I just got a couple plants from a site (below) and I liked what I got, they do have neon pothos. Here is a link that might be useful: Pernell Gerver

Oedema. I wrote & saved this info: Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Increase light levels and temperature where appropriate. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage – especially in the afternoon/evening. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity, no matter when you do it. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. * Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al

The leaves will stop from being damaged any further but will remain the way they are till they die off. And the browning on the stems are dry leaf sheaths which are perfectly normal. If you want you could gently peel or rub them off.

Perlite is a volcanic rock baked at super-high temperatures to create popcorn like air pockets in it. Miracle Gro steeps theirs in fertilizer, yes, but it isn't in itself a fertilizer -- just a soil amendment to provide aeration. Since it is a rock, it discolors with exposure to the elements (water and air) and becomes a host for (healthy) microbials. Over time the perlite will turn beige and/or brown. If it turns green, you've got algae growing and are probably badly overwatering. I would second Karen's question about the pot's drainage hole and also ask about your watering habits. Are you sticking a chopstick/skewer in (all the way to the bottom) to test for dryness? Roots need air as much as they need water, which means giving the dirt a chance to get almost completely dry before drenching it again. Otherwise, you suffocate the roots and lose leaves.