Ashley (just sent you an email), We only live a couple hours apart and we see the same trees at big box and nurseries. You're probably seeing "ultra" on the Pacific Groves trees, right? Some are in bags (bareroot) at various places and some in the fiberpot containers (Lowes). If so, you can drop the term "ultra" and just consider it dwarf. Dwarf and semi-dwarf are what you're aware of: "regular trees on lower vigor rootstocks". These are prolific at nurseries and big box stores alike. Genetic dwarf, aka Miniatures or "true dwarf" are more rare, they are "dwarf trees on whatever (typically regular sized) rootstock". I think you already understand stocks especially how dwarf stocks ideally encourage fruit at younger age (early bearing) and retain a heavier fruit set (precocious). Each stock is different in various properties like size reduction, early bearing, preciousness, disease resistance, soil tolerance, and so forth. The rootstock is *mostly* what makes dwarf and semi-dwarf so small -- the lower vigor. The scion of certain varieties can be somewhat dwarfing and so can their tolerance of summer pruning. It ALL depends on variety, rootstock, and growing conditions. Thus why I've spent countless hours researching the various stocks and varieties before I go buying and planting gobs of them in my yard. Take the Babcock peach, very common. It can be grafted onto Lovell as full sized, on Citation is considered semi-dwarf, on Pumiselect called dwarf (PG calls it Ultra) but Babcock will never be a miniature (genetic dwarf). Just as Necta-Zee (another newer genetic dwarf) will never be a semi-dwarf or full sized tree. The mini's are very small, though their size differs based on variety, but many are 3 feet tall (unpruned) after 2 years old in the ground, whereas the PG ultra-dwarf could be like 6 feet by then. LE Cooke (near Visalia) also produces miniature trees, but I'm not sure the volume since I've only found a couple local nurseries that have ever had any -- and those nurseries don't plan to stock them anymore. The folks at LE Cooke have not responded to my inquiries. Nevertheless, they have an awesome website with cool photos of their genetic dwarfs. Here is a link that might be useful: Take a look at LE Cooke's Site

I don't think there is such a thing as dwarfing plum. I don't know about nectarine. For the plum I would figure about 12' for the tree, 6' from the trunk plus 1' to be safe, plus a little walking room. Although unless you're in a serious lake effect area I'm not sure either of those would be very reliable bearers.

Tracy, I think you'll find plenty of information and opinions in the threads shown in the link below. It's the results from searching for 'dwarf spacing' in this forum (which should cover dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties). As you'll see, a big factor in spacing will be pruning. The cedars may present a problem from CAR (cedar apple rust). Since I'm not familiar with the prevalence of this disease in your area (and can't even tell where you live because you didn't include that info with your zone info or on your member page) , you might want to contact your local ag extension service for more locally-relevant information on that. If you want to supply your location, you might be able to get more information about CAR here, from someone close to your area. You may also want to do a search from pruning techniques. You'll find numerous threads on the topic (maybe to the point of overload). Once you've done a little studying on that, come back and ask questions to clear up any concerns you still have. I wish we had one single, really thorough thread about pruning, but unfortunately the information is pretty scattered. Finally, have you researched varieties that will do well in your area? That may be a "can of worms". If not, your local extension agent might be able to give you some initial ideas on that too, but you'll definitely want to supplement his/her recommendations with your own research. Here is a link that might be useful: Search for 'dwarf spacing'

Michelle: If you live in Green Bay, you will most likely have to battle the Japanese beetles! They have been horrendous there the past few years and really love Honeycrisp apple foliage from what I have seen on past visits. Not that they don't feed on other apples but the Honeycrisp I viewed seemed more chewed up on the new growth than other apple varieties nearby. I am always amazed how different apple varieties show different levels of insect/disease resistance. Connell Red has a very waxy skin so the apple maggots seem to leave it alone. Jonathan on the other hand seems to be a magnet for apple maggot. McIntosh and many of its offspring (McIntosh crosses like Cortland, Macoun ect) are very prone to apple scab. Northwest Greening seems to be the easiest to grow as hardly ever seems touched by scab or insects. I have noticed at work where we sell apple trees that Spartan and Honeycrisp will get horrible looking foliage (not sprayed) as the season progresses, yet Golden Delicious in the same row have beautiful clean leaves. I just wish I could find a buyer for the Golden Delicious! (sad, as one of my favorites). Wherever you order your trees from just be sure to find out the rootstock! So many retail mail order companies and even garden centers do not tell you what the rootstock is. If you want something dwarf, be sure to ask what it is grafted on. That way you can plan better on how big they should hopefully get so you know how much space to provide for them. I live in SE WI but we have some relatives in Green Bay.