What's Wrong with my Phlox Paniculata 'Ditomdre' (Pics Included)?
erw247
6 years ago
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erw247
6 years agoRelated Discussions
What is wrong with my cherry tree?
Comments (4)Your Cherry Tree's may have VERTICILLIUM WILT Symptoms Leaves at the bottom of current season growth turn chrome yellow or reddish orange in mid-June to mid-July (Fig. 17). Leaf discoloration progresses up the shoot during midsummer. Leaf drop follows (Fig. 18). By fall, only upper leaves remain. Disease may affect only a branch or one side of a tree (Figs. 17, 18). Young trees usually are more severely affected. A brownish red discoloration occurs in woody vascular tissue of some affected branches. Cause The disease is caused by the fungus Verticillium dahliae, and spread through soil, surface and ground water, nursery stock, and infested potato feed lot manure. The fungus survives in the soil for many years, and may increase in soils infested with certain weed species. Control Avoid planting in soil where susceptible crops (potato, tomato, pepper, raspberry, strawberry, peach, apricot) have been grown. Control weeds in orchards (e.g., phlox, geranium, shepherds purse, lambs quarters, nightshade). Avoid excessive irrigation, high nitrogen fertilization, severe pruning, or other practices that promote succulent growth. Prune out dead branches; plant only healthy trees. I have found that the new farm I have purchased the last three months that the fruit trees are diseased, the farm includes Apple, Peach, Cherry trees, also the farm produce's Potatoes, Tomatoes, Sweet Corn. I have found that this PDF http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb1323e/eb1323e.pdf has helped me. I hope this gives you some helpful information too! Here is a link that might be useful: Field Guide to Sweet Cherry Diseases in Washington...See MoreWhat is causing this on my phlox?
Comments (5)I love Phlox and usually they grow well, but it seems they can be susceptible to mildew and fungus. Two years ago, I had an unidentified wilt in most of my Phlox paniculata, P. carolina, and P. maculata in the Spring, including David, Tracey's Treasure, Harlequin, and Miss Lingard. It was rampaging through the phlox and even killed off a couple plants before I finally "sprung to action" and sprayed with a copper fungicide. LOL I used an organic spray called "Soap shield" from Gardens Alive. That seemed to halt the rampage. Yours would probably benefit from a spray. The good news is that the Phloxes look great this year, although it took a couple years for some to recover back to full size....See MorePhlox paniculata
Comments (83)Besides spring, Annette, I plant for summer and fall herbaceous perennials and usually avoid woody ones (e.g. shrubs). Some of what I plant doesn't like being disturbed, e.g. balloon flowers and peonies. Most of it, however, does much better if it's periodically reduced (and moved) and replanted with new organic soil. Consequently I feel free to plant closely. You could plant a perennial bed with the plants three foot away from each other and it would look great in three years time. Personally, I want the effect quickly, as most people do. With my close planting, it's necessary to avoid seeders and especially runners, which usually means avoiding the species (and paying more for well behaved cultivars). I reduce and move around plants probably a lot, as required with close spacing. With some perennials (e.g garden phlox), it doesn't seem to matter when they are divided as long as watering is covered. For instance, this year my one phlox 'Twister' seemed to be not getting enough sun by the time it started to flower, so I moved it to a better location (watched watering) and it's fine. Needless-to-say, (1) this works well for our growing conditions and (2) I'm basically retired and have a lot to time available for gardening. Re variegated perennials: I never liked variegated perennials either, but I'm now a convert. Many perennials only bloom for two or three weeks and so variegated ones really add some variation to a mixed perennial bed. The other thing that really appeals to me is the fact that variegated perennials may be less vigourous (= tamer) than the non-variegated forms ( e.g. with yellow loosestrife or obedient plant cultivars)....See MoreIs it too early for phlox?
Comments (27)(Zone: CDN 5b) Specifically Phlox paniculata: we probably have five or six dozen of these plants (my favourite plant) and only two have appeared so far; below a 'Twister', divided last fall. The portions of the plant, temporarily potted up, show no sign of life yet. As you'd expect, the two phlox plants, earliest to appear, are in the very sunniest locations in the garden. There obviously exists far fewer cultivars for other member of the Paniculata-Maculata group. I've planted a few cultivars, each of Carolina, smooth (wild: picture above) and meadow phlox; plus one of Arend's-hybrids. Other that Arend's 'Baby Face', none of these other phlox have done robustly here. As to the woodland phlox cultivars, the longest any has survived is two years....See Moreerw247
6 years agoerw247
6 years agoerw247
6 years agobarbarag_happy
6 years ago
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