Is this the right kitchen table for us?? Newbie needs advice
deb maureen
6 years ago
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Newbie needs MAJOR kitchen advice!!
Comments (4)Okay, let's try posting this link with the message: http://kitchenplanner.ikea.com/CA/UI/Pages/VPUI.htm?LoadDesign=eac35664f7c148858c2e6f5d99bab853&UIContext=Kitchen&IsSharedDesign=1 My first post to Garden web...I hope I do this right!!!! Please tell me if our kitchen layout is crazy! Or anything else for that matter! Let me tell you our reasoning for what we came up with. Hopefully you will be able to see a little of it in the IKEA layout we did. 1.) the room is a crazy setup with part of the kitchen extending wider than the family room. Currently there is a door leading outside to a wrap around deck (driving me nuts because everyone walks right through the middle of the kitchen to get there) , but I am ditching it and putting in another set of garden doors in the side wall of the family room. That way, people do not have to travel through the middle of the kitchen to get outside. 2.) we HATE working in corners 3.) we want open sight lines at the end of each run with nothing large (deep) blocking our view :ie looking outside at one end (we have a beautifull back yard full of trees and a pool) , and at the end of the run with the cooktop in it, looking into the dining room which is across the hall from the end of that counter run. (Am I confusing you yet!) The hallway there is actually the one that is from the entrance to our house and as you first enter the house, divides the garage wall from the living room, and then as you continue to walk in, it divides the kitchen from the dining room (we have just totally opened up the entance to the DR so that it is as wide, a little wider actually, as the kitchen). It is more like one big space now. The complicating factor is that as you continue a few more steps straight ahead down this hall (you are actually in the kitchen/dining room now) it heads straight upstairs to our second floor. I tried to capture that in the IKEA setup with a big black square. All of this limits where we can go, and what we can do with the fixed parts of the kitchen. 4.) We want the cooktop centred behind the island, and visually from the family room 5.) we're planning 2 sinks...one at the end of the island (prep), and one near the windows. Our thinking with this is that we (me) want a lot of unobstructed island space for prep, and having fun cooking with the kids. The sink near the windows will be the cleanup sink, and out of view of the family room. I realize that this layout may not be what a designer would choose to do. I just want to make sure that it doesn't look completely awful. A couple other things to note: I have placed IKEA appliances in with this plan just to have an idea of what it might look like. I am actually going with the following (in Canada) : http://www.sears.ca/product/whirlpool-50-cu-ft-double-wall-oven/622-000153197-WOD93EC0AS double oven http://www.sears.ca/product/samsung-28-cu-ft-4-door-refrigerator-stainless-steel/646-000444646-RF4287HARS our friends have this fridge. It is beautiful and we LOVE it! The picture here does it no justice. http://www.sears.ca/product/kenmore-elite-30-induction-cooktop-stainless-steel/622-000774257-C970-40853 induction cooktop. We like that it won't stay hot when the pot is removed (curious dog and kids) We have got some good deals( we think? ) for these appliances if we take them: fridge $2229.00, oven $2489.00, cooktop $1399.00 (Remember..Canadian $) We already have a Bosch stainless steel dishwasher. We'll get a new microwave...haven't decided on a drawer model for the island (I'm conflicted here because I want that end cabinet space for a mixer lift, and I don't want to give up drawer space in the middle island cabinet ) or we may put it about the double wall oven like shown here: https://www.houzz.com/photos/art-and-design-show-house-2012-traditional-kitchen-atlanta-phvw-vp~1795602 I've accounted for opening space for appliances etc. The gap showing in the corner of the design between the wall ovens and the pantry that is at 90 degrees to it there will actually be a very narrow tall cabinet which we can stash our broom and a few other things in. The fridge has to go where it is as we want to sink it into the wall (garage) a bit so that it does not stick out so far into the room. The other wall is an outside wall so it is not possible to put it there and sink it in. I realize that the dishwasher is at a corner with very little room for opening clearance. The 2 cabinets it will open in front of will house things that we do not access often...at least not when we normally use the dishwasher. If it ends up being too tight, my hubby plans on making the cabinets there a little shallower so that the DW opens okay. We thought about putting the DW beside the wall ovens, but we are not sure how that would look. The 12 inch cabinet that is currently located beside the wall oven is for a pullout trash can...so that it is not under the sink. The island will also have another pullout trach, but that one will likely go under the sink. We are hoping to buy all cabinets on Wednesday. That's a lot....am I missing anything? Do you have any suggestions for us. Fire away.....please...really, nothing will offend me. As much as I am having fun with this process, it is also driving me crazy!!! I am SUCH A ROOKIE AT THIS! We will probably go with the IKEA fronts as well as the boxes. I don't love the lacquered look of Lindigo, and I wish the top drawers of the cabinets had more detail, but I think it is something we will compromise. We're planning to go with a butcher block counter top on the island and then some kind of stone on the rest. Floors will be cherry hardwood. Backsplash will probaly be small, rectangular marble tiles...lighter colour (poor description..sorry). Design link is at top. OMG PLEASE WORK!!! Please help!!!!!! : )...See MoreTrying again- newbie needs layout advice- please & Thanks!
Comments (5)Oh, yes, I wasn't following the description that well, and was looking at the labels on the pictures. The dairy sink being the separate one makes sense. I also totally missed the 24" dishwasher on the plan. So sorry about that! Ignore entirely what I said about it. That's why I ask questions. Besides learning more, I also get my mistakes fixed. :) And it helps my approach to know that your rabbi requires separate dishwashers. That pretty well points to the other requirements you have. :) One really important piece of advice: Have a backup plan for Pesach. Unless you're much further along than you sound like, you're in the zone of if everything goes right. Make a plan for what to do if things go wrong and you're not in your new kitchen in time. At least if the sinks and appliances are in on time you'll be able to cook ahead. :) Re the overhang (which doesn't show at all on my screen), 30cm should be adequate. It's a little tight, for long term comfort, but so is the width. For squeezing in a few kids for breakfast or baking it should be fine. OTOH, I have many fond memories of my mother bringing the mixer to the table so that we could make hamentashen, cookies and other fun things. If you're kneading by hand, you might like doing that on the table better than the counter unless you're tall. My optimal height for kneading or rolling is 33", which is halfway between the standards for table and counter. I figured out, however, since I have a carpet under the table and don't want to bake there, that I could use my counter by wearing tall clogs, rather than having a special, lower, baking counter. :) Can you explain more about how the range and window will interact? Do you ever kasher the oven for dairy baking? Would you ever consider getting a wall oven rather than the toaster oven? I know there are budget limitations, but sometimes you can build what works for you now then allows for an easy transition to a planned change in the future. The big problem with the toaster oven niche is the heat. Toaster ovens aren't usually well insulated and they throw a lot of heat around all sides. OTOH, if you have a niche big enough to transition into an oven later, it should work well for either. I think the whole niche should be lined with tile for it to be safe for the toaster oven. That's five sides. The whole plan makes much more sense to me now that I know that the L is the dairy zone. If you had enough produce for that to be your parve zone, I'd think you had a farm and could process it outside. :) Yes, the whole thing makes a lot more sense now. I can definitely see all the baking and dairy meals in that area. I just think you're going to need a bigger dairy oven as your kids get bigger. Teenagers are a lot like goats--they'll eat anything and everything and leave a wasteland behind them. Is the dairy cooktop induction? The boil time would be great for pasta, and it's really wonderful to cook on in general. You can melt chocolate or make toffee (matzah toffee!!! major crowd pleaser) without a double boiler on induction, for instance. The biggest issues I see for the perimeter flow are the path from the stove to the dining room, which I assume is outside the bottom opening, since the other is the laundry. (Do you have a kitchen porch? Or is that the laundry? Or does it open off the laundry?) I'm thinking the straight path is going to be handing things across the peninsula, which isn't a good idea, dripwise. I'm not understanding the prep flow, though. If the parve sink is on the right, then it's the parve counter that runs by the stove? And if you wash meat on the meat side, and then carry it through the parve zone, does that make sense? Or do I have it backwards still? Regarding pantry size, the amount of pantry storage you need is just a bit more than your cabinet will hold. Do you have a makolet (sp?) on your block? That relieves a lot of the storage pressure. 60 cm really isn't enough for a family of 8 for American style, shop once a week, storage. If you can send a kid out for a can of whatever six days a week, it's a lot easier. The best way to know if it'll do is to start with the must haves. If your baking supplies will be in the pantry, for instance, group them together as if they're on the right sized shelves and see how much room they take up. Do the same with all your staples. Since you won't have drawers (roll out tray shelves), consider collecting boxes that will fit that you can slide in and out...but remember, either one takes up some of the shelf width. One way to gain more room in the kitchen is to find some space elsewhere for the cookbooks. You can copy out your most used recipes and put them in a single binder. Keeps your books clean, too. :) That takes a lot less space than all the books. I'm not assuming you have room for them elsewhere, but if you can find it, you'll have more pantry space. I think you've done a good job of squeezing things in, covering your requirements and staying on budget. I keep thinking of ways to change things around, but they start to compromise that. Regarding the backsplash and corner by the range, tile before you put the range in, including behind the riser. Just let it be what it is. It'll be much more comfortable to cook with the range away from the wall, even if it's just by that little bit, the tray cabinet is good to have, and it gives you a place for a spoon rest and a trivet on the far side. As to colors, the Formica sounds like a good color. I was asking about the floor because that ubiquitous stone (agreed about the ignorable factor) is nice and light and should look fine with the color you're describing which is more toward a medium value. I think you could go with either the black or the blizzard white (very low speckle factor) Caesarstone and have it look good. The black will be snazzier, but show more streaks. OTOH, the white can yellow over time and exposure to sunlight. It sounds like it will be attractive, warm and pleasant. Too much "character" in a small, busy kitchen can be overwhelming. Your neutrals should have enough variation not to be boring, and enough boring to be calm amid the chaos....See MoreNeed advice right away- cabinet/table placement
Comments (64)mtnrdredux your house is absolutely absolutely amazing! It makes me want to sell my new-built one and go and buy yours! That window seat with the arched stained glass window is a work of art! And your fireplaces and floors!! I also love your style and ALL of your furniture. You aren't too far from us, so if you have a moving sale, please really let me know and I'll come and buy some of your furniture. That's so cool you got married at the house too and what a beautiful setting to do it. My fiance and I are planning on getting married at our new house as well. I'm sure your new home must be magical for you to leave such a lovely home! Thanks for the book ideas- there are a bunch of really cool ones! I definitely have more books than shelves. We've got a quasi-two story library with a library ladder and books to the ceiling :) We've been buying those readers digest books at estate sales, the leather bound condensed books. And old law books. I kept a few of my old law books from law school but they are nowhere near as nice as your husband's collection! beckysharp it is the sun blinding effect that I'm afraid of with the windows that is making me think I'll want to do at least shutters on some of the windows. macybaby, the swag of the chandelier is definitely a good idea. Then I could do the ceiling medallion I want to do as well. fori, I agree 48" seems a bit big for a table. That's why I'm hoping I'll be OK w/ space. That was the size I saw on the first three tables I looked at to get an idea of dimensions when I was talking to my cabinet maker, so I'm not sure why they were all so large!...See MoreFinishing project for newbie - advice needed!
Comments (2)Most strippers you can find will be methylene chloride. You should definitely use this outside. A semi-paste will give you some time, just don't over brush it on. Less common is NMP. MC will work better but is more "toxic" The biggest mistake is not to give the stripper enough time to work. Let it sit and do its job. I usually put a sheet of plastic over the stripper to keep it from evaporating away too fast. Unless someone finished this in their hobby workshop, it's likely not polyurethene. It's just not a production finish. More likely for a factory finish is lacquer. I like to use acetone as a rinse as it will also strip off the little residue of finish that might remain. If you want to get it out of the pores, use a Scotch-Brite scrub pad (maroon or light grade) with the acetone. Do not use steel wool for this as the iron in it will react with the tannins in oak and leave black stains. Tinted varnishes such as Polyshades are terrible products. Very difficult to get on evenly and poor adhesion to most under coats. CIAC. If you want to reduce the dark-light contrast on the grain, you want to use a dye-based stain, not a pigment based one. Problem is, the yellow cans you find at a home center will not tell you which is it. A real woodworking stores will have liquid or powdered dyes. Otherwise, you have to open the can to check for sludge on the bottom (the settled out pigment) I'd recommend getting Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" at your library or bookstore and reading relevant sections of stains and varnishes. It's a great book....See Moredeb maureen
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