Your r20 turns into r25, and your r1 turns into r6. Now 200 sqft of your wall is an r6 vs an r1 and reduces the heat sink effect.The materials to add that 1" XPS would be roughly 500-600 for that 1000 sqft wall. The upgrade from blown fiberglass to open cell foam is typically more than that. For adding exterior foam, details are pretty simply up to about 1.5" thick. After that, the details change and become more costly. Luckily for you, in zone 4. 1.5 is about as thick as you need to go. 1" would be a good start, and your details really do not change. I have detailed 1" foam and windows 1 of 2 ways. Either install the sheathing and foam and then the window. Or with 1" foam, most window flanges are 1 1/8"+ wide, so you can install the window and then install the foam. This gives them about 1/8"+ lap for a caulk joint for trim to hide the foam. The trim stands proud of the window with this detail obviously. 1.5" adds another step. I like to detail a frame out around the windows and butt the foam into it. So frame the wall as normal, install sheathing, then rip a 2x4 in half to give them 1.5x1.75 furring to frame out around the window RO. Install the foam, butt into the furring around the window, and then set the window, nailing into the furring. Everything planes out, and quite simple. Obviously this can also be done with 1" foam too, its just not necessary. There are lots of details floating around out there. Check out green building advisor as well. You can also checkout my blog for more details and nerdy building information. Again, a very untechincal explaination, but you get the idea hopefully. Here is a link that might be useful: home building blog...See MoreWhen energy efficient options on a build cost so much more.
Comments (25)Our PV system cost us $8k out of pocket to install, provided $904 worth of electricity in the last year, and I just cashed a check on our first year of SREC sales of $1600. I don't expect the SREC numbers to stay anywhere near that high, but thats an ROI that blows away any other investment I have made. It should continue to crank out that power for the next 20-30 years. You may or may not agree with the public policy aspect of the subsidies provided, but as a homeowner you can't beat it with a stick. Last summer we ran up a $2200 bill for water, keeping a relatively small lawn alive (not something I would have done had I known!). If I had any intention of using that level of water a $10k investment to recycle would probably make a lot of sense. Not to me though; the lawn is on its own! We insulated and sealed the heck out of our place. Keeping the old house at 45 degrees for the winter before we began remodeling cost $1600 in oil. After doubling the size of the house and turning the thermostat up to 68 our gas bill was under $800 for the winter, with a bunch of sealing yet to complete. The payback will be much longer, but we also get the benefit of a very comfortable space, without the drafts int he old house. The beauty of insulation is that it should continue to provide that benefit for the next century plus, with no additional investment over that period. (Plenty of 2-300+ year old houses in the neighborhood, chances are good the house will survive). I expect my payback (taking opportunity cost into account) to be long, real returns of a few percent a year, with my heirs perhaps getting a better price for a quiet, well insulated house. I don't regret paying it forward in this way-- I appreciate the way our ancestors built with quality, and have a lot of satisfaction from creating a property that will be enjoyed for generations to come....See Morewhich is the more energy efficient glass option?
Comments (3)Depends a good bit on how much money you want to spend on the door. First thing is to throw out those R value figures that the salesfolks gave you - in real life R value for windows doesn't mean much when dealing with overall performance. What you want to look at is the U value. The most energy eficient IGU (Insulating Glass Unit) that you are going to find is a triple pane with two LowE coatings and a krypton gas infill...this can be a VERY expensive option, and would be of questionable value if all you are replacing is a single door...and the actual performacne of the door that the glass would be put into would be critical as well. A dual pane IGU with LowE and argon infill will work really nicely, but again it is very important to know the quality of the door that the glass is wearing. Go to NFRC.org and you will see a good many listings of doors and windows and the energy ratings for each. This rating will give you a very good starting point for your search. Energy Star suggests a minimum U value of .33 (if memory serves) for the Northeast. Good luck and keep us posted if you have more questions!...See Moresherwoodva
6 years agofreeoscar
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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