Citrus tree dying... Not sure if it's a disease or something else?
levi774 .
6 years ago
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6 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Citrus Trees and Apple Tree Diseased??
Comments (16)Okay I got the response from the local extension office and here is the diagnosis: "The pictures of actual fruit are showing symptoms of bird damage. Grackles and Starlings will visit the fruit when about the size of a dime and peck, scratch and scar the fruit to cover themselves with citrus oil which serves as a mite repellent. Unless you cover the tree at that time of the year with a bird netting, there is not much you can do. See: http://www.plantanswers.com/citrus_damaged.htm . The brown spots on your apple leaves are caused by a fungus of some sort. Most any fruit tree can be sprayed with Captan fungicide solution. Follow the label directions. Also, even some of the healthy leaves are yellowing, which indicates nutrient deficiency. Several things can cause the symptoms: 1) lack of enough nutrients in the soil; or 2) a root system that is not pulling in the available nutrients because of drought stress, too much water, and competition from weeds/turf grass. Even the fungal spots on the leaves may be worsened by a nutrient-stress issue. First, you may want to check the soil pH and nutrient level by submitting a soil test. Second, remove all weeds/turf grass 18" to 24" out from the main trunk and apply a light layer of an organic mulch such as leaves, dried grass clipping (from grass that hasn�t been sprayed with a broad-leaf weed killer). Third, monitor soil moisture to make sure that the trees are not too dry, nor too wet. Also, dried leaves on a living stem is a good indication of soil/moisture stress. Dried/dead leaves on a dead stem may indicate a canker or gall or wood boring beetle issue. Call my office at 281-342-3034, and ask for ext. 7029 for a soil test bag and form. -Vincent Mannino" The link to the pictures still works if you want a visual summary of my issues. Thanks for the advice.......See MoreFirst U.S. Detection of Citrus Tree Disease in Florida
Comments (30). . . . "Host Plant Resistance Although there is no real resistance in Citrus spp. to citrus greening disease, some species and cultivars are somewhat tolerant. Koizumi et al. (1993) did extensive field surveys showing that some cultivars were less susceptible to decline than others. Most of the sweet orange trees became infected with the pathogen and subsequently declined, while grapefruit was more tolerant. In general, sweet oranges, mandarins and tangelos are most susceptible, grapefruit and lemon are more resistant, and limes, Poncirus trifoliata and citranges are the most tolerant (Lee 1996). Cultural Control Management of citrus greening in areas where the disease is endemic depends largely upon cultural control. Infected limbs and trees should be removed as symptoms appear. The pathogen apparently moves fairly slowly within the plant after infection, so severe pruning can be helpful. For African greening, Buitendag & von Broembsen (1993) make the following recommendations: If the infected tree is 5 years old or less, remove the tree. If it is between 6 and 10 years, remove it if it is 75% infected; otherwise remove branches. If it is more than 10 years old, remove affected branches up to 40% of the tree. Do not plant young resets in old groves affected by greening. The tendency for suckers that sprout after pruning to be infected with greening depends upon the diameter of the branches. Branches 10-19 mm in diameter grew no suckers. Among branches 20 mm in diameter or more, the smallest ones were most likely to produce infected suckers (86% for branches 20-29 mm, as compared with 29% for those that were 40-60 mm) (van Vuuren 1993). Roistacher (1996) cited a Chinese program for rehabilitation of citrus in Fujian Province in which cultural control played a major part. Windbreaks were established to protect plants from psyllid vectors (although the efficacy of barriers for protection from a persistently transmitted pathogen is questionable). Trees were examined regularly for citrus greening disease, and all infected trees were immediately removed and replaced with healthy trees from a certified citrus stock program at the Fujian Academy of Agricultural Sciences (Ke & Xu 1990). In another Chinese program, part of the control program involved hand-removal of summer flush in high density citrus plantings following rice cultivation (Aubert 1990b). " Here is a link that might be useful: Some tolerances to citrus greening...See MoreGreasy Spot on my Tango? Something else?
Comments (8)I had never heard of edema before you mentioned it. The plant is in the gritty mix (should be no issues with over-watering) and it is near a window in a basement. There is an 8-light T5HO fixture directly above it (leaves nearly touching) and the air temp when lights are on in the room is pushing 85 degrees. It does, I'm sure, get much colder at night - possibly down into the mid 60s I would have to check to be sure. There is a fan in the room but the Tango is not getting the brunt of the air movement. I can try increasing air flow and see what happens. Do you have any other suggestions for fighting edema? Is it possible that the neem spray I gave everything before bringing them in is causing reduced transpiration which is causing the edema? The leaves feel smooth to the touch to me - they don't feel bumpy. I see the little bumps that I think you are referring to - those are not the spots that were concerning to me but do the bumps turn into the spots? The photographs at http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/edema3.shtml look pretty close to what I have - certainly the leaves that fell off had the brown water-logged situation going on.....See MoreNeed help with my dying/diseased Trees & Shrubs
Comments (21)Did you ever find out what this was? I was search for the same thing and came across your post. We have several similarities coincidentally. (see pics) We just moved into our first home East of Plano in the Dallas area. The beds in the front of the house are new and were put in by the seller to give the house curb appeal. Shortly after moving in the crepe myrtle turned back, quit growing leaves and powdery white spots appeared all over it. The landscaper we found on NextDoor said fungus and pulled it out and that's when he covered everything in the red mulch. He also moved all the boxwoods and magnolia a foot forward because they were a few inches from the foundation. Later in November he pulled the magnolia tree because it was too close to the house and said they are known to have invasive roots. It had also dropped most of its leaves. The above pictures are how it looked at the beginning of November. Here are a few from today... Since then the boxwoods have all turned from green to dark red. I am worried I am going to have to yank these too. We have a RainBird sprinkler system but do not plan to use it much so I am thinking we might just need to replace them with native Texas plants that are drought tolerant, but I am worried about the existing issue. Especially if it is fungal related. Does this mean that my soil has fungus in it and will affect everything I plant in it? Could the mulch have caused this as this seems to be when the decline started? Also, the magnolia tree was sitting on top of a root the size of a mans leg. It was directionally going toward the house. Should I cut this so it quits growing? Have I wrecked my beds? Please help!...See Morecory (Zone 7a, NJ)
6 years agolevi774 .
6 years agocory (Zone 7a, NJ)
6 years agolevi774 .
6 years ago
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