Are there any liquid fertilizers which are not concentrate like Bio-Link but I can use straight out of the containers. The problem was I got several containers growing mold, and I had to throw them away. It takes a long time to use one container up, because the sediment was what was the majority in the container. Even though I use it every 2 weeks, it still takes a long time to use it up. Then, the fertilizer gets mold. Now i put Bio-Link in the refrigerator too, after finding out other containers having mold in them. However, it takes up so much space in the refrigerator that i have to deprive grocery storage for this reason.

I can only tell you what I do, so don't take it as being a definative answer. I have had a rust problem amd bit the bullet (or maybe its I took a bullet in $$$) based on the recommendations of a commercial operation in southheast North Carolina (since I spent a few hours with them a couple of years ago). I've since been told that the same fungicides work for leaf streak. However, Mancozeb is not so terribly expensive and is a contact killer for the rust spores, so it should kill-on-contact for leaf streak fungus too. This was not among the original recommendations, however. Those were to alternate between two different strobulines (the ones that are made out of gold or something equally expensive), Compass and Strike. I was later told by a very knowledgeable lady in Canada that you should not atlernate between two of these chemicals because resistance can be acquired, and once it is acquired, it will block all strobulins. So this year's plan is to rotate three - Mancozeb, Strike, and Compass. For me (and a University of Gerogia study agreed!!) one of the two strobulins really does not control rust very well while the other is much better, so I might eliminate the poorer one. I just can't remember which one it is at the minute. Note that there are everal different types of strobulins, but the one in Heritage was the most effective in the UGA study. I've attached the link to their PowerPoint presentation. Go through it until you find their conclusions and recommendations. Their recommendation is to use one of the sort-of systemic ones that works and alternate that with Mancozeb. That should take care of the leaf streak and any runs that gets blow in by the wind. For rust, you have to continue this all season if you don't it to show up once the weather breaks - - for us that is mid-to-late September I am assuming that since this works for rust, it will work for leaf streak funguds too. Larry Here is a link that might be useful: Pathway to UGA Rust Study

I ordered recently several fixtures from The Bright Spot. They were great, very easy to order from and have lots of nice things at reasonable prices, in fact couldn't beat their prices on what I ordered, either locally or other online sites! They also personally will email you right away if you send a question and some items have additional discounts, plus free shipping. Highly recommend them. The site is http://www.thebrightspot.com and I will try to put it in as a link below. Here is a link that might be useful: the bright spot

Monica, I wrote another tips message for you yesterday. but it hasn't appeared and I really can't remember what all I wrote. But I will try again. I don't have a sink in my greenhouse anymore just because I do not have room. I used to even have a small fish pond in there, but I just have too many plants and have removed that also as much as I enjoyed it. I do set up one of those black plastic rectangular mixing pans you see in HD and Lowes and use that to mix soil or use as a sink to soak used pots when I need a sink. I have a water spigot in the greenhouse with a hose and hot water. The fine misting setting on the hose sprayer comes in handy to provide humidity as well as to water the plants. I use a water splitter at the spI got so I can hookup multiple hoses that attach to humidifiers, fertilizer portioners, etc. I don't have any problem with moss, mold, algae, or weeds growing on my floor but I have a lot of air circulation with fans in each corner and an exhast fan in the peak. I have a weed barrier under the 8-10 inches of bluestone flooring. Keeping the air moving is essential to prevent disease and fungus. I do wash down the walls, roof and floor about twice a year to prevent disease, usually when I take most everything out in the spring and again before I bring the plants in again in the fall. My greenhouse came with built in benching, but I removed it after a few years as I can fit more trees in without it. The trees get too tall on the benches so now most sit on various height plant stands to keep them off the cooler floor like those in your picture or I make shelving using wire closet racks propped up on the plant stands or cement blocks so I can keep my configuration flexible as the size and variety of plants changes. Ask when you order your greenhouse about putting 6 inch support bracing bars up in the peak aong each panel as that will make the roof much stronger and you will be able to support lots of hanging plants without risking collapse of your roof, especially if there is snow load. I hang many of my higher light loving orchids up there. Hot air rises so it is warmer up there than down near the floor where I keep lower light and cooler growing plants there under the citrus trees. Your roof looks steep which is good as any snow will slide off right away. You also should order a dropped door kit so you can wheel your plants in the door without having to lift them over a foundation block or wall. I have a Freeze Alarm in my greenhouse which runs off a phone line. I think it cost about $200-$300 but it is very good as you can call in to monitor the temperature in your greenhouse when you are traveling or at work and also know the voltage of the backup battery if there is a long electricity outage. You can provide up to 3 phone numbers the system will call to notify you if there is a problem that the greenhouse is not maintaining its temperature or it is getting too hot in there. If you are away you can call one of your friends to go check on it for you. I think there are cellular systems available now too. If you are running pipes or electric line underground out to the greenhouse, that is the time to run the phone line out to the greenhouse in the conduit even if you don't plan to have the phone line out there. You won't have to dig again later if you decide you would like a phone line out there. There is also equipment you can add to your computer which will monitor humidity, temp, light levels, etc through a phone line. I guess that can be remotely done now too. There are also lower tech remote sensors that work wireless but are only good for about 100 ft, which generally works ok from your house if someone is always there to hear and monitor them. Those are only about $25 I think. I find that they are not always reliable when the temperatures get really cold though for some reason, and that is when you need it the most. It is always important to check the greenhouse every couple of hours on really cold nights to make sure everything is ok. I now use Aluminet shade cloth which really helps to keep the greenhouse cooler in the summer. I think it provides 60% shade. I originally had a black plastic knitted fabric which provided 70% shade but that seemed a little too dark to me and I think the Aluminet keeps it cooler even though it let's in more sunlight. To provide humidity in the greenhouse you may be able to provide enough by just wetting down the greenhouse floor in the morning. If that isn't enough, you can use that misting hosing that comes with mister heads spaced about a foot apart. If you put it on a timer you only need to mist for a few seconds every hour or so. Keep it low so it doesn't wet your plants leaves. You could also hook it up to a hgyrometer set to the humidity level you want to maintain to automat it more precisely. This is a relatively cheap way of maintaining a constant level of humidity. For about $350 you could get a centrifugal mister that provides a finer mist and hook that up to a hygrometer which costs about $100 and you will have a very fine humid atmosphere which I use for my orchids. I do not think the citrus trees would require that much humidity so just wetting your pea gravel floor might be all you need. If you put in electricity, put in a few outlets as you will want to put in a heater, or 2, some lights (even just to see in there if there is a problem), maybe a centrifugal humidifier, a couple of fans. I had to get more put in, and it is good to have them spaced at either end and maybe the middle of the greenhouse. I use UV bubblewrap on the inside sides and roof of my greenhouse. It saves a lot on heating costs. Many others throw a solar pool cover over the top, wrap it up like a gift package and tie it down with bungee cords, plastic deer fencing, wood strips etc. Again, it really conserves on heating costs and lasts for several seasons. I am trying to remember things that I had to learn about. Just ask if you can think of anything. Others will probably chime in with their experiences. You don't need everything at once, but it is good to start thinking ahead. Have fun! Cory