A couple of questions, what rose is this and is it own root or grafted? Also, how deep is that mulch around the rose? Is there much more rose underneath it? I brightened up the photo so it's easier to see and marked the three places to cut, I think, that third ones really hard to see. Start at the red line and snip it off at about a 45 degree angle about 1/4 inch above the bud eye. Look at the center of the cane. If it looks moist and a greenish white or creamy in the center it's OK. But I have to say that one, although nice and fat, looks iffy because the cane has died back awfully close to it. If it's tan or brown and rather dry looking go to the next line, yellow, and cut again. That one looks like it's good but if not then go to the green line. At that point you aren't going to have a lot of rose left if there's nothing below the mulch. Don't be fooled by that white tip. That's just dried and bleached from the sun. The wood itself is dead. Depending on whether or not it's own root or grafted the rose may not survive that deep a cut if you have to go to the green line. Or if it survives it may never be a strong healthy plant again. Own root roses have a better chance of survival and revival because they will send up new canes from the roots. Grafted roses not so much. We call them one cane wonders and they rarely come back to be strong bushy plants after dwindling this far. And if it is grafted and it appears to send up new canes from below ground those will most likely be the root stock sprouting and not your rose. I hope this helps and I really hope your rose survives!

If you go to the thread "'new' gardener needs help with rhod/azalea", there are photos on how to deadhead a rhododendron. That is what removing spent flowers is called. On some varieties it makes a difference, on some it doesn't matter at all. On most varieties, it will only make a small difference if any. Most gardeners would like to deadhead but few actually do. If you are getting petal blight, then deadheading is very important. All spent flowers should be destroyed. The best way is to toss them in the trash. Petal blight is a disease that hits some rhododendrons and azaleas that bloom later in the spring. It causes the flower to turn mushy before it naturally wilts. If you look closely it forms unsightly brown spots on the flowers. Attached is an example the early stages of petal blight before the flowers turn mushy. Here is a link that might be useful: How to care for rhododendrons and azaleas.

What kind of citrus tree is this? If it is a Meyer lemon, this is its normal growth habit - bush-like. Depends on the cultivar, and what type of shape you're after. It doesn't appear to be rootstock growth, but scion growth to me. But, up to you. If you're after a more tree-like canopy, I would prune the branch off at the trunk. If not, I would leave it. Also, you can upload your photos to a photo sharing site, then copy and paste the HTML code right into the body of your message, thus embedding your photos right into your message. A little easier for the busy folks on this list to see your photos, than having to copy and paste the URL to each photo into a new browser window. Patty S.

If it was still outside and you lived in a citrus climate I'd have maybe gone to the production rate, but since you're taking it inside, I'd just go with maintenence. But no, citrus don't really "need" a break, they're a tropical evergreen so they don't need to go dormant or even slow down in their preferred weather areas. They do sometimes slow down in winter outdoor in citrus growing areas that are less than tropical, like here in the SF bay area, Ca, but I would bet in South Florida they probably don't slow down much in winter at all. Here it's the cooler temps and less light that causes them to not grow as much in winter. Where you are it would be a lower light level inside, I would assume. So go ahead and fertilize in winter too. imo.