Mango grown from Seed
Karen S. (7b, NYC)
6 years ago
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Karen S. (7b, NYC)
6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Mango tree leave damage
Comments (2)I started my mango tree in March and it had at least 5 hours of direct sun per day at that time and when was rainy or cloudy I used to put it on my 150w hps 24 hours per day.Now, it has 7-8 hours of direct sunlight per day outside with temperatures between 25-32 degrees, but the dead leaves have not grow back and no new leaves have grow from the top....See Moregrowing mango from seed
Comments (13)"I disagree with the comment about mango from seed usually not tasting good" While you may disagree with the original comment "Most times not", I have to say that I have a mango tree in my yard that was grown from seed and it tastes like some type of petroleum based cleaning liquid. The funny thing is, the seed "MUST" have tasted good because the PO of the property wouldn't have planted the seed in the first place... that is unless they siphoned gas at night for a living and had no taste buds left? :-) Anyway... I'm going to pull it from the ground along with a HUGE (completely unproductive) avocado the PO planted TWO FEET from the Mango seed... sheesh. My only guess for that kind of act is that somehow they thought that the little trees in nurseries that had fruit meant that their trees would be dwarf specimens? TG for websites like this one. Gary...See MoreHelp With Growing Mangoes From Seed In South Florida
Comments (10)Hi Mia, What type is the mango you enjoyed so much ? Just curious,..my favorite is the Kents ! It just so happens that I tried exactly what you are considering. A little over 2 years ago I started noticing the occasional small green baby mango plants that would pop up at the base of a banana plant that I used my organic compost to fertilize, ( the compost was full of old mango seeds ). Then a big 25 gallon clay pot became available so I decided to try growing one of the green sprouts, carefully digging up the root which of course, was a big, oval, thin mango seed ! I gave it all the TLC I could, a mixture of regular soil, topsoil & organic compost, put pot in a full sun spot on side lawn with a few bricks underneath so moisture could drain easily, and added half a hand full of 6 - 6 - 6 fertilizer every two months. Was just curious what would develop. Day before yesterday I ripped it out of the pot as I just got tired of looking at a wimpy, 1/2 " diameter, 3 ft tall twig with a few green leaves that was drooping one way, then the other despite my attempts to support it upright ! Had been told that any fruits the plant might generate in future would most likely not be the same as the mother tree. However, I was willing to try anyway, just a casual attempt on my part, no tears shed last Wednesday when I pulled the twig out ! ( smile ) Just my brief experience, - I wish you better luck !...See MoreContainer mango tree - branching after top pruning
Comments (5)You have more than 4 branches growing proximal to the point of truncation. What you should do depends on your vision of what the plant should look like as it matures. One thing is certain, if you allow all of those branches to continue to grow, you'll have a huge swelling on the trunk as all of those branch collars expand. This will wreck the plant's eye appeal. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'll assume the reason you truncated the plant was to stimulate branching and start working on developing the canopy/foliage mass. If that's the plan, I would keep the small branch several nodes below the point of truncation and growing to the right in the image. I would then select only 2 branches from the top of the cluster of branches immediately proximal to the point of truncation and remove all other new branches. This will leave you with 3 second order branches to start developing. Envision the ht at which you want to maintain the tree. Allow the 3 second order branches to grow so they have reached half the distance from the point of truncation to the height you would like the tree to be, then pinch (truncate) those 3 branches. From each of those branches, allow maybe 3 branches to grow, and rub off all lateral branching in places that do not compliment the composition. You'll now have 9 branches to work on. Allow those branches to grow so they are about 75% of the way between the original point of truncation and ultimate ht of the tree, then pinch them and let 3 branches grow from each. This will give you 27 branches to work with. From that point on, you can focus on pruning fairly hard in the spring, pinching during the summer, and leaving the tree grow unrestrained in the winter. Try to never allow more than 2 branches to grow from a branch in close proximity to each other, as it creates an unnatural "heaviness" in the canopy. As a bonsai practitioner, I'm intimately familiar with how to prune effectively with a focus on developing natural looking trees with eye appeal. If your goal is fruit production, you might want to seek advice from someone with experience growing mango in containers for their fruit. Al...See Morejamilalshaw26
6 years agojamilalshaw26
6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years agoKaren S. (7b, NYC)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years agoemmett518
6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years agosummersunlight
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agotropicbreezent
6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years agoJames (zone5b)
6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years ago
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tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)