I like your plan. I have two rows that include triple crown in each, 10 feet long and spaced 8 feet, also there is a row of blackcap and Boysens in between, row spacing in the patch is actually 4 feet. With the two 10-foot rows, you could get over 100 pounds of berries in good years. Triple crown rows can be kept to 2 feet wide, but only by selecting laterals that grow along the row axis--no problem, there will be plenty of laterals to choose from. Plan for about an 8-foot height for the cage unless you tip your triple crowns at a low height (4 feet) for laterals that start out lower, then you could get away with 6-foot height. This will all take about 3 to 4 years to get hefty canes with multiple laterals per cane and full production. Cage by year 2 or 3. Don't put a triple crown in a corner of the patch, you will end up pruning off laterals for 270 degrees. Place them about 3 feet in from the row ends and overlap/bundle laterals from adjacent plants when training.

Hello, As part of my home addition, we had new concrete steps installed (exterior) leading out of the side door. Unfortunately, during the winter, one of the subs poured salt on the new concrete, causing it to flake. The sub is going to cover the cost to fix it. The concrete guy who did the work originally is planning to just do a patch/coat over the steps, rather than re-doing the entire stoop. He says he will use a special product for this use, and that it will hold just as well as if he had redone the whole stoop. I tend to think this particular guy is trustworthy. However, another person in the hardscape biz today warned me to make sure I get this warrantied as it is more prone to issues down the road. Does anyone experience with this? Any insights or suggestions? Thanks so much!

UPDATE: I've just met with my GC and the lead floor guy (owner). The lead floor guy admits the patches were not what he directed, but his guys thought they were being helpful by patching. Both GC and floor guy agree the patches are visible. They said there are 3 possible courses: 1.) Try to touch up the patches to get a better match of the sheen. Risk is that it compounds the existing problem that they don't fully blend in with the rest. The floor guy also noted that each time they sand a piece, the grain on the wood is affected/sanded down, so that is not ideal. 2.) Let the patches go for now. The floor guy said in his experience, the finish actually gets a bit shinier over time -- and it's possible the patches would shine up a bit to better blend with the rest of the floors. My GC offered that if I go with this option, we could hold out $$$ and if in 6 months or so, I still see the patches, they would come back and fix (either patch and/or re-coat the whole area). Does anyone have thoughts on this idea that the floors will gain in shine over time? Obvious downside to this is that it's a bigger hassle to move everything out in 6 months, if that becomes necessary. Also a bummer (for me) to not start out with a fresh floor as I would have expected from this major addition. 3.) Go ahead and re-coat the affected rooms now. Plus is this gets done and over with, fresh start and no need to move things later. Downside to this, in addition to more time for the floor guys, is always the chance that new issues are introduced in the re-coat. I know it shouldn't be the case but I guess it's always possible. Thoughts welcome!

This is a tear down. A. Unlikely to find insulation because there is living space above the room. B. Because there appears to be a big bulge in the yellow circled area. Why? You may want to add some furring strips to the joists for clearance of a drain line if that is the reason for the bulge & mysterious circular indent in the bulge. C. Because you can visually inspect the plumbing above & correct anything that looks sketchy...i.e. an explanation for why you have areas of bubbled paint. Possibly some mold issues that need to be remedied. D. So you can run wiring for the planned light box and drop wires so you can have wall switches instead of pull strings.