Hi Nina, "I buy packets that show large, full blooms and when they bloom they are about half the suggested size and one layer of petals instead of three or more." Some seed companies buy their seeds from growers who do not spend the extra money to hire people to rogue their fields, and the zinnia varieties "run out" under those conditions. Generally, the seeds in packets on seed racks are not the best. "I have bought several packets that show bluish purple and when they bloom they are always magenta or towards pink. I don't really believe there is a bluish zinnia." The color pictures on seed packets are not reliable and, even if they were pretty good to start with, the ink colors aren't lightfast, and some colors fade with exposure to sunlight. In general, seed racks are not a good place to store seeds. I have even seen seed packets that were water damaged, but still for sale in a home store. The best way to purchase seeds is by mail order or online sale from a reputable seed company. Higher prices do not always ensure higher quality, but lower prices usually mean lower seed quality. You stand a better chance of getting quality seed if you buy from a seed company that also sells to commercial growers. "I don't really believe there is a bluish zinnia." There are bluish zinnias, but they are not for sale commercially. As a person who grows zinnias as a hobby, I can assure you that there are lots of zinnias that you can't get commercially. I don't think there will be a true blue zinnia until blue genes (I always think of blue jeans when I say that) from other flowers that have true blues are added to zinnias by genetic engineering. That has already been done to get blue roses. But in the meantime, there are bluish lavender zinnias that actually look sky blue when they first open in the shade. But on exposure to sun, that color turns to a lavender. They are not available commercially. "Does anyone know if it could be a deficiency?" Zinnia buds and blooms can be seriously harmed by certain nutrient deficiencies. For the best results, use a soluble nutrient formula that contains a complete range of macronutrients and micronutrients. That includes the usual nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium as well as magnesium, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Plants, including zinnias, also need quite a lot of calcium, which unfortunately is almost always absent from soluble nutrient formulas. Hydroponics growers almost always supply calcium as calcium nitrate to their plants. Garden soil usually contains some calcium, but not always enough for zinnias (or tomatoes). If you have previously added lime or gypsum to your garden soil, it should contain enough calcium. If I see calcium deficiency symptoms in my zinnias (and I do from time to time), I include some calcium nitrate in their foliar spray. Foliar feeding is a good way to make sure your zinnias get the nutrients they need. If I see boron deficiency symptoms, I add a little extra boron in the form of boric acid in my foliar spray. You have to be careful with boron, because it doesn't take a lot of it to reach a toxicity level. I also supply a little cobalt and nickel to my indoor zinnias, but there is usually enough of those in garden soil. And it is beneficial to supply soluble silicon to zinnias, to increase the strength of their cell walls, which makes for stronger stems and leaves, which contributes to disease resistance. Rice growers frequently supply soluble silicon in their fertilizer, because it is important for rice stems to be strong to keep the seedheads out of the water. It may seem counter-intuitive, but sand is not a way to supply silicon. I use a solution of potassium silicate to supply soluble silicon to my zinnias. ZM

Paula, I didn't realize your citrus were in 14" pots..How large are the barrels? Still, I wouldn't repot at this time of year. Wait until spring, then if roots are sticking out of their current pots, and barrels aren't overly huge, you still may be able to repot in them..The problem is, most barrels I've seen are huge..once a plant is potted in one, it's going to be very difficult moving. And again, I don't think citrus will make it in your zone during winter months.. Then again, I'm unfamiliar w/your climate..if there are only 4-7 days of icy temps, you might be able to accompish planting trees in the ground..I talk to 2 women who own citrus nurseries in Fl. some nights drop below freezing..they cover trees on these cold nights, and trees survive..but it's questionable..they also have warmer temps during the day to compensate for the cold nights.. Citrus fertilizer..You can find it on Ebay, and some nurseries carry it. Some Home Depots sell it, too. Since winter's approaching, there's no need to fertilize now. I have 2 types of Citrus food..one bought here in IL, the other online..A slow-release granular feed. Sprinkle and water, lasts 3 months..But Epsom Salts are supposed to be good too, as is Azalea fertilizer. I used to use Azalea food on my citrus before getting hold of the real thing. And here in IL, it's a lot easier finding azalea food than citrus. Do you have Fish Emulsion lying around? I use it as a scale preventative before bringing citrus indoors..it's also a great last foliar feeding..1 capful per 16oz mister of water..spray citrus thoroughly. I must warn you, it does have a fishy smell, but if you spray a couple days before bringing inside, the odor should be gone, plus they now make an odorless type. FE can also be purchased on Ebay at great prices. If you're interested in purchasing more citrus, I know a guy who owns a cold-hardy citrus nursery..I can give you his addy if you'd like..Prices are great, too, and what you get are 2-3' trees..at least that's the size I got when I ordered from him. LMK..good luck, Toni

I'm sorry to say that those plants look far too far gone to be revivable. Lavender is extremely difficult to grow indoors - I don't why they bother to sell those little gift plants for indoors - they are pretty much doomed for failure. Combined with a typically grossly inappropriate planting media and the inadequate indoor conditions, they don't have much of a chance.

I would not use a "balanced" fertilizer and would use Jack's Professional 25-5-15 or Foliage Pro 9-3-6 because they supply the NPK nutrients in the proper ratio of 5-1-3 required by citrus. (The foliage Pro has a ratio that is close enough. I live in the Northeast and never painted my tree trunks. They have never shown damage. To me, root pruning means removing soil along the side and bottom or cutting wedges out of the root ball. I would not root prune because that might kill the tree. Remove it from its pot and only cut off all circling roots.