Could be a little overwatered. That's an easy fix. Didn't like the drips my landscaper put on the trees. Will swap them out for gph drips, which I much prefer. I can put them on 1, 2, 3 or 4 gph nozzles. I'll check down in the ground a wee bit and see if they're too wet. And just my luck - it's going to rain - a lot - tomorrow. Will take them a bit to dry off, then :-( Thanks, so glad it doesn't look like a fungal thing. Had enough fungal infections this spring to last a lifetime. EVERYTHING had some sort of fungus in my yard, it seemed! Patty S.

Thanks Scott, your response is reassuring... I'll try the Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide Concentrate now so I can have some form of defense for the time being prior to the fall arriving. If this is a good approach. I'm guessing this is a mild solution of the copper as the website mentions about applying this stuff in 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed. Although when I looked at the label it says to apply as a dormant spray in late fall during a period of dry weather... Leaves me wondering if this can be used right now during the beginning of summer as a proactive measure. Maybe if I dilute the dosage some it wouldn't be so harsh right now? The plant won't be fruiting this year so I'm not concerned about damaging any fruits right now. The few flowers that it had seemed to dry up and die before they even bloomed.. :( This is the pdf file for the label on the copper fungacide... http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l811.pdf In late fall I could do the Bordeaux fungicide. I believe the Bordeaux be considered a dormant copper spray.. I'm new to all this and really appreciate all the help and suggestions. Thanks for the information blaze... I really think that I was over watering these plants when I first picked them up here from my nursery. I was watering them almost every day and I think twice I sprayed the entire leaves thinking this would help the plant, until I learned that this can invite diseases... :\ I'm hesitant now and wondering if I should wait on any type of mild copper treatments until fall. Maybe this might clear up and get better....? I still have all my fruit trees in pots. I'm planning on growing the nectarine and cherry tree in pots for now. I picked up two huge 24 in pots. These pots are giant. I want to transplant these into them pots real soon here using mels mix. I'm planning on putting these all on a drip irrigation system which I'm currently working on. I actually purchased a whole house filter in which I'll be using for the irrigation to help filter or minimize any chlorine, etc.. Initially I thought this may have been brought on by some sort of deficiency or over watering as I was watering allot on every session... I read that sometimes this can cause nutrients to be washed away from what little soil is in the existing buckets. Doing the finger test wasn't working well for me as the top inch of the soil would feel dry almost daily and I would water about that often not realizing a few more inches below the soil was still moist. I finally purchased a moisture meter which made me realize my trees were not as dry as I was thinking. As a newbie to the outdoor garden I have lots to learn. It's sad to have purchased some fruit trees just to have them go sick in just a few weeks time... Hope I can recover them and learn from this lesson... Question.. When you water a plant, does it matter how long you water the plant at that given moment? Is it possible to water too much if the plants are draining well? The buckets do have their holes on the bottoms and seem to be draining well. Does it make a difference if I watered them for 5 minutes with the hose or 30 minutes with the hose besides my pocket book? As long as I don't water them again until they need watering again? And do these type of stone trees, when using a moisture meter (if anybody in here does) should the readings always be on moist, wet or allowed to go dry prior to watering again?.. If you or anybody else may be familiar with those moister meter levels. Richard S.

Notice how that legacy in the photo is showing chlorosis. The leaf veins are darker than the interveinal leaf tissue, which is yellower than healthy plant tissue. Generally that means an iron deficiency (most likely caused by high pH), but Mg deficiency can do the same thing - albeit usually starting on older leaves whereas a Fe deficiency tends to be the whole plant, or newer leaves. The photos I have seen of Mg deficiencies in bbâÂÂs are quite variable. Then, the red color still could be either the cooler weather impacting P availability, or an additional symptom of Mg deficiency. The plant is already stressed/struggling even before the stress of transplanting. DonâÂÂt destroy any plants based on my commentary! I have limited practical experience with bbâÂÂs, and have never dealt with a virus issue myself. IâÂÂve simply done a lot of reading, and am trying to provide possible suggestions to investigate. One source that I refer to often is Spectrum Analyticsâ document on fertilizing blueberries. See Spectrum Analytic Inc. FERTILIZING BLUEBERRIES The photo on page 24 is the closest I have seen to your plantâÂÂs red, other than some virus photos (e.g. cornell) I would suggest reading there about P and Mg, along with all the other good info, if you havenâÂÂt already. You fertilized with a fertilized that included Mg . . . but what is your native soil like? Could it already have been Mg deficient? High in K or Ca that could make the Mg less available? (seems plausible if your region has natural mineral springs). Plus, it appears, based on the potted plant, there may have been preexisting issues - perhaps with Mg. BlueberryHillsFarm had the best suggestion right at the beginning. A leaf and soil analysis is in order. Otherwise, itâÂÂs just guesses and testing to see what various treatments might do. Even so, were it me, I might try a test on one or two plants by applying espom salts to provide additional Mg. 1/4 cup evenly distributed in a 10-inch diameter circle around the plant. (source for application recommendation). When I recently suspected a Mg deficiency in a couple plants, I added 1 Tbs per gallon of water and wetted the root zone. Results are yet to be determined. DonâÂÂt forget, the fresh sawdust will tie up nitrogen in itâÂÂs decomposition. You may need to add more nitrogen than normal to compensate for this.

Thanks for the advice so far. PharmaChad - I have watered about twice a week using a soaker hose. Last night I watered the raised bed enough that the ground around it was soggy. I pulled up the plant to look at the root ball an hour later and it seemed to me to be dry on the inside. Here's a photo. Brady - I first noticed the browning yesterday (Thr) and I'm out in the garden every day. We had temps about 98 degrees down here on Tuesday. I watered on Monday evening, but maybe it wasn't enough. I have a ph test kit on the way from Amazon.com and I'll check as soon as it gets here. I'm thinking that the water isn't penetrating the root ball enough. The raised bed soil in the bed is getting very wet, but the root ball isn't nearly as wet. That's probably a bad sign, right?