I'd go with epoxy. Much easier to broom or even spray clean, and you won't need to worry about staining, or an oil leak dripping into seams. If you ever needed to re-coat the floor -- maybe in 8-10 years if you think it looks worn -- epoxy would also be easy to renew: it generally just requires a light sanding and re-application with a roller. Lastly, it would probably cost about 1/2 as much to do epoxy as install tiles. Here is a link that might be useful: Cost to Epoxy Garage Floor

I work with an urban infill builder here in the Tampa Bay area - builds ones or twos or four, eight - biggest one is 15 homes. Very different from the "national" builders; not huge subdivisions with hundreds of homes, so not sure how it compares. Their business model is about the customer experience, areas that are up-and-coming (not the established areas that most cannot afford), quality programmed construction. By that I mean they build the homes typically in 120 days from permit to COO by following a phased program which means, for example, they are ordering the cabinets when the footer is poured so that they arrive on time to be installed - no waiting on materials. The base level home is much higher than the standard big builder base home. They build to a higher spec so that if they don't have a buyer by the time the home is completed, there is still a nice, semi-custom home for sale, not one where a buyer walks in and says, "this is nice, but...." There is a page in the contract which states all the base level features. Most of the homes have a landscaping package which is already included in the sale price. Also, we go over the things that are not included: refrigerator, ceiling fans (although they will pre-wire), coach lights (although they are pre-wired), towel rods, toilet paper holders, etc. It's mostly things that are highly personal and they just can't offer the huge selection that people want. We also offer a $5000 incentive for using the preferred lender. Using them is so much easier than other lenders that don't necessarily understand new construction, won't secure the rate for 120+ days, don't know when to order the appraisal, etc. It's well worth it for the builder because from what I've seen, all the outside lenders have been exceedingly difficult (these are mortgages, not construction loans). If the buyers find a better rate and terms, they usually can match it, but it rarely happens, to be honest. After the builders contract is ratified, the buyers make an appointment to the design center where they choose finishes. Depending on what stage the build is, they may have fewer and fewer choices, obviously. As the home is finishing each stage without a buyer, the designer is going in and spec-ing the home. So the home that is finishing next week, pretty much only add-ons such as blinds, garage door openers, maybe a fence. The upgrades are all pretty reasonable IMO. For example, it's about $2200 for all the blinds in a 2900+sf house installed. Cabinet upgrade in the kitchen only is about $2300. It's about $800 for interior paint colors (standard is white) in the same house. Wood flooring on the bottom floor is about $4500. $1800 to put in a frameless shower. I usually recommend that they hold off on stuff they can easily do later, such as a backsplash, lights, stuff like that, because it can add up very quickly when you see all the cool stuff that you can add to your new home - one couple recently accidentally added $25K in upgrades - sort of got carried away choosing the top end everything. The buyers get four inspections with the construction manager throughout the build. The best one is pre-drywall where you can take pictures of everything before the drywall covers it up. May come in handy 10 years from now when you want to remodel something. They have the typical 1-2-10 warranty. As the homes near completion without a buyer, the incentives are often increased. Right now we're adding $5000 generally to homes when they pass the drywall stage with no contract. Nearly all of our homes close with equity by the time they are completed, but that is partly because of the business model and where they are building. Their homes elevate the prices all around the neighborhood. Unfortunately, in at least one of the neighborhoods where they've been building for several years, this effect is starting to price out the very buyers that they were building for. So I hope this perspective helps you decide what to do. I'd be glad to answer any questions.

The practical definition of a Juliet balcony is a deck that doesn't have a platform, only guard railings. The code interpretation issue is whether or not the exception to R311.3 that allows a landing less than 36" in the direction of travel is satisfied with a dimension of 0". The next question is what dimension would be allowed (2", 4", 6" etc.) I suspect you will find that your contractor knows what he is talking about. You won't be the first person to ask the building department for an interpretation of the exception to R311.3 and you may be successful but the only thing that is certain is that they cannot refuse the 4x6 deck the contractor proposed and they might accept brackets down to the existing foundation that would avoid foundation piers. They might also accept a 3x3 deck. The biggest waste of money would be the construction of two foundation piers that would later be abandoned. Ask your contractor if brackets to the foundation would reduce the cost of a 4x6 deck. If so, that might be the best solution. The contractor's offer to install the ledger board is a sign of good faith. Make sure it is through-bolted and properly flashed according to the new more strict code requirements added to the IRC after so many fatal deck failures. I recommend Grace Vycor Plus under the building wrap and over the top of the pressure treated ledger board and that should be protected with metal flashing (no unfinished aluminum). Metal flashings do not weather well when in constant contact with water on top of a ledger board so the vycor will prevent water intrusion when the metal flashing inevitably fails. the metal is essentially protecting the Vycor from UV rays. I stopped using ledger boards 40 years ago even for decks close to the ground. I always use Maine Deck Brackets.

"I like every single thing about this plan." That opinion may be based upon lack of understanding of what the drawings show. I avoid: Designs that do not relate to the site. Closets where hanging clothes turn corners. Windowless walk-in closets. Kitchens with overly large work triangle. Large expanses of exterior wall without windows. Walk-in closets that will be difficult to walk into. Hallways less than four feet wide. Stairs less than 3'-6" wide. Freestanding tubs that do not have sufficient space to clean around. Powder room off main entry A powder room where you can sit in and carry on a conversation with someone in the living room and have visual contact with. Powder room window that opens to a front entry porch. Master bathrooms with little counter space. Bathtub/shower with a window. Closets with doors that insufficiently provide full access to the closet's content. Dimension that go to the center line of walls. to name a few.