I live in North Central Ohio. Generally it's considered zone 5. (Some of the newer maps say a little warmer). I've grown blueberries in containers for 3 years. None of those winters have been extreme. For winter, I pull the containers together so that I can create one large mound of leaves around & over the containers. I pile the leaf pile a couple of inches above the containers. So far, no problems. My earliest variety was damaged by frost this year, but I think that would have happened if they were in the ground. I also have a few fruit trees in containers that survive in the same leaf pile. Please remember 1) some varieties are hardier than others. The rule of thumb I read is that the plants should be rated two zones lower than your area to leave them outside in pots. 2) Our winters have been mild during this period. Maybe a more extreme winter would kill them. If I had the space, I'd still put them in the garage. But if not, go for it. For me, a novice at gardening, my blueberries have been fairly effortless. Birds, however, are a problem.

Dcrosby, You may be right at the edge of zone 5/6. Check the map here. If you are still zone 5, you just need to do some winter protection. It should be fine. Climate affects disease susceptibility. In dryer, more arid climate like AZ or CA, they don't have to deal with fungal disease like we do here in humid East Coast. When you read people's recommendations, you want to see where they live. Different climate gives different results to the same rose variety. Spraying for roses every week or every two weeks is not my kind of fun (anymore). I didn't even want to smell the blooms after I sprayed the bushes. Now I don't spray, most of my roses esp. Austins look naked by mid summer. Here is a link that might be useful: MA new plant hardiness zone map

I wrote this out yesterday before I read Yardvaark's response, so some of what I have written may repeat or contradict what he said. Though you may not want to hear this, I have a few concerns, some practical and one aesthetic. I live in an area that looks fairly similar to yours. I don't know how long you have worked on gardening here, so forgive me if I bring up things you have already considered. For the aesthetic, you want to remember that this is the front of your home, and while the flowers pictured will give you summer interest, you will want some evergreens or other plants with winter, spring and fall interest such as interesting branches, colored bark, etc. to help provide structure and form to the bed in the 7 or so months of the year that your flowers aren't blooming. An evergreen groundcover could also work. You can most likely have flowers but you will also want some year-round plants; otherwise you will have an empty bed for about 2/3 of the year, and while some of the time that is under snow, something like 4 months of the year in my garden are both cold and snowless. Plants that need to be dug up like most of the bulbs pictured (not the lilies in the last photo) need to be planted in a separate part of the bed from shrubs or plants like the lilies that are true perennials in zone 5 so you aren't creating root disturbance. Most of the plants you pictured really like all day sun and good soil, and I am not sure that even having taken down the marked trees and improved the soil you will find they grow well due to the conditions. Some of your trees may be species which don't share space well, so I would take good photos of buds and branching to get them IDed if you don't know what they are. That will allow you to judge how likely you are to get a fair amount of roots growing into the bed from nearby trees (whether the bed is raised or left at grade.) I think that while the trees currently may not shade much of the bed once the marked ones are down, the remaining trees will extend their branches to some extent to take advantage of the newly available sun. In a bed alongside a treed area like this, I might focus on plants that I know will do well with a mix of sun and shade and are relatively tolerant of dry conditions and are hardy enough to not need to be dug up annually. They also will look more natural against the tree line to my eye as the transition from a mass of flowers to native woodland might well look quite abrupt. Dogwood trees (Cornus kousa or Cornus florida), mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia), hardy rhododendrons, silverbell (Halesia), Epimediums (there's a world-class Epimedium nursery in MA) are some flowering plants that do well along wooded edges for me, but none of them will bloom all summer like those pictured above. I think I would put the flowers in your photos up closer to the house, pehaps enlarging the current bed and replacing part of the lawn (which likes similar growing conditions), including something similar to what I mentioned above for winter interest. I think having a bed at least 8' deep and with at least a foot between plants and the house for maintenance would look better. If you have deer, you might want to consider a high fence or a regular spray program to keep them from eating your flowers since many flowers are quite attractive to deer.

Sandy, we are surrounded by 75 foot pine, oak and maples. We had looked into solar since our house is perfectly oriented south but would have had to remove about 10-15 trees at $2500 a piece. Beyond our modest pocketbooks and worse it would leave no money for roses!! My shade gardens are mostly hydrangeas, especially an old lacecap that flowers in about 2 1/2 hours of early morning sun, Rhodis, astilbes, hostas, hostas, hostas, holly, a beautiful pink laurel bought this spring and other shade loving perennials. The sunniest areas are roses on top of roses(no three to four feet of space between) with fillers scattered throughout. My best roses for these areas are these DA's: Windermere, Queen of Sweden, Desdemona, Olivia, Heritage, Teasing Georgia, The Generous Gardener, Darcy Bussells, Boscabel and Gentle Hermione. Kordes include Summer Romance, Honeymoon, Cream and Lavender Veranda, Polar Express, Summer Memories and Zaide and a scattering of others including Julia Child, Knockouts and Bolero, which is far too tender here but I still love her. I have a Boscabel and Gentle Hermione in probably 4 hours of sun planted practically in sub soil and they're still putting out some buds even though they are extremely neglected so Austins tend to do well in not ideal conditions. It's definitely trial and error, seemingly more error than anything else but when you hit on the right rose that will flower in these conditions... heaven! Sharon