If you can dig in your soil, plant it. Water it as needed - probably not much after the initial, soil-settling dose until it starts to grow, but keep an eye on, and a finger testing, the soil in the root ball - water if it is dry. Mulch as widely as you can - at least 3', but more is better - no deeper than 4", and put no mulch in the inch or so next to the trunk. If your soil is still frozen, then keep it somewhere cool, so it doesn't break dormancy early, but where it won't freeze hard. Keep the root ball damp, but not soggy. Plant it as soon as you can dig your soil - it will do better in the ground than staying in the pot. Keep it watered as needed - when the soil is dry 2" or so down - over the summer, and into next year. I would do no pruning until it has been in the ground for the summer, and probably not 'til next spring - the more leaves it has, the more roots it can grow over the summer. You want to prune it to a vase shape - get a book on home orchards and see what it has to say about pruning fruit trees, and especially peach trees. You don't prune fruit trees as you prune ornamentals - you are looking for the best fruit growth, not the most attractive tree, so it is a bit different. It will take a few years for it to grow up enough to flower and fruit - at least 2, maybe 5. I don't know if that cultivar will need a pollinator or not - you may have to get another peach tree to plant near it.

FJ, welcome to the world of clematis fanatics. Just for the record, I have always treated my Rosemoor as a type III clematis and haven't had an issue doing so. It is still floriferous and blooms intermittently the rest of the summer after the initial bloom. With you being in zone 9 in California, I imagine you could treat all of your type IIs as type IIIs and not have issues either. In fact, treat them all as type IIIs the first year in the garden, and your clematis will be better off for it. What to do with your clematis will really depend on how well developed the clematis' root system are. I haven't ordered and received anything from Koi Garden yet (have one ordered for delivery this spring), but from what I have seen from pictures posted here, they tend to be well established and if anything a bit root bound. If they are, I would tease and pull the roots apart and then pot them up in one or two gallons sized pots to grow until this fall before planting. The reason I say this is that if your zone 9 is anything like my zone 7a, then spring is fleeting and summer comes on like gangbusters. If that is the case, then they won't have time to get really established prior to the arrival of hot weather. In pots, you will be able to make sure they are kept well watered, allow the roots to get re-established after your teasing them apart, you can keep them pruned back to establish a plant that is shorter and compact, and allow more stems to grow from the crown. Then, this fall when the weather cools, you will have real monster sized plants that you can plant out and they will have all fall and into the winter to get really established. Just my opinions based on my experiences in my garden and not really knowing what zone 9 summers are like! Perhaps others will have other opinions. Good luck and welcome to the world of clematis.

gaeinpan - Roots sound like they're quite healthy and a good size. Probably better than my Gibbaeum when I got it. If your current pot is too shallow, then you can get a 2.5" unglazed terra cotta pot from most garden centers for <$1. They're just a little bit deeper but not so much bigger that it would cause problems. I would keep the little plastic pot for future use. =) If your balcony is anything like my roof - quite hot in the summer and gets a lot of unobstructed light, I can understand that the pot would dry out quickly. The sun is not so strong right now in September, so burning it shouldn't be a major problem unless the old location was very shady under that other plant (please use your own discretion, just in case). Hopefully you have a big glass door for the balcony too? That would be good for the winter. Yes, these mixes would be excellent for other succulent plants! You get to customize based on what you think each plant would like, which is very useful and satisfying. All mine are in very similar soil mixes as described above. I also buy my supplies at pretty much the same places as Rina. Sharpe's feed store has white granite grit (chicken grower size). A 25kg bag 'sounds' like it's a lot, but it's actually not very big. Just rock is well... heavy. =P For perlite, the best so far is homegrown hydroponics for me, they have middle sized bags and giant ones. If you want a smaller bag, all the hardware/garden stores such as Sheridan Nurseries carry the same Farfad stuff that needs sifting to remove the tiny bits (use a cheap kitchen sieve). For Turface, you can buy the rebranded 'soil conditioner' in smaller bags for about $5 from some garden centers such as Van Dongen's. It's not that easy to find though. Next time I'm definitely going to buy a 25kg bag in Brampton (or Milton). For sand, which is not really required and entirely up to your preference, I bought from a local greenhouse. It's called horticultural sand and comes in a small clear/dark bag-package for around $5. Most garden centers all have the same stuff. It is not play sand if anybody says they have that. Alternatively, I've heard of construction sand (sand for concrete mixes), but I never tried it myself and never looked either. No matter what, I would keep the % of sand very low in your mix - perhaps 5-10% maximum. Otherwise you start giving up all the nice properties you get from the grit and turface. If you have trouble, Rina or I may have photos kicking around what each looks like. Not sure what part of the city you live in? If it's the West side, I can maybe point you to some places I've checked out before. North only a few around Markham. East only around Pickering/Ajax. Right now, the sun is winding down a bit for fall so I would only repot plants that you think will grow throughout the winter months or will not survive/do very poorly in their current mixes. For sure your Gibbaeum could use a repot and probably that Cotyledon too. Normally, I'm repotting any plant I get right away anyway...

Hi Jessica! I, too, am new to succulents. I have bought from Home Depot as well as Lowe's and I live in an area with high temperatures and high humidity. If I were you, here's what I'd do: Get a bag of Miracle-Gro Cactus Palm and Citrus Potting Mix and a bag of Perlite. Both are available from Home Depot. Mix them half-and-half (50% potting mix and 50% perlite). Repot each succulent in its own well-draining pot using the mix. Terra cotta (clay) pots are best and least expensive. If you still have the plastic pots they came in, you can use those instead. Wait about 5 days before watering. When you do water, give them a good soaking until water flows from the drainage holes. During this time, keep them away from direct sun for a few days, just bright shade. In fact, I'd wait until the first watering. After that, slowly acclimate them to direct sun by giving them one hour a day for a few days, then two, then three, etc. Morning sun is the best, if possible. Watch for signs of sunburn on the leaves. It means you're moving too quickly, slow down the acclimation process. Water them when the soil is completely dry. Use a chopstick or your finger to test for dampness. If there's any at all, don't water. I'd separate them because community pots with varying kinds of succulents can be difficult to maintain, even for experienced growers. Until you feel comfortable that you understand each species and its needs, it's best to maintain them separately. It's just easier, IMHO. If separating them isn't possible, changing the potting mix will still be a big improvement. And the acclimating and watering plan should work as well. Your call. Good luck and keep us posted! EDIT: Just noticed that you already have C&S mix, so all you need is the Perlite.