wildflower, I am sorry that I have not gotten to respond to your post before now, but I have been trying to figure out how to post a picture or least a link to a picture in my post. Anyway, what you have posted a picture of is: the classic signs of broad and/or cyclamen mite damage. You notice how even the very small leaves at the tip are a brownish color and the plant is no longer growing at that tip? That is what the broad/cyclamen mites will do to a brug that they have infested. I am going to attempt to post a picture of one of my brugs that is suffering from the broad/cyclamen mite damage. The tips of my brug look almost identical to yours. Everyone has given you excellent advise from treating with heat, the polymers and the horticultural oils. I have been using the ultra fine oils to try to keep these critters under control. But it is a war in which they always come back. I spray with the oils at a heavier than recommended rate, it knocks them back for awhile, but they always come back. Now, if you want to treat a cutting with oil to totally wipe them out you can. You just have to dip or spray the cutting with the oil at full strength. Since a cutting normally does not have any leaves on it you don't have to worry about the oil damaging the leaves. And with the oil undiluted it will kill the mites and all their stages of development. But this is not an option when trying to treat a full grown plant. There are products out there to treat these mites like Forbid, Avid, etc., but they are very expensive and the mites will and are developing a resistance to these products. That is why I am so excited about the polymer products that Jim has discovered will work on mites. I will be getting a gallon of Anti-Stress 2000 to spray on my brugs and all other plants that will be coming in the house for the winter. These mites are not the same as spider mites that make a webbing. They are a different family of mites, they are in the tarsonemidae or tarsonemid family. There are also some predatory mites that will help control the tarsonemid mites and spider mites too. Well, I am going to try to include or link to my picture. Here is a link that might be useful:

Hello - the first tree in the pot has an almost unreversable problem. The cambium layer which moves food and nutrients to the upper part of the tree (right under the outer bark) has been severed all the way around. You might have a chance of saving the tree by using a bridge graft. It's difficult to explain, buy google will have it in a search. It looks as though maybe this was done intentionally. I have never seen this on any maples. It could also be an old problem with the graft union too.

Thanks guys...I'm going to a garden center today so I'll bring a leaf along just to make sure. Do you think it could have been all the rain we got in March? It hasn't been overly wet here since and I haven't watered the trumpet vine at all otherwise. It didn't leaf out until maybe 5 weeks ago, and I started noticing the spots about 2 weeks ago. The hydrangeas below are healthy, no spots. (unlike last year, when we got doused in June and July, they looked horrible.)

flgargoyle - why the name change? Just curious. Good to see your post and glad to hear you are still at it! Congrats on passing your inspections. I am sure it is a bit more intense when you are the contractor/home owner. Can't wait to see more pics. We have a shed dormer in the front that is the small open area upstairs. I like it but sometimes wish we had 2 for bedrooms instead. :) So dh drove by the property this morning - 3 inches of rain in the basement. Rained all day long but a slight reprieve for trick-or-treat. It's back raining again now though. I cannot wait until we've got it boxed in - weather tight!