@michelerossi Could I therefore already carry out a repotting with pruning of the roots? The answer isn't an easy yes or no. Obviously, you can do whatever you want when you want, but that isn't always the best approach. If I had to make the decision, I would weigh a number of factors, the plant's current level of vitality, light levels, current temperatures, and whether of not I felt it was an emergency situation (whether the plant is likely or unlikely to survive (w/o repotting) until the most appropriate time to repot. You might also have other factors like your schedule or commitments to consider. If the plant is not in danger of succumbing to root rot or the congestion, I'd definitely wait until the optimum time relative to your geography and weather. Is there no need for me to wait for June as you generally indicated? It's not a matter of hard, fast rules re the timing. Instead of "can I" or "should I" repot earlier than June, the question should be what's best for the plant. In our previous discussions I outlined why repotting close to the summer solstice is best. The plant will respond most enthusiastically and recover faster when days are longest/brightest and when the plant's level of reserve energy is at or near peak. Even if the plant is doing poorly now and you feel its level of vitality won't increase between now and mid-June, I'd still wait. I think the only thing that would make me repot now (here in MI) would be if I determined the plant to have a fungal root infection. Can I proceed now even if the plant has some signs of distress as you can see from the bare lower branches (the fourth photo) or should I wait for it to recover in spring? I think I pretty much answered this question in what I wrote above. *********************************************************************************** @kitasei Should I be root pruning my yuzu trees like this?? They are in large pots. When I suggest what you should or shouldn't do, it's always from the perspective of 'what is best for the plant'. Root congestion is a far more insidious robber of growth, vitality, and the plant's ability to defend itself, than 99% of growers realize. Potting up to a larger pot is not an effective strategy for managing roots because there will always be congestion at the center of the root mass. A full repot which includes bare rooting, root pruning, and a change of grow medium completely relieves root congestion and allows the plant to return to its normal rate of growth, level of vitality, and ability to defend itself (against disease pathogens and insect herbivory). A tree that is regularly repotted will normally grow 5-10x faster and exhibit a higher level of vitality, eye appeal, and it will be more productive. If you're objective is to provide your tree with the best opportunity to maximize its genetic potential, repotting (full repots) are essential to that end. Root congestion is limiting and will always hold a plant back. The best time to repot citrus is in the early spring - just before you notice the plant is getting serious about its spring push brought on by warmer temps and brighter/ longer days. Make sure you understand how to go about the repotting process before you dive in head first. Most loss of viability subsequent to repotting is due to overlooking something that seems minor but is important. One important factor is, the roots need to be continually wet during the process. Al

There have been a lot of topics here about how to move/transplant trees. My views are if you have the time/patience, it is better to be extra careful and do as careful/thorough a job as possible. Some here have thought my methods are overkill. You might want to read the topic recently about moving the older maple--I forget the exact title. Lots of advice was given, but in the end, because of soil conditions and a lack of the expected help, the methods used turned out to be somewhat different from what was recommended by myself and others, but the move was a success anyway. As for the size of the root ball--that depends a lot on what you can manage. You did not give the diameter (caliper) of the tree, but if it is a husky older tree, it could require a root ball at least 3 feet in diameter and about 18 inches deep. That could be rather heavy--too heavy to carry, but not too heavy to slide along on the ground on some kind of tarp. If the tree is younger/thinner, I would think a smaller root ball would be OK. And because maples are relatively tolerant of transplanting, if your soil is very sandy/loose, you could probably move it bareroot. If that is what happens, just get it into the ground immediately and don't let the roots dry out at all. Have the hole where you will put it ready in advance. And make sure this pre-dug hole is really, really large enough. You donÂt want the tree laying there in the sun while you are preparing/enlarging the hole. When moving a larger tree I like to dig out the root ball by trenching all around it so the tree, at one stage, it standing alone on its own pillar of soil, which is the root ball still attached at the bottom. Then I have access to get under the root ball to carefully cut off the deeper roots and then lift the tree gently out of the hole. In this case some kind of board or something else can be used as a lever if it is too heavy and then it can be swung to the side and rolled on to the tarp for dragging to the new site. If you donÂt do this all around trenching, you may not be able to cut the underneath roots properly and you end up prying the tree out of the hole, damaging the root ball. Because you are moving it just a short distance, I see no need to secure the root ball with any kind of wire basket, as I usually recommend for longer moves of larger trees where the root ball can be shaken. Finally, if you feel that you did not get as much root as you think you should have, or if the stress on the tree seems great, you can do some judicious pruning to reduce the foliage without harming the overall form of the tree. I posted my ideas about this recently--I am not sure in which topic right now. If you want my ideas about how to do that and canÂt find my pervious post, let me know and I will review them again. --Spruce

I would consider that normal, yes :-) Young JM's, and most especially those that are newly planted, will often go through some color changes. And even some early leaf drop. But keep it well hydrated (not soaked) and it should replace whatever is lost. I recently purchased an 'Enkan' and much of the growth is greening out. And all new growth is coming in green rather than red. But it is in less sun than it was at the nursery :-) Your new tree may be in more sun than it is used to, hence some early coloring.

Metro Maples: "Japanese maples are understory trees – they are happiest growing with some protection from a canopy of branches from larger trees overhead. Sun in the winter and spring is fine, but once temperatures get into the mid-nineties, most varieties will need at least dappled shade from midday until evening. Sun requirements and tolerances vary, depending on the cultivar, but generally speaking the red-leaved varieties will be more sensitive than the green-leaved varieties. (emphasis mine) The most sun-tolerant cultivars are ‘Seiryu’ and ‘Sango Kaku,’ but the species Acer palmatum beats all the named cultivars for sun and heat tolerance." Davidsan's Maples: "The ideal siting for all JMs is morning sun and afternoon shade or else all day filtered sun. A general rule is that to have the brightest colors, the tree will need at least some direct sunshine on the leaves. Virtually all JMs will sunburn a bit mid-summer if it is really hot, even in part shade." Mendocino Maples: "Keep in mind when you place your tree into the landscape that morning sun and afternoon shade will suit most maples best. Wind and hot sun can wipe a small tree out in no time, regardless of the cultivar. Leaves will show signs of stress with burning on the tips. Sometimes the roots will become sun baked and the stress will show up in the leaves as if there has been too much sun or wind. Maples are thin-barked and can be sun scalded during the first year or two after transplanting. This injury can set the trees growth back considerably. Most maple species are naturally under story plants, but as gardeners we have forced them into the open landscape." We also have no idea what cultivar the maple in question is. There are a couple dozen popular forms of red dissectums so an assumption that it is Crimson Queen is specious at best.