>>It's interesting that there's crown molding on the columns and a lot of detail on the wall, but no crown in the kitchen. Is there crown molding elsewhere in the house?Oh my, have you hit on a sore subject. Crown molding was only included in the formal areas and master bedroom. They also crowned no sloped ceilings. Adding crown to other areas was $250 per "room". $250 now, not so much. 20yrs ago when we're building a house and running out out money, it was. Crowning just that hallway and the adjoining family room cost $500 because it counted as 2 "rooms" even though it was only as much crown as a bedroom; the exterior wall is sloped so the family room is really only 1/2 crowned (one wall not crowned and open on one side). I didn't crown the kitchen because the only wall that would have received crown is that single wall (because again, the outside wall is sloped), and it would have cost me $250. Don't think so. I did the crown in my office myself (come on -- a box) along with the sloped ceilings in the formal living room. If *I* can do it, why in the heck couldn't a carpenter? New cabinets will go up to the ceiling in the kitchen. They put tile crown where I cared in the master bath when it was remodeled. What I should have done was made them crown the hallway to the bedrooms just to punish them. It has so many compound angles it would make any carpenter cry.

This is just a guess: I think if you meet the specs and requirements of the remote blower, you should be okay. The important thing is that the size of your duct is at least the size specified for the blower. You might want to confirm that with the blower's manufacturer, if they have a customer service 800#. If your duct size is too small (usually expressed in inches diameter), you will not get the full benefit from the blower, in other words, less than the 1000 cfm. BTW, are you sure you really need all that exhaust capacity? It's really a lot, the sort of thing suitable for a lot of heavy sauteing and grilling, cooking for a big crowd on a regular basis. With all that exhaust capacity, you need to plan also for fresh air intake to compensate for the negative air pressure you will be creating. Plan on having to open a window nearby or, if you really want to get fancy, build in an air intake device inside the venting system. I don't know exactly how they do this -- it's the kind of thing usually installed in restaurants. It's easy to go overboard when planning a renovation. You have to sit back and say, what do I really need, and what will please me?

"We're just not going to be able to do a lot of the things which are currently popular in the decorator world." Not a loss, since the decorator world is more about fads and trends in fashion than it is about quality. Spending your money on quality construction will be more satisfying for far longer. Keep in mind that anything which is not structural can be changed down the road, which means that you can get comparatively low-cost fixtures, counters and appliances now and replace them in a few years. Whenever possible, choose what appeals to you without looking at the brand or price tag and then if downcosting is required, you can often find very similar for fewer dollars. For an example, I have two friends building very similar new-old houses. One has a nearly bottonless purse and the other is OB/DIY because she has almost no purse. The first admits to spending over $50K just on lighting fixtures, the second has spent less than $5K. No doubt a lighting store specialist could tell the difference, but not too many others will notice.

Mine is from builder. It is one of Thermolec air heaters ( http://www.thermolec.com/en/productView.aspx?type=product&id=77) plus a separate current triggered flapper. The heater tries to heat the air to 15 C (PWM), activated by the air flow. It is a passive one and connects to the air return of the furnace via a 10 inch duct. It is not as sophisticated and highly performed as Kas's.