Hi guys, thanks for the "not-blight" info, I will refrain from ripping it out and burning it. One note, it's possible that it had snails before I bought it, but I didn't notice spots when I bought it, then it sat in my house for a week, with me checking on it every day (no snails or bugs) and i started to notice those spots developing. They started out darker green, and then eventually became the sunken, dried, brown spots that you see in the photos. Does that help any?

Well, I looked it up and found that a 70% neem oil product is labeled for early blight and other tomato leaf fungal diseases. But the product carries a warning regarding honey bees. You may want to note that when selecting a fungicide. Neem Oil Product Label I get a small amount of Early Blight most years and a greater amount of Septoria. The spots in the pictures look more like Septoria to me than Early Blight. I may be wrong on both accounts. However, I've found leaf trimming the affected foliage, and continually maximizing air flow by distancing plants and management pruning gives my plants an opportunity to outgrow most Early Blight and Septoria infestations. Still, I have to eliminate entire plants occasionally to safeguard the others. This year is the first time in several years that I've had to spray Daconil to arrest a severe Septoria infestation at one end of my garden (the least sunny end of the bed). And in this instance I trimmed off all the the lower and visibly infested leaves and only sprayed the foliage just above that point trying not to hit any fruit or flowers. I'll keep the neem oil thing in mind, but don't want to kill honey bees since I also have cukes and blackberries simultaneously and in same garden with tomatoes.

grow_em_maters, "what would you recommend for killing the aphids?" To control aphids you can brush them off with your fingers, spray them off with a water hose, spray with insecticidal soap, spray with left over soapy dish washing water (not the kind from a dish washer), or use something stronger like sevin. I brush them off or use insecticidal/soapy dish washing water. "Are they related?" Possibly. The problem with the internet is that you can't see the plant and how it's been developing, etc. which makes problem diagnosis very difficult. Later I'm going to ask some questions that will help with diagnosis. I'm not going to be around for a few days, but someone may be able to help out. Oh, and don't forget your local extension service may be able to help. You didn't mention that the plants are wilted, stunted, have lesions on the stem, or other serious issues. Based on that and what I'm seeing I'm going to assume that it isn't a fatal disease like one of the stem diseases or late blight. But, that's based on an assumption and you know what that means. Therefore, the assumption is that it is a foliage disease, the result of splash back, or because of the aphids. So, based on all of those assumptions, don't pull the plants, spray with daconil (or similar products), try to cut down on splash back, and try to keep the lower leaves dry. Also, continue to monitor and observe the plants. The questions. How old are the plants? Have you seen any other problems like wilting or stunted growth? How long have you seen the problem? What are your watering habits? What other helpful information can you provide that I haven't asked? Good luck. Randy p.s. I'm also not seeing halos, concentric circles, and other things that are indicators of certain diseases which contributes to why a more specific assesment can't be made at this time.

Wolfridgeil - I too thought it odd that the damage started primarily at the leaf tip. My suspicions right now are either the Spotted Tentiform Leafminer or the Apple Leafminer, but I'm still not sure I have a positive ID. The damaged leaves visible in the second link you provided look very similar to the leaves on my trees, although the larvae were much, much smaller than the caterpillar pictured. In an effort to rid the trees of the problem, I took the time to pinch each "tent" that had formed, with the intent of killing whatever larvae resided within. Barring a second generation of the pest, this should rid my trees of the problem for this year. Interestingly, it primarily affected only two of the six apples trees. Bradybb - If you have fruit trees that are displaying similar symptoms, be sure that small "tents" aren't forming on the leaves. If they are, I encourage you to open one up to see what you find.